KE100 starts, but can't get the front fork apart!

[MarJay]

Hi Gentlemen,

I've managed to get the KE100 to start, I simply replaced the spark plug and all is good.

I still have no battery connected however.

My main concern has now moved to the fork legs however. I have been trying for a couple of days to part the stanchion from the fork leg lower. According to the Haynes manual, once the spring, top cap and oil are removed, you should just be able to pull the stanchion out from the lower. However, I have been frustrated so far.

G tried to pull the stanchion out too, and we even tried pulling it like a huge cracker. There is no bolt on the bottom of the leg, it just has the spindle hole welded on, as a piece of tube. There are no ways for it to come apart, as the end cap is also welded on.

So, I can surmise then that the Haynes manual is correct, and the damping consists of the spring floating in oil, but I can't get the stanchion out!

I need to change the fork seal as they are leaking heavily. I have also tried drilling a hole in the seal and pulling at it with a screwdriver and other tools. No luck.

Any thoughts on this?
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[finpos]

Have you looked down the now empty stanction to see if there is a bolt or something down there in the gloom?

finpos.

[MarJay]

[cagiva gezzer]

No Cir-clip holding the seal in place? No bolt / allen key hidden in the depths of fork leg ?
____________________
"because one stroke isnt enough and four strokes waste two"

[Timmeh]

Bit of an aside, but it wouldn't be the first time a Haynes manual isn't quite correct. According to my manual, my '95 CBR should have one type of front fork; but it hasn't. I spoke to the people who work at Chiswick Honda and they say that type of suspension was only added to the '97 models and onwards.

Take what you say with a pinch of salt, and in my experience you should always back up your Haynes with a proper service manual for your exact make and model.


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GSXR400 x2 | '94 RVF400 | '93 TZR125 4DL (again)
20:22:30 BLUEX5: i would love to be forced to undergo a**l plugging with different sizes
20:48:18 Temeluchus: comp you hunk of smouldering homos3x you

[MarJay]

Well the suspense is over.

I got the fork apart and the Haynes manual was quite correct; I drilled a small hole in the fork seal and then it came out using 'slide hammer action'.

There is a damper rod in the bottom, but the stanchion has nothing at the bottom to hold the damper rod. Its just a rod the shape of a needle valve and must work by forcing the oil past the rim of the valve and the inside of the stanchion. Its basic, but hopefully effective.

I now need to do the other leg, and I'm laughing!
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[hmmmnz]

lol, good stuff,
bless haynes
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[Vin]

So when in use what holds the fork lower in place.
Am I being thick? Can anyone enlighten me?

[Finglonga]

[G]

There was a circlip and washer over the fork seal (or so I'd guess, they were gone when I saw it.)

[MarJay]