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Is it possible to recover plugs that have been oiled?

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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Is it possible to recover plugs that have been oiled? Reply with quote

Hello,

I've got a small issue with my KE100. I used a small amount of choke and oiled another plug. This is the second time it has happened in as many weeks.

This means that I have two plugs which no longer spark.

Is there any way I can fix 'em? otherwise this bike's running costs may be rather high, and I might have to carry the worlds supply of B8ES 's.


Thanks,

Mark.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cook 'em on the gas stove. Line them up on the centre so that the earth-strap is poking out above one of the flames and get ot glowing a dull red. Might make the kitchen smell funny Smile

Using choke shouldn't cause plug-oiling though. You should try to cure the problem rather than the symptom.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
Cook 'em on the gas stove. Line them up on the centre so that the earth-strap is poking out above one of the flames and get ot glowing a dull red. Might make the kitchen smell funny Smile

Using choke shouldn't cause plug-oiling though. You should try to cure the problem rather than the symptom.


What would be the cure? Smile
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if you're oiling the plug it's either getting too much 2-stroke oil in the mix or drawing gearbox oil in through the main bearing seal. Is it run on pre-mix fuel or oiled by the autolube pump?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
Well if you're oiling the plug it's either getting too much 2-stroke oil in the mix or drawing gearbox oil in through the main bearing seal. Is it run on pre-mix fuel or oiled by the autolube pump?


AUtolube, and the gearbox oil is OK. It hasn't lost any gearbox oil as far as I can tell.

It does pour oil out of the exhaust... and it smokes like a crazything...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case you should notice it using a lot of 2-stroke oil.

Most autolube systems have a mark that you line up on full throttle. Look at the cable quadrant on the autolube pump, there should be a line or a notch. Open the throttle fully and watch the quadrant turn - you'll most likely see the mark on the quadrant go past another mark on the pump housing on full throttle. You must adjust the oil-pump cable until the marks line up.

If you're not sure post a photo of the oil pump.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also check the cable for perfectly free operation especially if it has a splitter device half way down. If the cable-end has got caught-up inside the splitter, it might not be sitting down in the locating hole, and that could be opening the pump too much. If you adjust it to turn the oil supply down and it goes back how it was you'll starve your engine of oil. Check it carefully.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
In that case you should notice it using a lot of 2-stroke oil.

Most autolube systems have a mark that you line up on full throttle. Look at the cable quadrant on the autolube pump, there should be a line or a notch. Open the throttle fully and watch the quadrant turn - you'll most likely see the mark on the quadrant go past another mark on the pump housing on full throttle. You must adjust the oil-pump cable until the marks line up.

If you're not sure post a photo of the oil pump.


Its not using excessive amounts of 2t oil... but I haven't ridden it anywhere other than around my car park. This is because I've only just managed to get it to a MOTable condition. The main reason I asked about cleaning plugs is that the MOT is booked for tuesday and I now have no spares and am slightly worried about getting stranded.

I can sort the oil pump because I have a Haynes manual and I've got the bike this far... (incidentally the Haynes says the marks have to be lined up on a closed throttle with no slack in the cable)

I didn't want to dismantle the bike this weekend as I want it to pass an MOT Laughing but it looks like an easy job so I'll have a crack at it tomorrow. The carbs and pump are hidden behind a cover on the left hand side of the engine.

Another point which might be worth noting is that the bike had been on its side the whole journey from Lincoln to Reading when Jay12329 very kindly chucked it in the back of his focus to bring it to me.

Oil was coming out of the exhaust then too...

Either way I'll have a look at the pump tomorrow. I might change the gearbox oil too in case it has got thin and is seeping past the crank seal or something. Probably unlikely but I've got the oil and was meaning to do it anyway.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would take very little gearbox oil getting past to cause a massive amount of smoke. If the pump is set right, you're gonna have to split the cases and fit new main bearings and seals. Not as daunting as it sounds but will cost around 50-quid or so all-up.
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finpos
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a hotter plug. Chuck the oiled ones in the bin Smile

I think that bike has a really primitive diaphragm pump which squirts oil in when you twist the throttle: i.e. not the more clever kind which run constantly (pump off the engine) and then the throttle position meters how much oil gets through.

finpos.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
I haven't ridden it anywhere other than around my car park.


Once it gets some decent runs it'll be fine. Agree with the gas stove though. It's the only way my bike will start after its winter slumber.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its only done 5,000 miles (according to the speedo)

So should the crank seals need replacing?

The gearbox is one of the smoothest I've used on any bike... I'm not certain that it is burning gearbox oil.

I'll check the pump tomorrow, and buy a hotter plug. Smile
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
Does the gearbox oil smell at all of petrol? That's the best way to detect a knackered primary drive crank seal (along with the oil level dropping). At 5000 miles it's unlikely to of failed, but if the bike has been stood they can fail on startup. As above a fresh plug and decent run will do it the world of good too.


Will check the gearbox oil tomorrow. Cheers BlueX5 thats the second time in as many weeks that you've helped me! Very Happy

Also thanks to Finpos and everyone else who has replied to my inane 100cc prattle.

Now, hopefully final question for this thread. I assume a BR9ES is a hotter plug than a BR8ES (NGK)?

{Actually I think I might have that the wrong way round... if someone could confirm /edit]
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irving
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

>>

Last edited by irving on 20:33 - 18 Mar 2007; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

No a 9 is cooler, a BR7ES would be hotter.

I have also given them a good wire brush then a scoosh of carb cleaner which seems to get them back.

Make sure you have set the plug gap correctly.

It is quite possible there is a load of ming* hanging about in the bottom of the crankcases which is what is oiling up your plugs. Once it gets a good, flat-oot run it'll burn it all off and sort itself out.

What you'll probably find is when you first take it out on the road it'll stutter, bog and refuse to rev over a certain point when you first try to open the throttle. Hold the throttle at the position where it does this (so you aren't over-oiling it). It will eventually go stutter, stutter, cough, stutter, cough, COUGH! Then it will squat down and take-off. If you look behind you at this point you'll see a pall of blue smoke, on a still day it may even be swirling round in a perfect spiral in your wake. This is your engine expelling the ming.

* A technical term for the sludge of unbruned 2-stroke oil and coke to be found in the crankcases and exhausts of air cooled 2-strokes that have been sat for a while.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I happen to have a couple of plugs lying about which were for my Mazda MX3.

Due to a sordid conspiracy between the Mazda car company and the spark plug manufacturers, it is impossible to buy spark plugs in packs of six, despite my old car having six cylinders.

The plugs match the pitch of thread and the depth and the diameter perfectly but they are Bosch and so do not use the same numbering scheme as NGK.

I've just looked up the NGK equivalent and its a BKR5E. Which is identical apart from the temperature and a smaller hex bit for use with a smaller plug spanner.

And of course the temperature... its a lot hotter. I'm assuming that I'll hole a piston with that plug? That is of course if the Bosch plugs are the same temp as the NGK ones...
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try www.sparkplugs.co.uk

There is a parts lookup on your car make and model, they sell all different makes.

I used them once, the plugs were good and cheap and they arrived next day.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.autopartsfair.com/volvo-engine_parts/more-engine_electrical.html

Hmm. This site says the Motorcycle equivalent of a BKR5E is a BR8EG...

thats weird! Laughing
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 19 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The gearbox oil does smell of petrol.

The Oil pump is correctly calibrated.

I'm hoping that the crankcases are just full of ming as stinkwheel suggests, else I'm going to have to fit a new crank seal. Sad
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 19 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
It would take very little gearbox oil getting past to cause a massive amount of smoke. If the pump is set right, you're gonna have to split the cases and fit new main bearings and seals. Not as daunting as it sounds but will cost around 50-quid or so all-up.


Is that fifty quid if I get a garage to do it, or fifty quid for parts if I do it?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 19 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
It's disc valve isn't it????....Bugger....plenty of places for oil and petrol to share the wealth other than the crank seal. Luckily you should be able to change the crankseals and and o-rings without splittling the casings. I had an old suzuki A100 and never properly cured the ingress of gearbox oil into the induction mix....what a twat that thing was.


Well i'm going to check the gearbox oil level tonight, ride it to the MOT place tomorrow... and back hopefully, then change the gearbox oil.

Hopefully this would have cleared the ming ((C)Stinkwheel 2007) from the crankcase.
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