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Xs 250 dies after a run out.

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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Xs 250 dies after a run out. Reply with quote

Our Xs250 dies after a run out, well in fact it dies if you stop it (I meen it doesant start again ) Ok so we did 30 miles on it with the tick over turned up a bit so it wouldant stop(my dad has a tendancey to stall the bike at junctions lol ) , It was fine when runing, As soon as the engine is shut off it just wont start till the next day. I think it could be:
1. the coils braking down.
2.sompthing to do with the points.
3. sompthing electrical ?

^Any advice would be apriceated^

Also I did a compresion test ( because I found our mislayed compresion tester) And the right cyinder is loseing compresion so I take it the piston rings have gone on that side ?
the left is fine.

^any advice would I would be grate full of^

Also were could I get a set of piston rings if it is them ? and how much do you think it could be ?

plz note i couldant get the spell checker to work just now so dont have a go at me !
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 17 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats a thought I havent even looked at the valve clearances.
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Dalemac
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

sompthing = something Thumbs Up
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any help with the problem ? no ? didant think so.
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Dalemac
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PostPosted: 01:30 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes. i helped with your grammar problem.
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 01:34 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you say so, right now go away unless you can help with the problem with the bike.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 01:43 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie stokes wrote:
if you say so, right now go away unless you can help with the problem with the bike.


jamie stokes wrote:
https://www.grineflip.dk/pics/animated/oeffe2.gif


What the hell has this got to do with a rusty chain?

If the bike runs fine, but wont fire once stalled and stationary sounds a little strange to say the least. Unless, when youe dad stalles the bike, he hits the kill switch?

If its an electrial problem then I dont see how it runs unhindered for 30 miles. The fact that you state that it will fire after leaving it for a short period of time does nt sound electrial. Electrical problems do not just go away if you leave them.

Would a air leak / vacuum problem or fuel starvation cause the inability to start again?

Maybe the idle is adjusted wrong or the points need tweaking?
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Dalemac
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PostPosted: 02:03 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie stokes wrote:
Any help with the problem ? no ? didant think so.


well, stop being cocky to me and i will stop being cocky with you.

Everything in life works 2 ways pal.
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WavyGravy
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

the bad hot starting might be down to something expanding when hot and settling back when it cools down, could be anything in the electrics, check the connectors that carry current when the engines running, if its points ignition check the condensor, try fresh plugs, has the bike got the correct plug caps fitted? avoid temptation to buy new rectifier etc until youve really established where the problem lies, it only makes spares suppliers rich.

low compression could be the rings, or the valves not seated properly, or worn valve stems/guides or missing valve stem oil seal (if it has them). it doesnt cost anything to loosen off the tappets and redo the compression check, might just be a tappet is too tight.


The problems could be linked, what's the condition of the plugs? oiled up?


just some ideas
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finpos
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go for a new condensor first.

finpos.
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think this may be a common thing with these bikes, the XS250 we used to have did exactly the same thing. We could run it for so long (I was learning on it at the time so it was mostly 1st-3rd gear stuff on a car park) then once it got to a certain temp it just wouldn't re-start.

Himself reckons it was because the fuel was vapour-locking.

We certainly didn't have to wait til the next day to get it going, it usually took about a 10-15 minute wait for it to cool off a bit and then a BIG handful of throttle as you pushed the starter button next.

If that's what is wrong with yours too there isn't really a lot you can do about it except wait for it to cool off.
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's some quite detailed stuff about the cause and effect of vapour lock on Wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapour_lock

It's not so common in modern engines apparently, but was still quite rife when your XS250 would have been built!

wikipedia wrote:
Vapor lock was far more common in older petrol fuel systems incorporating a low-pressure mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine, located in the engine compartment and feeding a carburetor. Such pumps were typically located higher than the fuel tank, were directly heated by the engine and fed fuel directly to the float tank inside the carburetor. Fuel was drawn under negative pressure from the feed line, increasing the risk of a vapor lock developing between the tank and pump. A vapor lock being drawn into the fuel pump could disrupt the fuel pressure long enough for the float chamber in the carburetor to partially or completely drain, causing fuel starvation in the engine. Even temporary disruption of fuel supply into the float chamber is not ideal; most carburetors are designed to run at a fixed level of petrol in the float chamber and reducing the level will reduce the air:fuel mixture delivered.

Carburetor units may not effectively deal with fuel vapor being delivered to the float chamber. Most designs incorporate a pressure balance duct linking the top of the float chamber with either the intake to the carburetor or the outside air. Even if the pump can handle vapor locks effectively, fuel vapor entering the float chamber has to be vented. If this is done via the intake system, the mixture is, in-effect, enriched, creating a mixture control and pollution issue. If it is done by venting to the outside, the result is direct hydrocarbon pollution and an effective loss of fuel efficiency and possibly a petrol odor problem. For this reason, some fuel delivery systems allow fuel vapor to be returned to the fuel tank to be condensed back to the liquid phase. This is usually implemented by removing fuel vapor from the fuel line near the engine rather than from the float chamber. Such a system may also divert excess fuel pressure from the pump back to the tank.

Most modern engines are equipped with fuel injection, and have a high pressure electric fuel pump in the fuel tank. Moving the fuel pump to the interior of the tank helps prevent vapor lock, since the entire fuel delivery system is under high pressure and the fuel pump runs cooler than if it is located in the engine compartment. This is the primary reason that vapor lock is rare in modern fuel systems. For the same reason, some carbureted engines are retrofitted with an electric fuel pump near the fuel tank.

Other solutions to vapor lock are rerouting of the fuel lines away from heat generating components, installation of a fuel cooler or cool can, shielding of heat generating components near fuel lines, and insulation of fuel lines.

A vapor lock is more likely to develop when the vehicle is in traffic because the under-hood temperature tends to rise. A vapor lock can also develop when the engine is stopped while hot and the vehicle is parked for a short period. The fuel in the line near the engine does not move and can thus heat up sufficiently to form a vapor lock. The problem is more likely in hot weather or high altitude in either case.

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yambabe
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

He also says check the valve clearances cos they may be too tight.

Apparently the main problems with these bikes is to actually set the ignition timing properly. Although it's a points system so fairly simple you have to make sure the cylinders are running the same or the bike will never run right. He says, and i quote, "Getting the advance and retard set up correctly is a real bastard, you have to do it one cylinder at a time".

One last thing, your dad turning the idle up could actually be contributing to the not-starting problem as it may be flooding the engine once it gets hot.

He says check and clean your float bowls too, that may help.
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Gradog
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 18 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Finpos has suggested, the condensor would be the first place to check, re the restarting, and as far as compression, the XS was always prone to valve problems, and needed careful setting up. It was one of those bikes that you can tell if it is right by the murmor of the valves, getting louder meant they were coming loose again, but almost no noise and they were over adjusted. I used to have to loctite the valve locking nuts to keep maintanance down.
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 23 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

hello, i think i have sorted it ( one of the points wasent opening all the time, only some times ) but got a new problem after playing with the air/fuel mixture screw (i have a new thread on it called can some one help me in the workshop section)
cheers
jamie stokes
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 23 Feb 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is a link to the new problem


https://bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=107618
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