Carb adjuster

[mr.z]

Got yourself a vacuum gauge, great! lets balance them carbs, oh dear, it seems to have been designed by somebody with the hands of a tiny weasel and as such are completely inaccessible..

What you'll be faced with (probably, if its a honda or using kehien carbs) is a small locknut and a flat screw, the trick is to tun the screw and tighten the lock without upsetting the balance, on mine at least its nigh on impossible.

What you will need..

1 Rod of steel/copper/brass*
1 Copper pipe into which the rod will slide freely (available from car spares shops)
An 8mm socket, 3/8ths, also check your rod passes through the middle of it.. (for kehien carbs on the cx at least, check yours, i'd imagine it common beteween hondas and others though)
2 Part araldite (other stuff my work)
Hacksaw
Pliers
A flat file


First off get your copper pipe and cut one end and fold the edges back arround, your aiming to get your 8mm socket over it so its fairly tight, when your happy its snug pull it back out and load it with your 2part araldite, carefull to keep it reasonably straight, araldite when dry is pretty damn strong, easy enough to resist the forces involved here.

After a few hours you should have something looking like this..

https://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~noriba74/images/bike/ca/IMG_1115.jpg

Now for the rod.. Get ready to do some filling.. go at the end of the rod till you have a nice flat screwdriver shape, check it fits nicely into the slot on the carbs (I'll get the micrometer out and check it at some point for the size, fitting it just right will make it easier to use)

https://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~noriba74/images/bike/ca/IMG_1114.jpg

After than bend one end so you have some leverage, and with the copper tube make a cut again down the other end, the aim is to make a sort of handle, with some pliers and patience its fairly straightforward, its a good idea to put some tape on so you don't mangle your hand everytime you use it.. (anyone with a welder could simply weld and arm to it, that goes for the socket part too mind, tak welding even i'd have thought would be enough for both)

You should have something looking like this, or less messy.. but it works and cost a total of £2 (for the socket and for the tube)

https://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~noriba74/images/bike/ca/IMG_1118.jpg


(propper tools can be got for £15-20 or so, but when you can bastardise your own for almost nothing why bother..)

*If your lucky enough to have a long shafted screwdriver with a flat end small enough to fit down the tube then great! use that and save much time fileing

**Although you can get the locknut fairly tight I'd recommend torquing it up and maybe even a dab of locktite, otherwise you'll need to do it again in no time..
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[mr.z]

Just thought I'd say it works nicely, and if possible use stainless tube maybe, since copper smells
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[Kal]

I'm going to come back to this because the Carbs on the CX are a complete b!tch to deal with, and Bomber gets unhappy with me if I take the Trike down to Lesters.
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Kal...
I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It Ya Like To (HOON IT!).
1984 GB250 Clubman,1983 CB250N Superdream, 1999 GPZ500S

[Odie]

Your talking out your arse again chris , i have just the tool, you know this as you have used it and it cost £4.95
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You are so ugly when you were born the doctor said "I?m gonna drop it, if it falls is a rat, if it flies is a bat."