Spraying fairing help.

[Misc]

My left fairing on the bike has a few scuffs & would like to repaint those parts & have a few questions if i may,

-Firstly, are there any good step by steps ont he web as i can't seem to find any.

-Will i have to respray the whole fairing for it to look right, i just wanted to touch up a few parts (quite big scratches) but the touch-up paint looks untidy & would like an smooth finish.

-Will it be best to use these air guns i hear about, does it have to be a decent one, what type would you say on budget?

-last but not least, the fairing is from a 2003 Ninja b1 green, but i recently got 2 touch up bottles (Kawasaki green) & neither were the right shade, how can i find the exact colour of my bike & where can i get the paint, & what paint goes in the air gun.

Went on for a bit,

Cheers.

[ZRX61]

If you're near Southampton my step brother could mix up the right shade & stick it in rattle cans.... or (far better) just mix up the right shade for use with the correct equipment...
& he had a couple of Kaw's so he knows what the colour is supposed to be...

[Misc]

Cheers mate but i'm in London which is a bit of journey.

[Jamie S]

Hi, I have sprayed all the paint on my Ariel that im restoring and it looks super nice.

Use a compressor and a spray gun, airosols (sp?) are crappppppp.

Get the paint from your local paint shop, take them a pannel in and they will colour match it up to an an accuracy of 99.8%

For it to go in the spray gun you thin it ,use the most expensive thinners you can find if you want a good finish

You thin it down by 50% , so 1 part paint is mixed to 1 part thinners.

All the usual spraying rules apply , 3 primer coats with (wet) wet and dry rub down between them , 2 top coats with your finish colour , then 2 coats of clear laquear

hope this helps ?
cheers
jamie
any questions just ask

[-Savage-]

i sprayed my fairing with plasticote aerosol spray cans, first remove decals with hot air gun (hairdryer) and a scalpel, then use rough sand paper to score the whole pannel, then finer paper until the scrapes are removed, and the whole panel is even in texture. then prime, fine sand, prime, fine sand etc, i did 3 coats of primer, and then (making sure they are WELL dry between coats) use your colour paint. (i used 4 coats of colour) sanding in between. i left mine matt, but afaik use a gloss sealer to get the shine back, use very fine paper to sand, until your using wet and dry, danding between coats as usual.

when spraying, spray very lightly, and TAKE YOUR TIME. too much paint in one go will run, and will make you have to sand for another hour (experience)

anyway, spray in a well ventelated area, wear a dust mask if you can when sanding, hang the pannels up if you can so you can spray all over without missing bits.

we want pics of progress lol

good luck.


____________________
My Bikes - - - Royal Enfield 500 with sidecar, VFR800, CBR600FX,
Peugeot Speedfight 100, Kymco Hipster 125, GSXR750K5, Jawa TS 350

[Jamie S]

[Misc]

Thanks guys, so will any paint shop be able to match was thinking of trying Halfords first?
Are there any specific wet & dry papers that i'll need as i've heard there are quite a few diffrent textures, & do you have any more info on the paint & thinner like how much of each or can it be any amount as long as it's half an half like you said?
I'm also looking for a gun on a budget.

Thanks once again.

[Jamie S]

[ZRX61]

[Misc]

Thanks alot!
One last thing, it's not the whole fairing that is scratched just in a few places it has scratches that are too big to touch up with a brush, so is it possible to sand those parts down like you said above & blend the new paint in with the old? Or will i need to sand the whole thing?

When i get the paint i'll post up the name so i'll know how much to mix then as this confuses me.

[Jamie S]

If it was metal then you could mop the paint yes, but plastic im not shure sorry ,it may be possible to mop it , but it may not tho

[ZRX61]

Hit the scratched bits with 220 dry, 320 dry, then 500 wet. scuff the rest of the fairing with 500 wet & spray all of it, if you attempt a blend it will look like shit & it's pointless doing a blend on such a small part anyway.

[-Savage-]

[gfiandy]

I read an article on re-spraying bikes for those with no experience. I can't find it anymore but the basis of it was. It works with paint from spray cans unlike most methods.

1.) Get the surface smooth with 500 wet and dry, fill any scratches that are too deep to sand out with a flexible filler. Sand untill completely smooth.

2. Prime leave t dry then wet and dry with 500 or 600 grade wet and dry paper. Wash the panel and let it dry completely to get all the dust off, repeat the prime.

3. 500 Wet and dry the surface untill it is completely smooth (and repeat the prime and sand again if its not smooth).

4. Wash the panel again, let it dry thoroughly

5. clean the panel down with a little meths on a rag to pick up any dust an dirt left over. Let this dry (shouldn't take very long)

6. Apply top coat in very thin coats, do NOT attempt to get the panel wet enough for the paint to form a smooth surface (It takes allot of skill to do this without ending up with paint runs) you can apply about 4 to 6 coats (very very thin) with 15 - 30 min gaps between each coat depending on weather.

7. leave it to dry overnight.

8. Sand with 500 wet and dry till smooth (try to avoid sanding through the paint). Clean as above.

9. Apply another 4 - 6 top coats very very thin. You should now have allot of paint which will probably be quite rough and not very shiny.

10. If the paint is very rough start with 500 wet and dry, only use this to take the worst off. Then use 1000 wet and dry till the paint is smooth and any orange peel effect has been removed. Then use 1200 or 1500 grade wet and dry to get the finnish as smooth as you can.

11. Use paint cutting compound to start to shine the paint, I did this by hand as I didn't trust myself with a machine but it takes a long time expect to take at least 1 to 2 hours (per panel).

12. Use t-cut to put the final shine on the paint again this takes along time by hand expect to spend about an hour on it.

13. You should now have a painted sshinneypanel. Wait for at least 2 days before putting it on the bike and preferably 2 weeks to let the paint harden properly. (other wise any stones or bugs etc will mark it straight away)

14. After 4 weeks you can apply polish.

You can use the method with lacer, if you do this you only need to get the lacer coat really really smooth the 500 wet and dry finish should be good enough for the colour coat. Personally I used just flat paint and achieved a very good aamateurfinish.

Basically you are trading allot of time for skill but you can achieve a very good effect if you are patient enough.

Regards,
Andrew
____________________
ANDY

[.....]

I'd just leave it in case you bin it and just mess the fairings up again.

Do the spraying when/if you intend to sell it.

[APNess]

To get decals off use a hair dryer as mentioned to warm up the stickers, but just use your nails to peel top lair of sticker off, won't cut into paint.

To get the sticky glue off underneath use a cloth/kitchen roll with cellulose thinners on it and just rub lightly - it will shift the sticky stuff no problem, then wash over with water to clear off the thinners. Don't scrape the glue off when using the thinners or you'll cut into paint undernath (OOPS been there) just persist with the cloth and rubbing, comes off in a few mins.

I was suggested panel wipe, white spirit, lots of hair dryer application, sanding, wd40, hell, my mate even tried nitromors on his (the numpty - here's a clue - unless you want plastic to melt, don't use nitromors)

Nothing beat cellulose thinners when it came to shifting the stickers.

[Misc]

I don't have many decals & these should come off easy.
Here's a few photos of the marks i want to spray over, as you can see there's no alot & i managed to touch the fairing up but would like it to be like new.
Also, the top fairing has some slight marks as you can see, how would you recommend spraying this as it's a bugger to remove & it's not that big?

Was told that no airgun on a tight budget is worth recommending?

https://img396.imageshack.us/img396/8769/63200325ql7.jpg
https://img481.imageshack.us/img481/6041/84450053vl0.jpg
https://img462.imageshack.us/img462/7505/s3700011bj7.jpg

[Jamie S]

[MattEMulsion]

[Piker]

for the paint if you have the code there is a shop in Barnsley called JS paints that will match and put in aerosols, also for graphics zebra signs also in barnsley do nearly anything you may want. Hope this helps

Piker

[Misc]

I'm gonna leave the lower fairing, i'll pick one up on ebay as it will save me buying the decals after respray which probably cost the same as the fairing anyway..

So that leaves me with the upper fairing & as you can see there's hardly any damage but would still like to make it look better, then there's my mudgaurd which will need the cracks filled up then sprayed.
https://img475.imageshack.us/img475/3316/image030iu2.jpg

[Jamie S]

you do know what to fill it with , right ?

[Misc]

Got some fibre glass repair stuff. Halfords also do some putty stuff which i'll use on the front.

[Jamie S]

Yep, thats the stuff , if that doesant work tho ( but it should) you can use isospoon(sp?) boddy filler.

[Misc]

Cheers,

And after that's all dry & sanded down to match the rest, do i need to apply primer as it's only maybe 5cm long, can i just use a couple of light layers of paint to match the rest of the mud guard?
Or give the whole thing a light spray over?