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Brake disc bolts

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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: [HELP!] Brake disc bolts Reply with quote

I'm trying to get the brake disc bolts loose on my Vmax. They do not want to budge at all. I use the professional allen keys etc from Halfords and no joy infact they almost break. I've soaked the bolts/surround area in wd40 over th elast few days...still no joy. I don't want to round these bolts as they'd be a right cnut to get out if that happened. Any suggestions ? :help: Question
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate when the garage fitted a disc for me they used a blowtorch on the bolts, I'm not sure how safe that is if you're using the same disc on reassembly so wait for someone else to back it up though Thumbs Up
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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I've heard heating them may help. But I haven't got access to a blow torch. I need to transfer the rear brake disc to my spare wheels or buy a rear brake disc that will fit a Vmax... anyone got one of these laying around Question
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iooi
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried a longer piece of tubing over the allen key for a bit more leverage ?
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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The allen key head just gets embedded in the bolt (or stuck) so I then have to reverse... I am using the correct size as it's a tight fit and I have a full set of metric and imperial keys...the metric ones fit snug... Thumbs Down

I had a suggestion of a few 'impacts' on the bolt head before I try again... dunno Confused
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Always seem to be a pain on Yamahas, although plenty of Yamahas use the same rear disk I think.

If they are causing a problem then use an impact driver. If the hex part is rounding off then you might well be reduced to cutting a slot in the head and trying again.

All the best

Keith
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G
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want to be heating the area which the bolt goes into or freeze the bold.

Hitting the head of the bolt can help 'free' the thread however it's locked and is worth a go.

Aldi had 'cooking' blow torches that can be used for this sort of thing - £8.99, but identical to ones I've seen in mechanics catalogues for over £20!

Personally, I'd just keep my eye on ebay for another rear disc if you can't get it sorted.
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dibs
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 31 Mar 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

you could always try a better penetrating oil like plus gas or tightening the bolt first if you already havnt
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 01 Apr 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disc bolts use red Loctite, WD40 etc won't penetrate past that stuff so it's a waste of time. Ya need heat.
Get a scrap/cheap allen wrench the correct size. Put it in the bolt head & heat directly on the wrench (so the flame is across the face of the disc, not towards it) & get it HOT!.
Remove cheapo wrench, replace with ya good one & the bolt will turn right out. Cool

Reason for cheap wrench it that the heat will destroy the tempering & turn it into marzipan if you try to turn it. Wink

That will be $20, the bill is in the mail. Thumbs Up
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Rumpelstiltsk...
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 01 Apr 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had the same problem many times.
Your only option and safest way is to use a blowtorch on the head of the bolts.
This process ''melts' off the loctite and the corrosion and the bolt then slowly turns off.
Any other method seems to either strip the thread in the wheel, Or shear the bolt, Leaving you with more hassle than nessesary.
Typical Yamaha problem, The bolts should have been stainless steel in the first place instead of the cheap soft crap they are made of.
Run a tap through the threads after the bolts are out, This cleans the thread and new bolts screw in easier and without damage.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 02:35 - 01 Apr 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rumpelstiltskin wrote:
Typical Yamaha problem, The bolts should have been stainless steel in the first place instead of the cheap soft crap they are made of.

They are grade 10.9, that's harder than A-2 Stainless...

in fact, even grade 8.8 is better than A-2 Stainless....

so Stainless actually IS the "soft crap" Smile
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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 01 Apr 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks people ... Will try out the advice given.

I have to agree though Mr Yamaerhaha seems to use shyte bolts. the brake flud res bolts are famous for rounding off... I think on my current Vmax I've used three sets of bolts already... I would avoid small s/s bolts if possible Thumbs Up
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GixerCol
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 01 Apr 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
Disc bolts use red Loctite, WD40 etc won't penetrate past that stuff so it's a waste of time. Ya need heat.
Get a scrap/cheap allen wrench the correct size. Put it in the bolt head & heat directly on the wrench (so the flame is across the face of the disc, not towards it) & get it HOT!.
Remove cheapo wrench, replace with ya good one & the bolt will turn right out. Cool

Reason for cheap wrench it that the heat will destroy the tempering & turn it into marzipan if you try to turn it.


Yep I would do the same the old transfer heat trick, after doing that if you can still get an impact drill on it after applying the heat then they should come stright out
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owdamer
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 01 Apr 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to grind 2 flats onto the disk bolts on my yam and use mole grips to remove them. Out of 18 bolts on 3 disks I think 8 had to be ground down. You should be replacing them anyway so dont worry about knackering them.
I replaced mine with stainless about 8 years ago, but that probably made the problem worse so I used oem yam ones when I replaced my disks last year.
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