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Ground Anchor Installers?

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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Ground Anchor Installers? Reply with quote

Do they exist?

I'd like to have someone come an install a ground anchor, professional jobby, do people do this?

Cheers,

T
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

make hole, fill with cement, put in anchor, let cement dry.

Sure somebody heres done it.. if you really must spend money then any builder will be able to do it
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, easy job. No excuse for not doing it yourself.
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-Savage-
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

how deep do you think the hole needs to be? i wouldnt mind putting one in my garage floor, but dont fanct renting out a kango.
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nick606
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

my dad made mine its quite good (hes a welder)


although im unsure on proper kits if you need to weld the bolts or not

edit: never mind my post is a bit useless as they are cemented in
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike's kept in my back yard (Rented house, but I will ask landlords permission)

I have a brick wall, and a paved floor though, so I'm not sure which one's the best, the wall doesn't look too healthy to be honest and surely they can just dig a paving slab up?

T
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feef
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

SavageKymco wrote:
how deep do you think the hole needs to be? i wouldnt mind putting one in my garage floor, but dont fanct renting out a kango.


read the instructions that come with your chosen anchor, as it'll be different for them all.

a
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Al
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you not just fit one of the ones that you bolt down.

like this- https://www.gear4bikes.com/images/abus/WBA100_2.jpg

Then you only need to drill a few holes.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:38 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr.z wrote:
make hole, fill with cement, put in anchor, let cement dry.

Sure somebody heres done it.. if you really must spend money then any builder will be able to do it


You'll be lucky.
Builders build when the weather is fine.
For a wee job like that at this time of year you would be expected to pay what they get for a couple of hours work onsite.

By a Hammer drill and do it your self.

Wear suitable clobber too whilst you are at it.
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divuk83
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just fit one yourself. Can be done with a hammer drill, though after killing my last one I would borrow/buy a cheap SDS drill. I have fitted one of the motrax ones (pictured below) , 2 oxford ones and 2 garage door defenders into solid concrete and it killed the chuck on my hammer drill!

I have fitted one into a fairly large (1mx1m) paving slab and its not been nicked yet (5 years later). The idea of security is to make it too much hassle for opportunist thieves to nick. Nothing is 100% secure against professional thieves. If someone is determined to nick it they will. A local guy had his MV nicked from his garage when thieves took out the back wall of his garage rather than going through all the locks/defenders on his door!

https://www.intobikes.co.uk/products?detail=product&id=000097&sg=OR&st=pt&pt=0120

https://www.intobikes.co.uk/images/spacer.gif

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fredsredhat
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

where abouts are you? I'll come and put in in for you if you're not too far.
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dainesefreak
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought this lot from Almax and hired a drill from HSS. The anchor even comes with it's own drill bit, took me about half an hour and that was drilling into solid concrete.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put in another ground anchor last week.

The bolts with the Oxford Ground Force are utter utter utter pants.

(A couple of years ago I put in my last one, same make it was fine).

The bolts that go in to the ground are now sort of 1 large part and 1 small part that sort of clicks in. However on pushing the bolt in to the hole the top fell (ie bit that pushes against sides) off and dropped 9cm down in to the ground.

Result absolute shite bolts,

We have some better ones at work ie they're all one unit. Its quite hard to explain, but the ones Oxford are supplying are now crxp.
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a concrete paved area, then prise up a slab, dig a hole, insert a ground anchor, fill said hole with concrete and float off to match the existing tiles. Concrete/ballast will cost no more than about £10 and should be a doddle to do.

Check with landlord first though!!
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 08 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I make all of my own ground anchors whether they be concreted in or bolt down ones. Okay they may not be 'thatcham approved' but they are fooking solid and up there with the best of the ones that you can buy off the shelf. I reckon to have perfected the technique to make a decent ground anchor and if any budding engineers want any advice then I will gladly reveal my methods.
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colin1
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

go on, tell me
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well basically get a piece of solid steel round tube approx 1" in diameter, heat it up with an oxy acetylene gun and bend it round a scaffold tube so that it forms a perfect U shape.

Then cut out a nice piece of thick steel flat plate the right size, I normally use plate around 8mm thick, put it into a pillar drill and drill two holes 1" in diameter so that you can fit your U shaped piece of tube through the steel plate. Then flip your plate over and countersink the back of the holes that you have just drilled, so they are slightly cone shaped on the back side.

Next align your U shaped tube through the flat plate so it is sitting dead square and weld the ends of the tube around the countersunk area of the flat plate on the backside. Grind off any excess so that the back is all level and you should now have your plate and U shaped tube as one piece.

Flip it back the right way round and now put two good welds right round each leg of the U shape where it goes through the flat plate. This will give it even more stability and security rather than just the welding done on the backside.

If it is to be concreted in then that is it, obviously you will need to have made your U shape long enough for it to stick out of the ground. If it is to be bolted in then your just need to drill four or six mounting holes to be able to bolt it down.

Here's a pic of an earlier prototype in primer:

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/mattemulsion/GA2.jpg
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KTM Gordo
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go for the Pragmasis Torc ground anchor - it is easy to fit: they supply a SDS drill bit for the job and a template so you put the holes in the right places.

There's also some phials of resin that you drop in to the holes first that glue the bolts in place.

It's made of the same stuff as the well known Almax chains, and it designed to work with them (they sell their own version of the Almax chain too - same stuff, different name).

HTH Smile
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Well basically get a piece of solid steel round tube approx 1" in diameter, heat it up with an oxy acetylene gun and bend it round a scaffold tube so that it forms a perfect U shape.

Then cut out a nice piece of thick steel flat plate the right size, I normally use plate around 8mm thick, put it into a pillar drill and drill two holes 1" in diameter so that you can fit your U shaped piece of tube through the steel plate. Then flip your plate over and countersink the back of the holes that you have just drilled, so they are slightly cone shaped on the back side.

Next align your U shaped tube through the flat plate so it is sitting dead square and weld the ends of the tube around the countersunk area of the flat plate on the backside. Grind off any excess so that the back is all level and you should now have your plate and U shaped tube as one piece.

Flip it back the right way round and now put two good welds right round each leg of the U shape where it goes through the flat plate. This will give it even more stability and security rather than just the welding done on the backside.

If it is to be concreted in then that is it, obviously you will need to have made your U shape long enough for it to stick out of the ground. If it is to be bolted in then your just need to drill four or six mounting holes to be able to bolt it down.

Here's a pic of an earlier prototype in primer:

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/mattemulsion/GA2.jpg


That looks brill. And dead cheap and simple to make.
How much is it for an oxy cutting set, a pillar drill and a welding machine? Mr. Green Karma
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt, its going to take a minute to hacksaw through that bar, you need to case harden it at least.

The couple I've made have both been different. The first was just a U tube concreted into the ground, came with its own hook to fish the chain through. Laughing Its been there, in a back garden in the middle of Birmingham, for six years at least and the guy has never had a problem.

The second, not perfect but better, two tubes, one inside the other, held apart by wheel bearings. You can cut through the first but the inner tube just spins. A guy at work suggested putting tar or something similar between the two pipes to jam up the blade or a grinder but I haven't tried it yet, I think it might stop the inner pipe turning.
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
Matt, its going to take a minute to hacksaw through that bar, you need to case harden it at least.


It'll take more than a minute to hacksaw through the bar, but it doesn't matter how good you make your ground anchor the whole security system is only as good as its weakest link.

For example we have seen how easy it is to crop these approved chains and a lot of people still use these 'easily' croppable chains. Also how many people actually chain their bike through the frame to a ground anchor? Not that many I would guess, a lot of people prefering to just put the chain through their wheel. If would be almost as easy and silent to just slide the wheel out and have the bike away in a van as it is to try cutting through chains or anchors.

Besides I would prefer my design to some of the ones that you can buy off the shelf anyway, such as ones like these:

https://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/mattemulsion/untitled.jpg
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
How much is it for an oxy cutting set, a pillar drill and a welding machine? Mr. Green Karma


Nothing, its called benefits of being able to expolit the workshop equipment whilst at work. Very Happy
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Walloper wrote:
How much is it for an oxy cutting set, a pillar drill and a welding machine? Mr. Green Karma


Nothing, its called benefits of being able to expolit the workshop equipment whilst at work. Very Happy


But isn't that sortof stealing? Embarassed
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Ichy wrote:
Matt, its going to take a minute to hacksaw through that bar, you need to case harden it at least.


It'll take more than a minute to hacksaw through the bar, but it doesn't matter how good you make your ground anchor the whole security system is only as good as its weakest link.


I stick by what I said, you can cut a 1" steel bar in a minute or less. I guess you would have to cut it twice though, your not likely to bend it.

The oxford brute force costs £4.99 but its still hardened, it makes a hell of a difference when you try to cut it. Try cutting a piece of carbon steel then heat it up and quench in water. Now try cutting it again.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 09 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
I stick by what I said, you can cut a 1" steel bar in a minute or less. I guess you would have to cut it twice though, your not likely to bend it.

The oxford brute force costs £4.99 but its still hardened, it makes a hell of a difference when you try to cut it. Try cutting a piece of carbon steel then heat it up and quench in water. Now try cutting it again.


I would just use my trusty 'Poundies' Fishing rod and magnet.
Poke it through your letter box.
Fish out the keys and your bike would be history.

No cutting only need to bite fising gut to the correct length. Laughing
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