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is it safe to ride 3 miles to work with one cylinder down?

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tony532
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: is it safe to ride 3 miles to work with one cylinder down? Reply with quote

hi all.

an engineer from work managed to get two new plugs into my honda hornet today (the far left and the far right one). after one cyclinder started misfiring in sunday.

he said the two middle ones are a pain in the arse to get to and didnt have short enough sockets on him and a lack of time as he drove out to my house on his lunch break.

question is.. in order to save him time tomorrow as he said he may need to bring the bike back in a van is it very harmful to the bike to ride it 3 miles with only 3 cylinders working properly?.

the bike will keep running with the choke on and a tiny amount of revs but will not idle.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably not a great idea really as the cylinder will still be getting filled with fuel.
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beans
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont do it, there will be unburnt fuel inside the bore and on the piston petrol is very good at washing away oil so you may effectivly end up running that cylinder dry. You may even hydraulic lock it if enough fuel gets in and doesnt burn. Saying that though its a Honda and it wouldnt really suprise me if you got away with it but dont risk it.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saying that I rode my GS 20 miles with a coil disconnected, but the difference is that I don't give a f**k if that goes bang.

T
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cestrian
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were you I'd.....

1. Start the engine and run it for a few seconds, make a mental note of the engine sound. Then.....

2. Remove plug cap No. 1 start the engine and listen. Does it run any worse? If it runs worse, then cylinder 1 is running OK. Stop the engine and replace the plug cap.

3. Remove plug cap No. 2 start the engine and listen. Again, if the engine runs worse, then cylinder No. 2 is running OK. Stop the engine and replace the plug cap.

4. Carry on testing with the other plug caps. You are obviously looking for the cylinder which (when the plug cap is removed) gives the same angine sound as in step 1. Ie ' Hey, this plug aint workin whether it's connected or not, so it must be f***ed'.

I'm sure you understand.

Regards


Last edited by cestrian on 16:17 - 21 Jun 2007; edited 1 time in total
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tony532
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

edit:- @cestrian

i cant remove the fuel tank on my own it's a major pain in the ass to get to the plugs on a hornet (at least to me) which is why i had to get an engineer from work to have a go today.

cheers advice taken on board.

me and a mate from work wheeled the back of the bike out of the house and fired her up.

i checked the pipes before coming from the cylinders and they were all hot!.

indicating i assume that all cylinders are firing to a degree.

i have just noticed that the fuel tap was still in the off position Embarassed .


i cant wheel the bike out of the house on my own now but even if i drag my mate back round later am i likely to see any difference when firing the bike up initialy even though there would have been fuel in the carbs before?.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd ride it. 3 miles isn't going to hurt it at all.
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owdamer
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you sure its the plugs and not just a lead thats shorting out?
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tony532
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

not sure owdamer until i get the last two plugs replaced.

hopefully find out tomorrow.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

cestrian wrote:
If I were you I'd.....

1. Start the engine and run it for a few seconds, make a mental note of the engine sound. Then.....

2. Remove plug cap No. 1 start the engine and listen. Does it run any worse? If it runs worse, then cylinder 1 is running OK. Stop the engine and replace the plug cap.

3. Remove plug cap No. 2 start the engine and listen. Again, if the engine runs worse, then cylinder No. 2 is running OK. Stop the engine and replace the plug cap.

4. Carry on testing with the other plug caps. You are obviously looking for the cylinder which (when the plug cap is removed) gives the same angine sound as in step 1. Ie ' Hey, this plug aint workin whether it's connected or not, so it must be f***ed'.

I'm sure you understand.

Regards


LOL!!!!

Or

1. Feel the pipes, the one that is cold is your non firing cylinder...

Rolling Eyes
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phantomtek
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd throw water on them to see which is hot instead of touching them, if you get it wrong its going to hurt.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

phantomtek wrote:
I'd throw water on them to see which is hot instead of touching them, if you get it wrong its going to hurt.


WARM water.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD40 is better.

Don't run your bike with spark-plug caps off though as you could well ruin the coil.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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tony532
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 21 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

i outsourced the job of checking the pipes to my mate by holding his hands on them and his cries of pain confirmed that they were indeed upto temperature!.

does this confirm that all cylinders are at least firing as they should do?.
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