Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


Anyone ever built a garage?

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> General Bike Chat
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:07 - 29 Jun 2007    Post subject: Anyone ever built a garage? Reply with quote

Anyone ever built a concrete garage?
I have one on order but no base laid yet.
How much would it cost for a base? Roughly.
I'm having a ball trying to get a couple of the lazy bstds to just lay a floor for me.
I hate builders.
They weren't bright at school and haven't improved with age either.

(If you are a builder and wish to quote please ignore that last wee joke... Embarassed Karma )
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

plugger147
World Chat Champion



Joined: 13 Mar 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:25 - 29 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get your shovel out it's not that difficult. Laughing

Or even hire a mini digger for the day and sort the footings out, a few crates of beer and a barbie going a few mates and it'll be done in no time. It won't be level but the water will run off nice. Very Happy
____________________
Tristan the wrote: just whipped off my trousers to find a big bruise on my arse, caused by matt rear ending me...
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

thegubner
World Chat Champion



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:28 - 29 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piece of piss to get level. You even get self levelling tile grout, so just throw that on top of some crushed concrete if your feeling flush.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:42 - 29 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well thanks for the help lads... Thumbs Up Smile
Hard work is not hard work to me you see. But my time is precious.
You need a cert to drive a digger.
Most hire shops I have asked state that.

It is a dead easy project.
Dig out to 6" leaving 3' more on each end and side.
Shutter in ensuring level.
Mini batcher will hoi the cement in.
Spread and screed.
I think the surface has then to be floated to bring some fat up and leave a smooth surface.
I can do the lecy etc, myself.

I can see a 'quality job' will be done if I mix some alcohol with concrete.... Laughing Ya dafties. Mr. Green
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Stalk
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 26 Dec 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 04:34 - 30 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
I think the surface has then to be floated to bring some fat up and leave a smooth surface.
I can do the lecy etc, myself.


Not too smooth, slippery when wet. If your doing the electrics you could consider running the swa as you lay the base. If you don't Know what swa is, get somebody else to do it. And don't forget part P.

Cheers
Stalk
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:35 - 30 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't going to bother burying a SWA. I'll just bring an extension reel from the kitchen.... Smile

I will run the cable to my Sparkie's instruction. I don't need to have him hanging around for that. He has a life.
I am only the donkey in this project.

My mate will connect to a consumer box in the new building.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

leiba1
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 27 Apr 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:00 - 01 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't want the floor to be level as in flat and level. You want it to be even but with an ever so gentle slope towards the door or a drain for run off.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:51 - 01 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

leiba1 wrote:
You don't want the floor to be level as in flat and level. You want it to be even but with an ever so gentle slope towards the door or a drain for run off.


That's what I thought, but the Specification from the garage manufacturer says, "Flat and Level" Shocked
So I better not spill any beer on it. Crying or Very sad

The construction of the building requires a level surface or roof/panels will not fit properly. This also affects structural integrity.

The floor will be smooth as I will apply a two pack floor paint after and then show the GF how to work a skwee-jee. Laughing

Electrics are covered too, 16mm SWA from Dom. Cons. Box to a 6 way Cons. Box in the new building.
Load factors worked out to carry 60a breaker and some RCD cover on sockets.
Beer fridge.
Dryer.
Lectric door opener. Embarassed
Lights and 13a sockets.
Electric blanket under the bike. Laughing
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

leiba1
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 27 Apr 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:22 - 01 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as all the sides where the walls are going to sit are level with each other, then you could still incorporate a slope for drainage in the actual working area. But, as this seems to be an 'off the shelf' garage, that might create an unacceptable gap under the garage door.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:51 - 01 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't want a fall on a workshop floor - at all. The place won't be swimming in water inside and if you got a spill you can sweep it to the door.

Guv'nor that has to be the stupidest thing I've ever seen you post, tile grout on crushed concrete as a floor base - really!

Walloper, just make the floor slab flat and level, as they say. Once you have dug your base, assuming you aren't going to bother with mesh or anything just put down a 1000-gauge DPM (£15 from wickes) as a waterproof membrane and pour in the concrete. Using a power-float is a good idea for a rock-hard finish, otherwise tamp it down and screed over (or not).

I'm seriously considering buying one of these for a new workshop, and reinforcing the walls with 1" jablite polystyrene for insulation then 18mm ply on the inside:

https://dhlogcabins.co.uk/uk/product/83/445/5m-x-5m-severn-5-28-log-cabin
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

thegubner
World Chat Champion



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:12 - 01 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri





Its only stupid if someone is stupid enough to take it seriously. Rolling Eyes
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:51 - 01 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_guvnor_1_uk wrote:
Geri





Its only stupid if someone is stupid enough to take it seriously. Rolling Eyes


I went out and bought a 50kg bag of tile grout and a 6" spreader ya dick. Evil or Very Mad Laughing
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:02 - 02 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
You don't want a fall on a workshop floor - at all. The place won't be swimming in water inside and if you got a spill you can sweep it to the door.

Guv'nor that has to be the stupidest thing I've ever seen you post, tile grout on crushed concrete as a floor base - really!

Walloper, just make the floor slab flat and level, as they say. Once you have dug your base, assuming you aren't going to bother with mesh or anything just put down a 1000-gauge DPM (£15 from wickes) as a waterproof membrane and pour in the concrete. Using a power-float is a good idea for a rock-hard finish, otherwise tamp it down and screed over (or not).

I'm seriously considering buying one of these for a new workshop, and reinforcing the walls with 1" jablite polystyrene for insulation then 18mm ply on the inside:

https://dhlogcabins.co.uk/uk/product/83/445/5m-x-5m-severn-5-28-log-cabin


Geri FYI:

26' x 10' Precast panels.
Cement Sheet Apex Roof.
Real Brick front cladding.
Motor-izable door.
Window.
Rear 3' door.
Approx 3000 grand delivered and assembled.

Base 6" longer 3" wider than building.
Min 4" deep with at least 6" min under edges.
No need for mesh or DPM but can if prefered.

I just got a quote for 2500 smackers to just lay a base. (Incorporating mesh.) Shocked

It's the builders who are crap. All at work and won't answer their bloody phones or they don't want to do a little job like this.

I was just trying to get a figure on a price.....

Guvnor, you off next weekend?
st3v3 PM'd me to say you'll work for beer. Very Happy
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

kawakid
World Chat Champion



Joined: 15 Mar 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:22 - 02 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeahh I paid someone to do it for me also.

I asked were I got my garage from and they new someone.

Only charged a few hundred quid and they also knocked the old garage down (I had a new one made bigger).

You don't need to bother mixing the cement, all the guys did is went down to local building yard and the just brought it all back on the back of a flat bed.

To do the base they just boxed it all round with planks, filled in the hole and then just smoothed off with another plank.

One word of warning get the biggest garage you can.

I could have gone 2 foot wider with no impact to my garden, but I didn't to save a rather nice rose bush. Which I totally regret now.
____________________
I've a twin and a 4.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

iloveriding
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 24 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:56 - 02 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am a builder, I have built many things including garages, I have pasted a few pics of a garage I built for my cousin, It cost her just under £1500.00 (I didnt charge her labour. The costings was for materials only.
Look at the pictures and you want advice feel free to ask. I could talk you through it for you to build yourself.
This garage is 1 and half times the size of most garages and out of the £1500 came £400 for the door alone. (as it was not a standard door size.
Tony
____________________
Ride Safe, Stay Safe, Be Safe, Be Seen And See All Other Idiots on the road
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:03 - 02 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 and a half grand for a 6" base (mesh or no) is simply outrageous. It simply cannot be justified. Did you get a cost break-down?
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

tristan
Crazy Courier



Joined: 03 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:14 - 02 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love the way general bike chat forum has building threads, with pics n' all Mr. Green

Entertaining me anyways. Thumbs Up
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Diggs
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:33 - 02 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want advice on planning permission (as this seems to have become the 'development' thread...), ask away... Its what I do for a living...
____________________
Now - Speed Triple, old ratty GS550, GSXR750M
Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting...
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Walloper
Super Spammer



Joined: 24 Feb 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:19 - 03 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
2 and a half grand for a 6" base (mesh or no) is simply outrageous. It simply cannot be justified. Did you get a cost break-down?



Ye canny beat bcf. Thumbs Up Laughing

I never asked for a breakdown. I know the guy doesn't want the job.
I would not even ask for it anyway.
I bet he could keep his face straight too. Shocked

I priced a spot mix for 3-4 M3 concrete delivered and poured.
300 quid. My shuttering would be less than 100 and there is no need for mesh.

The skilled part is floating after. I am shite at it and not afraid to admit that on here. Embarassed

I thought to save hassle pay someone. But I was not completley ignorant of a ball park figure.

I was given the spec. to build a Lockheed Blackbird Hanger though.

iloveriding, that is a good job you done on the How to Do it story board.
I will do the same. (Or try very hard to do so.)

I would have put brick but with prefab you can always take it with you if you find somewhere better to stay. Plus it is all done in one day.
(I forgot to say that builders have a sense of humour too. Laughing )
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

iloveriding
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 24 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:40 - 03 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't float finish the floor mate,
Use a long board, If the garage floor is less than 13 foot then use a scaffolding board. Turn it on its side and nail a piece of batten each end to act as handles.
Lay the concrete into your base (assuming all your shuttering is level all around)
Move the board from side to side, You should be scrapping the top of the concrete. Do this for about 3 foot then with the board go back to where you started and you and your friend tap (its called tamping) all the way to where you scrapped from side to side.
This should bring all the fat of the cement to the top. (it will look like the floor is covered in grey water but trust me)
Continue this all the way to the end.
Obviously when your scrapping with the board if there are some low spots chuck some cement in to it.
Don't play with it now. Wait until tomorrow and have a look. If the cement is dry and cool to touch through a bag of course sand over the whole floor and with a stiff broom brush the sand about and then get rid of it. This will act like a sander and smooth your garage floor enough for you to use.
Wait atlest 24 hour before putting anything heavy on the concrete.
If you float finish the garage floor in the winter you will end up with a ice rink
Tony
____________________
Ride Safe, Stay Safe, Be Safe, Be Seen And See All Other Idiots on the road
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

iloveriding
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 24 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:00 - 03 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

of course if you do want a float finish the time to do it is in the 2 foot stages, Gently run a plastic or wooden float (NOT A PLASTERING TROWEL) over the tamped area. You will see lines where you have floated up but again with the sand and stiff brush they will go.
Tony
____________________
Ride Safe, Stay Safe, Be Safe, Be Seen And See All Other Idiots on the road
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:35 - 03 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hand-floating isn't really a beginner's job, you could end-up with a floor with a poor surface. Better to use a power-float. Still not really a beginner's job but requires less skill and gives a rock-hard surface.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

iloveriding
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 24 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:12 - 03 Jul 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You really need experience to use a power float Geri, I have seen a ground worker set the blades up wrong and chew up nearly set concrete, Cost a lot of money to put right, That with out the damage to the float.
As said also I wouldn't advise a floated finish in a garage.
But that's just my professional opinion.
Tony
____________________
Ride Safe, Stay Safe, Be Safe, Be Seen And See All Other Idiots on the road
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 19 years, 121 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> General Bike Chat All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.09 Sec - Server Load: 0.96 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 126.89 Kb