CG125, security, caring for it, general noob questions

[deanoet]

Hello again, thought i would start a second thread, as i am decided on bike (bought it) and stuff...


Simple one first, securing it when away from home. It has spokes (as i am sure u know) can i use a normal lock? Do i need to use a lock? Will one damage the spokes?
If i need one, what make / size etc etc
At home it will be in a locked garage
at work it is a secure site, 2k people onsite, so needs securing, but it isnt just on a road all day
Then at the gym, which will be daylight, right outside the main doors


Caring for it:
I have a car, but that is tyres, water, oil. Nice and simple.

I hear mentions of valve cleaning and spark plugs and stuff. Clue, please... Will it all be in the manual for the bike?



Clothing
I have a helmet, a textile jacket with shoulder, back and arm armour and gloves with knuckle armour. Will be using it for round town only, nothing over 30mph. Will jeans and good solid shoes be okay? Wont be used in wet weather so it being waterproof isnt an issue.

Had help on the helmet for fitting and stuff from the guy in the shop, so happy with the fit, as that is the most important thing. Not sure on the model, but it is a Lazer one.


Sure there was more... Cant remember though. Will add as i think of things. They are the 3 main ones

Thanx again.
Very helpful (and active) site.

Deanoet

[BlastThemAway]

Hey there.

not had too much experience, but found that a CG isnt the most desired bike in the world, so security wont be too much of an issue.

still i used a big fat lock that went into the rear wheel, through the spokes, over the seat.

and used the steering lock, you'll find it on the front forks on the right hand side.

as so:

https://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7816/lockph8.jpg

apologies for the bad pic, just took it now.


Caring for it:

basicly the same here, except no water, air cooled.

but check tyres now and then, and oil.

and details will be in the manual, Haynes Manual may be a valuble buy for more detailed information.

but dont do work your not sure with, dont go opening parts of the bike at random

and same with servicing as with a car.

Clothing:

just wear what you have atm with a nice pair of jeans will do.

although their not the best thing ever.

i've come off and the deck just ripped through my jeans.

anything else just ask

Blast
____________________
Bike Pics
GPZ500s (ex500d) rider.

[veeeffarr]

You're having a laugh aren't you? CG's are a chav theif's dream, as they're good for ragging about fields.

A chain won't damage the spokes if you're careful

CG's need fuck all maintainance.

I did all my own servicing, which was change the oil every 2,000 miles, lubricate all the pivot points with 3 in 1, oil and adjust the chain every week. I did the spark plugs every 2/3 months or so just because they're cheap and there's no harm in doing them.

I wouldn't worry about having the valve clearances seen it, it's definately a job for a mechanic but the service intervals are usually quite far apart.

Definately lock it up though, you don't have to spend a fortune on a chain although if you want a good one ALMAX come highly recommended. It's important you get one the right length so you are not leaving excess dangling on the floor.

T

[BlastThemAway]

[Spoon261]

Toby R posted "I wouldn't worry about having the valve clearances seen it, it's definately a job for a mechanic but the service intervals are usually quite far apart."

The owners book states the valve cleanances should be checked every 2500 miles.

I was told that the first 2 checks are very important, if it does not need adjusting the 2nd time, check every 5000 miles.
The 1st time, mine needed adjustment, the 2nd it did not.

Hear are my instructions for the new model honda CG125.

1. Leave bike overnight to cool down

2. Remove the two round hex key covers on the left hand side of the engine case.
The big one is for turning over the engine (you might be able to use rear wheel + 5th gear instead)
The small one is were the marks for valve clearance and timing are (T is for valve and F for timing)

3. You can remove the spark plug to aid turning over the engine but not really needed.

4. Turn the engine over anticlockwise with a 14mm socket until a small on its side T is displayed on the outside of the disc
(you will need a torch and magnifying glass), line the mark below the T up with the grove at the top of the hole.

5. To remove the valve cover you first need to remove the air box attached to the valve cover =
5.1 Slide the rubber air pipe out of the metal hook on the chassis
5.2 Remove the two main bolts (10mm) attaching the air box to the valve cover.

5.3 Remove the two 8mm bolts attaching the air pipe to the top of the valve cover (pipe has a rubber washer) slide
air box + pipes away from valve cover / bike.

If the spanner can not grip, remove the petrol tank & use a socket set / may need an extra thin extension shaft.
To remove petrol tank
Make sure petrol on/off/reserve tap is off & detach petrol fuel hose from petrol on/off/reserve tap
remove left side panel of bike, unclip right side panel where it clips in to petrol tank
unclip petrol tank electrical connection and un hook wire from bike chassis
remove seat, remove bolt holding tank, remove tank by pulling it towards rear of bike and up

6. Remove the valve cover (two bolts on the right and one on the left 10mm, rubber gasket inside)

7. Check that you can rock the valves = if not you are on the wrong part of the engine stroke, simply turn the
engine over anticlockwise until the next T is displayed, line the mark below the T up with the grove at the top
of the hole

8. The Valve clearance should be set to = 0.08mm (0.003 in), feeler gauges are available at Halfords
To adjust the valve, loosen the nut on the valve you wish to adjust, use pliers to turn the top of the screw
thread (or obtain the proper tool) until the clearance is at the desired amount, then re tighten nut.
Check valve clearance every 2,000 miles until it settles down then every 4000

9. Reassemble everything in reverse order, but make sure rubber air hose is not trapped on the inside when
attaching air box to valve cover.

[Spoon261]

Nearly forgot, I found it impossible to get the Hex key covers to budge on a cold engine. I then tried on a hot engine = easy.
I left them loose overnight for the engine to cool down again.
I of course did them up again on a cold engine and never had the problem again.

I do not no if this would also have worked with the 8mm nuts.
Once the 8mm were removed, I put them back on with a 8mm spanner and never had trouble with them again (no need to remove petrol tank).

Valve clearences must be checked on a totally cold engine, this can take meny hours (so leave overnight to be sure). The valve clearences change on a hot engine. The honda service manual states its figures for a cold engine.

[Spoon261]

Chain adjustment is covered in the user manual.

So is changing the spark plug.

Brake fluid is changed every 2 years (very easy, just search the internet).

Oil change is also very easy and in the user manual.

Air Filter checking is also very easy and in the user manual.

That’s all the servicing requirements for the bike, except cleaning the centrifugal oil filter that the mechanics swear does not need to be cleaned even after 80,000 miles as long as you change the oil when or before the book states.

[Kal]

I had my CG stolen. They are fairly high risk because there is a good secondhand parts market for them but also because they are ideal for little trendy twats to thrash around in local parks.

The later is what happened to mine, she was locked but being a lightweight bike the wankers just lifted her up between them and ran off to somewhere they had time to do something about the chain.

She was outside the front of the house for two hours. I really do wish I had taken the extra couple of minutes to secure her to something they couldn't move. Especially with the damage caused by a previoous theft attepmt in Nottingham.

Lockwise - go for a big bastard chain. Something you can get around streetfurniture. You will never be able to stop a determined and skilled bike thief, however 90% of thieves are opportunistic taking advantage of an easy opening.

Currently I am using a Mamoth chain and lock.


To be honest apart from checking the air pressure in the tires and that the chain adjustmen wasn't too loose I did hardly any servicing to my CG.

After 20,000 miles she was still on the same oil because it didn't seem to be going off, the engine was on song so I wasn't interested in messing with it. The NGK sparkplug was still clean.

Not a worry in the world. Most of the time I was twirling spanners menacingly at her had to do with a failed theft or damge from my two downs on her.
____________________
Kal...
I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It Ya Like To (HOON IT!).
1984 GB250 Clubman,1983 CB250N Superdream, 1999 GPZ500S

[deanoet]

Thanx folks...



Where will the "L" plates go?
sticker one on the front mudguard?
Then a plate under the rear number plate i assume?

Will Honda put these on for me? or will i have to tell them? They know i am doing a CBT so if they think they will know i need "L" plates


Told u they were newbie questions.


Week is dragging, and i have got till next wednesday before i do the CBT... just wanna get on with it... lol.

[Kal]

I had a solid L plate mounted to a small bracket on top of the light. Si, who put the bike together for me, reckoned that it would act as a micro fairing )

My rear was again a solid L plate and was screwed to the bottom of the rear mudguard. I lost two of these but still can't think of anywhere better to place them.

If you want the dealership to fit them I'd suggest you talk to them and make sure they will do as technically L plates are additional equipment. Don't assume anything!
____________________
Kal...
I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It Ya Like To (HOON IT!).
1984 GB250 Clubman,1983 CB250N Superdream, 1999 GPZ500S

[deanoet]

Thanx.

How much are they likely to charge for the "L" plates?? I need them so it is tough really, but nice to know.


Also.
Insurance has come through, and it says:
Bike: Garaged (brick)

It isnt a brick garage
It will be in a locked summer house which is made from wood. The garden has high fences and the gate is locked.
It could go in the garage but it is prone to flooding after heavy rain, so would have to build a 20cm high platform for it if it had to go into the garage. So summer house would be easier..

Do i need to ring them and make sure this is okay? Or am i being over cautious??

[Jacob]

No mate always check with your insurer becos those buggers like any reason to get out paying out in the event of something unfortunate happenening. My mechanical skills are zero and I am still working out how I am going to adjust the chain on my CG......did the cleaning/lubricating bit

Got her over 50 tonight and realized that 5th gear is a bit gutless (may be should have stayed in 4th for longer).

Overall though I love my CG its great had some car driver want to overtake me just as we came off a roundabout (ok so cornering still isn't my thing at the moment....) onto a nice straight bit......he changed his mind when he realised I was happy to go right up to the limit and then some and I was sticking in the middle of the road whether he liked it or not....

She responded admirably in 2nd and 3rd

Still undecided whether to do DAS or a Standard test.........what you thinking of doing Deano ?

[Kal]

L plates - should not cost more than a couple of quid. To be honest as you are buying the whole shebang from them brand new they should be able to throw in a couple of L plates.

Garage

If it specifies brickbuilt garage on the insurance documents then it needs to be in a brick built lockable building. A wooden Summer house is only going to count as off road parking with most insurers.

Chain maintainence

Loosen off the axle before attempting to do anything to the adjusters at the back. Not loosening the axle not can be a bad thing...

..Don't ask how I know.

When you adjust the chain turn each nut flat to flat. In other words each nut should be tightened one sixth of a rotation before moving to the nut ont he other side of the bike and adjusting that one sixth of a rotation. The idea is too keep the adjustment completely even. At some point in your maintence career you'll be tempted to take a shortcut, I'd make a friendly bet you'll find out why I suggest you do things the slow way.

Anyway so tighted the adjusters first on the right then on the left and so on until the chain is tighter but not so tight it is like a guitar string. Too tight can be a bad thing....

Again, don't ask how I know.

Rotate the chain to determine it's relative looseness - there will be places on the chain where it has more freeplay than others, this is just how chains wear.

DAS v's Part Two

If you have the option of taking the DAS then take it even if you intend to continue riding a sub 33bhp bike after your test. DAS gives you the option of riding any bike you like and the extra cost is easliy the equivilant to the cost of restricting a bike.

Apart from the size bike you are on the DAS and the Part Two are identical. You have to ride to the same standard and do all the same things as you would on the DAS.
____________________
Kal...
I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It I Like To Hoon It Hoon It Ya Like To (HOON IT!).
1984 GB250 Clubman,1983 CB250N Superdream, 1999 GPZ500S

[deanoet]

rang them today about the brick garage and they said it is the same cost for a bike of that value.

So they are sending a new policy form through.
Same cost.

[deanoet]