ZZR 600 E keeps dying, any help?

SonofABiker · Nova Slayer Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Karma :

Hi guys, been a while since the zed has had any problems, so stupid me said it was really reliable.... uh oh.

Basically, it keeps flattening the battery!

Ive had the battery out, trickle charged it, put it back in next day, fine, for a few days, then it is as if the battery has died. We replaced the battery, seeing as it was fairly old, and lo and behold, two weeks after buying a new battery, we're back in the same story!

Im told at 40K miles the Alternator normally munches itself, is that true? and if so, will that be the likely problem?

When i try turning it over, the solenoid, (i believe) is spinning, u can hear it spinning, but no turning over, or you get very very low noise, as if the battery is dead. AS soon as i stick jump leads on it, it goes, but i cant use indicators, lights etc, or it'll die.

any help really appreciated, this bike is my lifeline for work!

Thanks, Paul.
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bish777 · World Chat Champion Joined: 11 Nov 2004 Karma :

Does sound like a generator failure.

Failed regualtors tend to cause fried batteries, so id guess the alternator is faulty.

Start searching the breakers for a replacement, i guess that would be easiest.
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GSXR1100J

SonofABiker · Nova Slayer Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Karma :

Lovely, alternator hunting is the way forward then!

ah well, thank god i didnt spend my bonus this month.. looks like ill need it.. how much do you think a replacement alternator would cost?
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alun111 · World Chat Champion Joined: 31 May 2007 Karma :

It won't necessarily be the alternator. Take it to your mechanic and ask them to test the charging circuit. It could be the alternator or it could be the reg/rec, or wiring.

iooi · Super Spammer Joined: 14 Jan 2007 Karma :

Try asking Here A nice ZZR based site.
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

SonofABiker · Nova Slayer Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Karma :

hi there, took it to the garage, basically, when running, even with the light on or off, it was at 11.62 or thereabouts, now i dont know owt about bikes really, but they said it seems to be the regulator.. should i just buy a new one? i was offered one for 30 pounds, restored one, or 70 for in packet brand new.. is it repairable, or is it a "just buy a new one" item?

ive found where the regulator is, so getting it swapped over/removed is simple, to be honest!

many thanks in advance!
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finpos · World Chat Champion Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :

Not repairable, you need a new(ish) one. Unfortunately, doesn't sound like the garage did a great job, they could have done a more thorough test and told you exactly what the problem is.

You either need to test it yourself properly, get someone else to do that for you or start randomly replacing parts.

f.

alun111 · World Chat Champion Joined: 31 May 2007 Karma :

yer, it does sound like the garage didn't really give you much info on what the problem was, and it sounds like they suspected what the problem was (the reg/rec). However, without a thorough test of the reg/rec and alternator instead of just linking a multimeter across the battery, you cannot not know for sure which component has gone faulty.

You cannot repair reg/recs internally, but if any of the wires on the outside are split or rubbing through, then you can repair that.

It's up to you whether you buy a new or used one, obviously there's a risk with buying used, it could just die on you or could already be dead.

You need to do a thorough test of the charging circuit though, to avoid throwing away money.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

I know the GPZ500 has a habit of tracking corrosion up the wires leading to the main fuse which is located on the side of the starter solenoid. This can cause charging faults.

It is not inconceivable that they use the same componant on the ZZR, worth a look at the main fues and its holder anyway.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

SonofABiker · Nova Slayer Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Karma :

Basically, if i give you guys the heads up of whats happened, i might get a better result then the garage lol.

The bike has just reached the 45K mark in its long and arguably harsh life, and all was running well. It had been becoming a bit of a pain to start in the cold, but nothing outrageously difficult. Normally it would start first time with a little bit of choke, and away we went. however, one morning, middle of summer, mind, it was a bit more difficult then normal to get going. It did on the button after two attempts, and away i went. however, half way home from Borehamwood to Basildon, it completely died, at about 100 (well, felt like 100 officer, i dont ride over 70 though!) and i had to drift it over to the hard shoulder. It refused point blank to go, as if the battery was completely dead. Lo and behold, jump start later, away it went, roaring into life, and it got me home, so long as i didnt use any of the signals/lights.

We got it home, got the battery out and charged it up trickle style, was flat as a pancake. Now, every day, i have to remove the battery, and trickle charge it, otherwise it wont start after the second press of the button. (ie, start, go to work, fine. Start, come home, fine. If i stop for petrol, or anywhere else, and try again, nothing, dead.) i then remove battery and trickle, and put my other battery (brand new) in instead, and it still does it.

as i said, took it to the garage, they tested it for free, 11.62 whilst running with lights on or off. they said most likely rectifier gone bang, but they would test it and replace any parts if need be, but seeing as money was short, i took it home so i could do the work myself (im sure i can do this stuff myself, got a Haynes, cant be soo difficult).

On that much more explained note, are we still going by the rectifier, or should i go circuit first? I was told the rectifier is a common problem with these, especially well used bikes.. and i have been offered a new one for 30 pound, so i was thinking, is it worth trying, and if it isnt, then start poking and prodding?
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stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

£30 is cheap for a new reg/rec unit. It would be tempting to buy it anyway at that price and keep it for a spare. It'll work on most bikes although the connectors will be different shapes and sizes on different bikes.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

SonofABiker · Nova Slayer Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Karma :

right, finally got the part, 30 quid all in, and went my way round getting it on the bike.

after getting the damnit fairing off (how much of a nightmare is that?!) i removed the offending part, only to find...

something had gone bad lol

basically, the six pin connection going from the wire to the rectifier, where the two connect, looks like water has got into the wiring, and has caused a blow out (one of the pins is black, looks like a small fire has been in there, which would explain why its not working!

so, i know thats not a spectacular explaination, but with this in mind, ive decided NOT to put the new rec on, until ive checked the wiring is fine. should i replace the wire? or just cut it down, along with the others, replace the connector, as well as the rec, and that would work?

im thinking the first, as if water has got in, its probably not going to help it at all.. but im hoping not, as it sounds expensive!

many thanks in advance!
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stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

They sometines do catch fire a wee bit when they go.

You'd definately want to cut it back to good wire and replace the connectors. It should be obvious when you've cut back far enough (lack of scorching etc). Use a good quality crimp, not one of those shitty ones with blue plastic on them that you get from auto repair shops.

Got a multimeter?

There will be three yellow wires in the connector block. Setting your meter to measure resistance, you should have equal and low resistance between any pair of yellows. There should be an open circuit (infinately high resistance) between any single yellow and earth.

There should be continuity (low resistance) between the black wire with yellow tracer and earth.

Setting the meter to measure voltage, there should be 12v all the time measuring between the white wire and earth. There should be 12v measuring between the brown wire and earth only with the ignition switched on.

If that checks out ok, it's probably ok. If the colours are different, tell me what they are (I used 'universal' kawasaki wiring colours).
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.