Replacing break pads

[Louise]

My rear pads have gone now - Started to grind.
I have new ones on the way and have the option on someone fitting them tommorow but means I need to ride 40 odd miles with a front brake only.
Is it simple as undoing the bolts, sliding the pads out and replacing them!?

[Stiffler]

Give or take yes... You'll need to push the piston('s) back into the calliper a little to allow you to fit the new pads in. But this should be easy as long as they aren't suffering from corrosion.

While you've got the calliper off you should give it a quick clean out with brake cleaner fluid.

Finally you'll need a tiny bit of copper grease for the back of the brake pads to reduce brake squeal.

Tim
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Current Bikes - Kawasaki ZX-6R (636) | BMW G650GS

[cheekythomas]

If its the bandit that needs the pads... prey to god its been well serviced and copper slipped up or the rear pads can be a proper nightmare as the pins sieze up and often mean spliting the caliper in half to get them out

[alun111]

You'll find it easier if you use a screwdriver to pry between the worn pads to push the pistons in all the way, then take the old pads out and clean everything up with brake cleaner (from halfords or whatever) using a toothbrush or similar.

Wash your hands thoroughly (or change your rubber gloves) and open the pack of new pads, put copper grease on the same areas that the old pads had rings on the back (where the piston has been in contact).

Slide the new pads in (taking care not to get any oil/shite/grease/copperslip on to the surface of the pads), fit back all the pins/rods etc. Slide the caliper back on to the disc and bolt it back on, then pump the break lever a few times till it's hard. Hopefully you won't need to bleed your brakes.

Bear in mind that the new pads will have to bed in (mate with the shape of the disc). This means that your brakes may not be too efficient to start with, so take it easy.

[Louise]

Ive gotten the pads (what was left of them) out by poping the 2 pins out.
However, trying to slip the new ones in they are not fitting. they are the correct ones but seem 'big' and the disk is too near.
I cant undo one bolt to take the caliper? off.
Im stuck with what to do now.
Ive tryed to puch the piston (I think) in (the round'O's?) there not budging.

Possible a garage now, but with now rear pads in and i going to cause even more damage. Obvioulsy I wouldnt touch the rear brake at all.
Advice?

[Drew]

[carvell]

I've always had to use a G clamp to get pistons back in, they're not as easy to push in as you think they might be. Push harder!
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Yamaha TDM 850

[Louise]

[carvell]

If it were me I'd just take the caliper off and use a G-clamp.

You can try using a screwdriver to force the old pads to push the pistons back in.
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Yamaha TDM 850

[----]

yup g clamp.
what suprises me is that youve let the pads go that far before changing them your lucky you dont need a new disk aswell.
good luck
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DRZ-400sm

[Louise]

As above I cant get the caliper off. One of the bolts is stuck - the more we try to undo the more its rounding off.
Well, I had a blonde moment and decided to ride a few miles with out relising I had the back brake on
Ringing garage tommorow.
Thanks for the help tho

[----]

is there enough room to get vice grips onto the bolt?
get them on nice and tight that should get it off.just make sure you replace the bolt with a new one afterwards.
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DRZ-400sm

[Louise]

Nah, at OH's and only has grips but cant get a tight enough grip to move it. WD40'd the lot.
Bloody shame as it was going ok. Just hope they dont charge a fortune to fix the pads back in.

[Drew]

Not got a big bloke of a neighbour who can crack the nut off for you to release the caliper?

[Louise]

hmmm Nope, all OAP's here lol... Sorry forgot mention they are pliers for grip - which do a better job of the spanners - still no joy.
I have proper grips at home, which ill be going home tommorow some time. Will try that as the last resort.

[snapperslappe...]

had the same problem getting the rear caliper off.... i just hammered an imperial socket onto the bolt head ( ever so slightly smaller ), stuck an extention bar onto the ratchet arm and tapped it off with a mallet.....

just make sure you've got a sutable replacement bolt to hand.

the only other wat would be to whip the rear axel out, the caliper holding bracket will then move down enough from the disk for you to g clamp the pistons

[sickpup]

looks like you need to strip and rebuild that caliper to me. The piston is very corroded and needs replacement.

The piston and seal kit costs £20.50 each side + P+P.

[sickpup]

Just reread this. Why don't you use a socket to undo the nolt and the grips to push the piston in?

[Louise]

Scoket set was tryed yesterday just rounds off.
Going home shortly and will try the things said on here