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A plea to people working on their bike electrics

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: A plea to people working on their bike electrics Reply with quote

One of these days I'm going to buy a motorbike that doesn't have even one occurrance of two wires being joined together by twisting the stripped ends and wrapping them in PVC tape.

I mean, you'd have thought when I bought a brand new bike a few years ago, it'd all be ok? But no, they'd cut a wire on that fitting the immobaliser then decided against it and twisted the ends back together (which lead to me getting the bike towed behind my brothers car for four miles and a day spent tracking the fault down).

The latest YB100 I just bought for my girlfriend put a new 'twist' on this particular bodge. The previous owner replaced the headlight bulb holder at some point which presumably came with no connectors on. They did the twist and PVC tape trick to bodge a short length of wire with the bullet connector cut off the old bulb holder onto the ends of them.

Please people. It is ok as a temporary 'get you home' thing but it is not a good way to join two electrical wires, especially on a motorcycle where it is exposed to the elements. If you are lucky it will eventually fail. If you are unlucky it will cause an intermittant fault or short circuit that will have you or a subsequent owner tearing their hair out.

Even if you buy those shitty crimps you get on filling station forecourts and a crimping tool it would be better than nothing. In fact. I've seen the tools with 50 free crimps for sale at car boot sales for like £1.99.

For preference, either solder and shrinktube them if it is a permanant join or use non insulated bullet connectors. www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk sell kits with a load of different crimps, silicone insulation 'socks' and the correct crimping die.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 01:23 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I served my apprenticship with Joseph Lucas Electrical Ltd.
nothing wrong with twisting wires IMHO Mr. Green
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:50 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

1930 Ariel wrote:
I served my apprenticship with Joseph Lucas Electrical Ltd.
nothing wrong with twisting wires IMHO Mr. Green


Ahh. The inventor of the three position headlamp switch. Off, Dim, and Flicker.

"A gentleman does not motor about after dark." J. Lucas (aka 'Prince of darkness'
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the hours of daylight in fact was what he fictionaly said. He may have made crap lights but his grammar was perfect
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:57 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I once saw a t-shirt with the Lucas logo on it printed in black on a black t-shirt. I want one but I've never been able to find it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TheShaggyDA
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Self amalgamating tape FTW! Smile

Tandys used to do solder tape that would melt using a match or lighter. Maplins don't do it, nor do RS components, it seems. Then again, 12v or battery/gas powered soldering irons are cheap enough to have in a bike tool kit.
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Stiffler
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely with you on this one Stinkwheel. With my last bike (NC30) 16 years of new rider bodging had left it with some rather interesting "modifications". One thing that left me scratching my head for a day or two was the loss of the starter motor.

The bike would start fine if bumped but there was no response at all from the starter button. The problem was later traced to a home-made connection (Twisted wires wrapped in about half a roll of electrical tape) in the starter relay circuit. On assessment it appeared the bodge had been perfectly adequate for a good few years but inevitably it eventually failed.

Tim
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

My great hate is scotchlocks. It seems the Goldwing fraternity have a great love for using them for their add on lights etc. Evil or Very Mad

The amount of rewiring 2nd hand wings I have done due to them is painful. They have to be the worst way of connecting electrical wires together ever.
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crazymotorbik...
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey,

Yer i know what u mean about twisted wires Evil or Very Mad The number i've had fail on second hand bikes is ridiculous!

For me its always bind, solder, shrink wrap, and then pvc tape.

It maybe OTT but i've never had any bike re-wiring fail on me yet!

Shaun.
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carsounds_dan
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

i fit car radios into cars ranging from 07 plate bentleys to OLD novas and crap.. so i see it all.
can i also add.
If supplying power to ANYTHING make sure that the power is fuse, and with a relivantly sized fuse.
If soldering use the best quality solder as possible (lead-free if you can get it).
Using insulated terminals is fine, just make sure that you use the correct type ratcheting crimpers (snap-ons are £50+VAT but u can get them for £20).
If using your own wire use multi-core wire, the finer the strands the best.
cheers
dan
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

carsounds_dan wrote:
i fit car radios into cars ranging from 07 plate bentleys to OLD novas and crap.. so i see it all.
can i also add.
If supplying power to ANYTHING make sure that the power is fuse, and with a relivantly sized fuse.
If soldering use the best quality solder as possible (lead-free if you can get it).
Using insulated terminals is fine, just make sure that you use the correct type ratcheting crimpers (snap-ons are £50+VAT but u can get them for £20).
If using your own wire use multi-core wire, the finer the strands the best.
cheers
dan


Don't they come with one Shocked
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carsounds_dan
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

they do, but i live in a bad area, its usually nicked before you drive out the dealers....
i fit anything from very expensive high end stereo stuff (into bentleys, last week we had a customer spend £10k just for supply, let alone installation) to very cheap stuff (£30 eBay special worth more than the nova/clio/205 that its being fitted in)
cheers
dan
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tatters
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to have to sort my RD350 out at some point, the loom is in a state and among many things the front brake light switch does,nt bring the stop lamp on but the head lamp instead Rolling Eyes
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Jaloopa
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

tatters wrote:
Going to have to sort my RD350 out at some point, the loom is in a state and among many things the front brake light switch does,nt bring the stop lamp on but the head lamp instead Rolling Eyes

That's impressive! And I thought my intermittent speedo light was bad.
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LeeWat
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

And another one, please dont use all black wiring if you re-wire an old GS1100G try to stick to the original colours, and please please try to find the appropriate switch gear, dont just stick UK model switches to a US import the sockets are different. I'm now bald thanks to the previous owner of my 1982 GS... cheers m8 Smile Rolling Eyes
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

carsounds_dan wrote:

Using insulated terminals is fine, just make sure that you use the correct type ratcheting crimpers (snap-ons are £50+VAT but u can get them for £20).


The cheapo pressed steel ones work ok, you just need to remember to crimp it twice and they are hard work if you're doing a lot. Ratchet crimping tools cost £17 from vehicle wiring products and I agree, they make the job quick and easy.

I don't like them though, they don't get a very good hold of the insulation on the cable. Non-insulated crimps get such a good hold you could hang the bike off them, the wire will snap before the crimp comes off. The crimping die curls the tags on the terminal in on themselves, effectively sealing the wire and stopping moisture creeping up inside the insulation.

I've seen the pre-insulated ones corrode pretty badly and the corrosion can track right back up the wire meaning you have to splice a new wire in instead of just replacing the terminal.

They are fine for car electrics but not so good for bike ones. Either is better than twisting the ends together.

You can also flow solder in on top of a non-insulated crimp if you are going for the full 'belt and braces' although if badly done, this can actually make the joint less flexable and more prone to breaking through fatigue.

Why lead free solder?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

tatters wrote:
Going to have to sort my RD350 out at some point, the loom is in a state and among many things the front brake light switch does,nt bring the stop lamp on but the head lamp instead Rolling Eyes


This could actually be due to a bad earth connection rather than a primary wiring fault.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 02 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like you get 07 plate Bentleys and Rollers in skank areas with rat boys on the loose. Mr. Green
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carsounds_dan
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

lead free solder flows better at lower temperatures.
so if you have a small gas soldering iron then the difference can be noticed.
the ratcheting crimpers i use are adjustable, so i have mine quite tight. if i do any connections that are going to be on show to the eliments i heat shrink the two parts seporately so that all the moisture doesnt flow down into the connections. i usually cover the connections in the non-insulated sleeves anyways.
i know its a long winded way to do it but for things like indicators that can be removed its worth it.
cheers
dan
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LeeWat
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im with Stinkwheel on the bad earth with the lights, my KLR had a really bad earth connection that when i put on the indicators the engine cut out, quite amusing the engine cutting in and out with the flash, i had to resort to hand signals untill i found the fault.
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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 02:51 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Life in your hands on certain electrics.
do it properly or get someone to do it for you. I live in the SE if anyone ever needs any soldering done.
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teech
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

God, you all make me feel like a complete amateur!!

I haven't got a bloody clue what any of you are talking about Embarassed
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

teacher/biker! wrote:
God, you all make me feel like a complete amateur!!

I haven't got a bloody clue what any of you are talking about Embarassed


That's ok. The important point is not to join two wires by twisting the bared ends together, wrapping them in PVC tape then walking away feeling it is a job well done. There is a way of doing the job properly and if you need to do it you can either take it to a professional or ask someone how.

It would be something akin to repairing a hole in your roof by putting a bit of plastic sheeting over it then considering it fixed instead of replacing the rotten timber and putting on a new slate. I wouldn't try to fix my roof because I don't know how and I don't have to proper tools but I equally wouldn't leave it with just a bit of plastic sheeting.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Mrs Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

There is one member on here who visited our house late at night beacusae his electrics kept going on and off.

Using sellotape for the battery connectors cus you lost the screws really does not work Shocked
Regards
C
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bish777
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 03 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I, as a matter of course, removed the loom from the 1100, checked for and replaced any obvious signs of bodgery, using either crimps or soldering as appropriate.

Black silicone makes a good sealent for exposed bits.

Finally its completed with a good dose of spray on autoplast to keep the water out.
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