Basics stuff to check when buying a bike...

[G]

Seeing as the question pops up quite a lot, thought it would be worth listing it in a FAQ...

Can't be bothered to do anything now 'cos I need to go to bed ...
Feel free to add your own thoughts

[Ste]

Points to check

Body Work – Check it for damage, or damage repair
Tyres – How much tread is left? A new set of tyres can cost upto and around £200
Exhaust – Does it have a race can fitted? If so, does it have the original can with it? You will need this for MOT’s, and it asks the question has the bike been crashed, as race cans are cheaper than originals.
Chains and sprockets – Check for wear on them, ask how long ago they were replace. How much wear/ stretch is left in the chain. Check this by looking at the chain adjusters.
Wheel Bearings – Check this by lifting the bike off the ground (either with a paddock stand, or with help from someone) and check for sideways movement in the wheels. If there is, this shows worn bearings, which will need to be replaced
Head Bearings – Try and turn the bars whilst holding the wheel between your legs. Is there any place? If so, bearings will also need replacing.
Electrical – Try all lights, indicators, warning lights, cut off switches, brake lights, and anything else there might be. It should all work correctly. If not, check fuses and bulbs. Otherwise the problem could be deeper within the wiring which could be time consuming to find.
Forks – Check to see if they are smoothly moving down when leaning on the front of the bike. See if there is oil going down the fork legs, which suggests leaking seals.
Rear suspension – Bounce on the back of the bike, checking for smooth movement, and any clicks.
Frame – Check that it is free from dents, large marks, and that it looks straight. A bent frame should become obvious on a test ride. If the frame has been polished, ask why. Look for any damage repair work.
Wheels – Check rims for chips and scratches, as this indicates lots of mileage, as lots of tyre changes. Or it could have been a race bike.
Body Work – Is it very clean or tidy for a bike of this mileage and condition? If so, it could have been recently/ just replaced, to repair an accident, or it has been used as a track bike.
Foot Pegs – Have these been ground lots by the owner doing knee down? Also they will grind if it has been crashed.
Sump Plug: Has it been drilled? If so, it has been used for racing. Does it look shiny and new, and out of style with the rest of the bike. If so, it has just been replaced, possibly to hide the fact it has been drilled.
Oil – Look into the view hole, and see if it is at the correct level. Also check to see for leaks under the bike where it has been kept garaged.
Engine – Start the bike from cold. If they have warmed it up before you arrive, allow it to cool down, so you can see if starts correctly from cold. Check how long it takes to start, and if it starts again easily once warm.
Radiator – Check for chips, and repairs or damage. Repairs and replacements can be expensive.
Spare Parts – What spares does it come with, and why does it have these spares? If it has any aftermarket parts, ask for the originals to go with it.
Test Ride – Take the bike out on a ride. It is normal to be asked to leave money with the owner when you do this. Try and test it as completely as you can.
Take a Friend – Take someone with you who knows about checking bikes over, and will stop you if it is obviously a bad buy!

General Stuff

- Make sure you look into insurance before purchasing the bike. Just because the seller tells you that its cheap to insure doesn’t mean that it is. Looks at the insurance thread in this forum, or use the search function.
- Make sure that you get the V5, and all the paperwork to go with the bike. Receipts for any work that has been done helps to build a complete history.
- How much Road Tax, and MOT has it got left on it? If it’s not much, ask them if they can get them updated, and get it MOT’ed
- Haggle the price down. Most bikes are advertised for about 10% than they expect to get for it.
- Ring up previous owners if your not sure about something they say. A genuine seller will not mind giving you information about the bike and its history.
- Are you licensed to ride it? Is it learner legal, and can you get a 33bhp kit for it if you need/ want to fit one?
- Get the bike HPI checked, to see if it has been an insurance write off, it’s it stolen, and if it has any out standing finance on it. If so, do not buy it until it is HPI cleared
- Ask them why they are selling it? Find out if they actually know about the bike if it is a private seller. Genuine sellers will be happy to talk all day long about their bike
- Kit with the bike? Are they including anything with the bike? Helemts are no good second hand as you do not know if it has been dropped. Leathers and clothing needs to fit you, not them. It is not of much value to you, so don't be told "this kit is worth £xxx in the shops!" as it is worth a fraction of that unless you are thier identical twin
- Security? Does it have an alarm, immobiliser, or anything like that? If so, has it been fitted by an insurance approved workshop? Does it have the paperwork to say so? Make sure you get all the paperwork for things like DataTag, or AlphaDot.
- Where has it been stored? In a garage? Outside? Find out, as a bike which has been sat out in all weathers will be worn for it.

Further Reading

- [url= https://www.motorcyclenews.com/advice?sectionID=0&navID=81
MCN[/url]
- Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide
- The search function!

If your not sure about a bike, leave it. It’s best to look back and think “Oh, it was a good buy after all” rather than to have spent a large amount of cash on a bike that is not working, or is dodgy.

Hope this is of some help

[TiN]

Ok, just to attempt to build upon Ste's list, and possibly explain how everything should affect your decision:

[TJ NSR]

check the milages on the service book and mot, se if they match at the correct times....!

[G]

Amd just the MOT certs... my first bike (cg) I got the MOT certs but never checked 'em out... it had lower in one than the previous one!
..
And that was from a dealer!
Never got round to making a fuss, because it would have probably been more hassle for me (and lazyness )

[JimboJ]

I'm not sure if this was mentioned but:

When buying a bike never be over keen to the seller (be as keen as you want to your friends) simply because he is less likely to knock any money off it if you are stood there writing out a cheque before you buy it.
Seem a little unimpressed, tell the seller of other bikes you have been to see purely so he doesn't think he has you hook, line and sinker.
Never got to a buyer with your wallet open with wads of cash in wafting it in his face.
Never commit over the phone and under no circumstances do you ever tell the buyer how much you have to spend, because in most cases he will not drop below that.
____________________
[00:42] <NSR-Andy> which one's the missionary position
[00:42] <NSR-Andy> i've heard it's good
[9:42pm] <Shaun> you came first mike | <Shaun> yes gav, because I really want to fuck you

[Danny]

[NSR125-Kid-UK]

[divuk83]

carrying on from the whole footpegs things, the end of break/clutch levers are worth looking at as if there scratched then its been dropped/crashed. as well as non standard indicators, eg aftermarket stalk ones means the same as they are often cheaper than original ones, and the same can apply to mirrors too.
also watch for stickers etc as they can be used to hide damage and scratches.

[NSR125-Kid-UK]

I read through this post, and i've prepared this to make going over a potential bike easier for buyers. It's probably not perfect, but tell me what you think .
____________________
https://www.bikepics.com/members/nsrandy/96rs250/ My Bike!

"I'm either going to teach andy to get his knee down, or I'm going to get him killed. One of the two" - Teaman

[gtechosting]

Well this is great, thanks guys (although half of it went over my head) im sure i will get a better deal

[map]

Created a little table of registration years as it always confused me looking through adverts, calling dealers etc. to tie registration in with year.

Thought it may help other so uploaded here

[mamak]

Check out the following https://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html . This is a comprehensive guide that makes a newbie seem like an experienced biker to the seller.

[paulodd]

https://www.motobykz.co.uk/UsedMotorcycleGuide/UsedPriceGuide.htm
____________________
Paul
1999 Yamaha R6
www.coventrybikers.co.uk / www.norfolkriders.co.uk

[veeeffarr]

Back to the top, for summer

[pwntifex]

Why is this not stickied?
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the warped one: This is a follow up from the thread 'my willy hurts'

[GodzGift]

[Jamie S]

+2.

Very good post ste.