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What to look for buying second hand?

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Barker-CBR 600
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: What to look for buying second hand? Reply with quote

Did a search and did come up with a few useful threads and i heard rumour of a sticky thread in the workshop section with buying guide but had a look through and didnt find it.

Planning on buying a '98-'99 Bandit in bout a month and looking for tips on what to look for that bike or buying 2nd hand in general.

I have limited knowledge as to what to look for. Things like obvious signs its been dropped etc arent a problem, its just the more detailed stuff i could do with a hand with.

So any particular tips?

Also, anyone who wouldnt mind wasting a few hours of their time in the south east (milton keynes type area) in helping have a look i'm sure a crate of their chosen could be organised!

(might look in Manchester as well if there is anyone else around that area?)
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colour of the oil , bikes with a sight glass are easy to spot, NOT for NTVs though and bikes based on this engine oil always goes black in the first 1000 miles.

General condition of the rubbers ie footpegs and grips , although they can be replaced they indicate the true miles.

tons of other things
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't be fooled by cleanness and shininess, when it comes to bikes you can polish a turd!

Always always hear it running, get a test ride if you can but if not you need to listan to the engine. Does it start? Will it tick over? Any odd knocks, whistles etc?
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iCraig
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check if it has any service history, and if its main dealer then its a sure sign its been looked after.

On bandits check the frame closely for corrosion too.
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nick606
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PostPosted: 15:12 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for rattles from cold and if its warmed up before you get there let it cool.

check it rev smoothly and there no funny noises

Check out the owner what does he seem like epically if there a young chavy type with no mechanical sympathy.

And I got this off here somewhere which cover a lot of good things
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LeeR
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

According to RiDE Jan 2007 they offer the following advice:

Engine: camchain can start to get loose and rattle on high-mileage bikes.

Rear Suspension: original shock was cheap and cheerful, if not already replaced you may want to do it yourself. Rear linkages can seize if neglected.

Forks: original forks are also cheap, can be improved with heavier oil, and progressive springs. On high-mileage bikes check for pitting, bent forks/yolks.

Corrosion: Frame paint and lacquer on fork legs deteriorates.

Head Bearings: original fitment not well greased, might need stripping and greasing or replacing.

Carb icing: some bikes can suffer from this.

Exhausts: this is the main area of concern, the original fitment suffers from corrosion on the downpipes and collector. Some owners replace these with stainless after sales alternatives. BanditMania do stainless downpipes for £95 if you need them.

Brakes: always benefit from braided hoses and HH-rated pads.

Batteries: apparently the most common cause of breakdowns biggest culprit, leaving side-lights or alarm on,
others are: 1 failed coil, 1 pinched wire, and 1 head gasket, this from hundreds of responses to their survey.

So it looks like the only real Bandit specific problem is the exhaust downpipes and collector.
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butterob
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

im also looking for a bandit... things i was told to look out for are:

conditions of chains and sprockets
conditions of tyres
check frames exhaust downpipes etc for rust
check in usual places to see whether its bin dropped... footpegs, gear and brake levers, mirrors etc

also when going to look at a bike go 30 minutes early to make sure the bloke hasnt conveniently popped to the shops to get some milk (warmed up the bike Mr. Green )

also another thing i never take into consideration are tyres...if someones just put a new set of tyres on a bike you always have to be aware that 2 miles down the road you could easily get a puncture on one of those!

all the best Thumbs Up
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nick606
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also check for things like worn brake pads, worn tire, mis-matching tires, rusty chain and sprocket/worn, brake lights working (from both from and both brakes), indicators not working.

These can be used when settling the price. Since these are going to be a easy fix/consumables its no real reason to put you off buying as bike. Although if the owner hasn't looked after basic things they may ignore other more important things.

Take the bike for a test ride see if it jump out of any gear. See if the speedo/rev meter works. I suppose you could find out the 0-60 times of the bike and say its suppose to be 6 seconds and it is 14 seconds you know you have a problem but that also depends on how good of a rider you are really. I suppose you could do a top speed run as well but thats not really practical.

Don't be afraid to walk away. If its over priced or something up with it don't be impatient something else will come along eventually.
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Barker-CBR 600
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers all, nick606 that checklist is really helpful just adding the other main points to it and hopefully will have it all together on a piece of paper.

Will take along the check list, might look a bit stupid but hell its better to not forget anything.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barker-CBR 600 wrote:
Cheers all, nick606 that checklist is really helpful just adding the other main points to it and hopefully will have it all together on a piece of paper.

Will take along the check list, might look a bit stupid but hell its better to not forget anything.


Check that the front brake pads have equal wear. If the wear is uneven, one caliper may be binding. If the bike has any aftermarket tat attached to it (such as an undertray) make sure stuff like the indicators work.

If the bike has a can, ask if it has been rejetted or has a power commander or equivalent.
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 05 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the owner hasn't started it, tell them on the phone before you go as you want to hear it start from cold. Turn up 15mins early and you will see if the battery is on charge if its knackered. Caught a bloke re-fitting a battery he had just charged to a Z250 Scorpion I went to look at as the alternator was shot! That saved me a few quid.

Also take someone with you as you will be looking through buyers eyes and may miss things that someone else who isn't falling in love with the bike will see.
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