MOT stuff + ADDED PICs FOR YOUR AMUSEMENT

[Pie-Roe]

Right, my MOT is due in a month. I have been looking over mot websites and advice on here, and determined:


Needs both rear disc and pads (have both, just not able to fit myself, neither the tools or the knowhow just yet)
Indicators don't work, some wiring fault somewhere or relay gone, Don't have the patience to do it myself
Fork seals have a couple little cracks on them, theres nothing wrong with them, just I'm not sure they would pass
Exhaust is too loud

Also I need to get carb balance and valve clearances done reasonably soon.

Anyone care to hazard a guess on how muches I will be set back to sort these issues?
And yes I know the brakes are faily simple, but I don't have a torque wrench, wouldn't know how to bleed a system and can't actually take out an entire two days to do it all before MOT.
Soo, any guesses or advice or loopholes very welcome

Cheers
Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[----]

If you were closer to me id do it all for you,but im not so i wont

Im sure if you ask someone nicely on here that lives close to you,they will sort it for ya?

EDIT:
You dont need a tourque wrench,and you dont need to bleed the brakes either

Im not 100% sure,but if the fork seals arent leaking then they wont fail.

What bike is it?

Exhaust too loud? hole in it or off road one?

[Nb]

What makes you think you need discs and pads? Pads can have down to 1.5mm of meat left on them before its a fail. And brake discs have to be very worn to fail also....it might not be as bad as you think?
____________________
Cbr1100xx blackbird gone, mk4 golf gt tdi chav now
Colin1 wrote 'Im grateful for what i can get, which isnt all that much.'
Columbus travel insurance are crap!! Do not use!

[Pie-Roe]

Lol, I'll get a pic for you tomorow mate.
You know where you have the pad material then the metal holding it? The metal was word down in the shape of a circle where the pad should be because it should have been changed 800 miles ago.
Disc has next to no meat on it.
Put it this way, you know if you redline in neutral on a paddock stand the drive makes the wheel move a little? The rear brake as it was til this afternoon doesn't work well enough to stop that happening

Dad came home and reckons he has full socket set + brake bleeding kit + torque wrench. Nice of him to tell me. He has a very competent grasp of car brakes, is it the same principles, just gently prise the pistons back into the calipers, if they won't budge then master cylinder? If so with his help I can probably do the brakes myself, thus cutting at least 2 hours labour off what I need doing.


I just realised it's halfterm soon so I can take off the fairing and have a look for any obvious wiring faults, if I find one excellent, if not then foundry can have it to fix.

Bike is a '99 bandit 6, with a viper end can. It's apparently a little too loud to be just over and passable says 2 centres, although I could see about trekking all the way to where the previous owner got it MOT'd, it would make sense that they passed it there.

And how can I not need a torque wrench? I didn't bother with precise torque on the engine casings and sump, but I'd prefer to on the axle and the disc really.

Cheers
Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[TUG]

For mot's if its fitted it has to work, your cans loudness is totally down to the mot'er if you take it to him and its too loud, try and get hold of a db killer worked for me.
if your seals arnt leaking they should be fine.
As for your rear disc, if they are allen bolted on, get a nice grip with an allen key after heating them slightly to melt down the loctite, then undo, replace, tighten up the bolts so they are tight but not going to strip the heads, and your laughing, my discs never came off and i changed 2 before my off.
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!

[Pie-Roe]

Whats this I hear about indicators being taped up all the time then? I'm thoroughly confused by the whole issue. I don't care about not having indicators, as long as it's not illegal. It does also seem like something that would get me a tug, like I am riding now with none. Bit dangerous, but hand signals work alright, when I remember.

I'll give the brake disc a try when dad comes back off holiday, so monday I think. Electrics scare me.

On the plus side it wheels a lot nicer with no pads in whatsoever

Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[faith183uk]

Also i think you are looking at the fork dust caps and not the fork seals. They always crack etc after sometime. You wouldnt be able to see the actual seals very well without removing them.

If they arent leaking then dont worry.

Caliper pistons should push back piece of piss like you said.

[faith183uk]

Also its not as easy as just remove the indicators anymore.
Like the headlight if you have a switch on your controls for it then they must be present and working.

If you remove the indiactors and not the switch gear the MOT tester COULD fail or only issue a daylight mot. If you remove the switch gear then no problems. You can place some tape over the switch as an MOT tester isnt aloud to remove anything on the vehicle to carry out the vehicle check. Hence why fork gaitors are great if the have Knackered fork seals. Although you should never ignore fork seals if leaking

[Pie-Roe]

Ah I see, but can they not just refuse to test it?

I can remove the switchgear easy enough.

Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[timjim]

Do daytime MOTs still exist?i thought theyd ben stopped due to the arguement over poor weather conditions??

[Pie-Roe]

Heres the pics of the disc and pads as promised. I have now got the indicators working, rear brake light works, and the new pads and disc are in. Only slight problem is I've messed up the balance of the chain and tension, so I'm going to go to mechanic to get him to redo that, but thats half an hour as apposed to a lot of time.

Also have a slight knocking sound when wheeling the bike, but I think this is to do with the chain being a bit dodgy.

https://img80.imageshack.us/img80/913/1001326bf9.jpg
https://img383.imageshack.us/img383/9239/1001327eg0.jpg



Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[ms51ves3]

Did your brakes actually work?

[Nb]

Pass and advise.....
____________________
Cbr1100xx blackbird gone, mk4 golf gt tdi chav now
Colin1 wrote 'Im grateful for what i can get, which isnt all that much.'
Columbus travel insurance are crap!! Do not use!

[alun111]

I can see what you mean by the pads need changing, but what's wrong with that disc? Is it just badly grooved or something? Thickness LOOKS ok.
____________________
Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70

[veze]

ah mate. i think them pads are passed fubar'd. it scares me just thinking about getting on a bike with pads that bad, in fact i dont want to think about it. i suppose you could drag your heels on the floor ey?. It sounds daft but once when i was in leicester city, i seen an idiot on a honda vision doing that because his brakes didnt work very well. It wasnt very impressive.
____________________
tlm50,mt5,sr50. rs125 extrema, cbr 400rr nc29 suzuki gs500e.Honda cbx250 rs . FJ1200 .fz6,fjr1300

[Pie-Roe]

Disc apparently had only half a set of pad's meat left on it, if that makes sense, so it was worth changing. Um. No, no it didn't work. It wouldn't even hold the bike still on a very slight incline.

The overall thickness of the two pads + disc is just under 8mm. Which apparently is bad. I've got very good at grabbing the front brake just on the limit before it is too much.

Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[alun111]

Do yourself a favour - before you bin the old disc have a look at it. It should have the minimum thickness written on it somewhere. That's what you go by. If it's still usable keep it as a spare.
____________________
Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70

[Pie-Roe]

4.5mm is min thickness, and the disc itself is on 3. I did check, but a guy at work who used to be one of the top 10 suzuki mechanics in the UK and Europe told me just to get a new disc. After checking my manual and the disc, it turns out his judgment by eye is flawless.

Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[binge]

I built my NC29 from scratch. Without a torque wrench.

As for bits and pieces. What makes you think you need to bleed your system to change the brake pads?

And even if it does need bleeding, you dont need a fancy Kit or anything. All you need is an 8mm spanner (or whatever size the bleed nipple is).

Make sure reservoir is full, Pump pedal/lever. Hold it down, Undo bleed nipple, Do it back up. Pump lever/pedal.

Repeat until you have a working brake. And keep an eye on the reservoir level.

Also cover anything you don't want to get brake fluid on.
Unless you have some thin pipe you can connect to the bleed nipple and into an old bottle or something.


As for the indicators. take em off. And tape up the switch. job done!
Fix them at a later date.


Exhaust loud? What sort of can is it? can you not chock something in the end to make the hole smaller just for the MOT?

[Pie-Roe]

Yeah, I did the brakes today. Do I have to actually remove the indicators or is taping them up enough?

Cause I didn't have a clue how calipers or brakes worked 'til reading a how to on wikipedia. I've never had a vehicle before, first time attempting any kind of mechanical shizzle. I just assumed you needed ot take the pressure off the pistons Ie bleed the brakes to be able to push them back in.

I just undid the nipple on each side and pushed the piston in slowly forcing fluid out. Then put the wheel back on with the new disc and pads on, then pumped the pedal til they were in contact. Refilled the reservoir and that was that.

With the exhaust I found that using a soldering iron barrel held just inside the end with a bit of iron wire cut down the noise a lot.

Cheers everyone for help

Pyro
____________________
Previous: GSF600, FZR600 x2, ZXR750, XT600 Tenere, CB125, CZ125, ETZ 250, ER5, CCM R30, DRZ400, RF600x4, RF900x2, GS500, VTR1000F, 640 SMC, CB250 NIGHTHAWK, GT550x3, GPX750 TE610, CB500, X11x2, SV650, ZING 125, TL1000R,CB250 Superdream, CBR1100XX

[binge]

Erm, do your brakes work okay still?
I don't usually undo the bleed nipples unless ive got the lever pulled back.

[Vincent]

It's worth keeping an eye on brake pad wear. A front brake failure can be pretty catostrophic. If the pistons pop out, which is what can happen on some types of caliper, the front wheel will more than likely lock up - not good.

If the pads havn't been done for so long, theres a good chance that the fluid will need replacing. If the hoses are rubber, they could be on their way out too. Good brakes means more fun and can give you a lot more confidence.

[Pie-Roe]

[Kickstart]