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gsxr k1 1000 exhaust valve issues

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fuel
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 26 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 21 Apr 2008    Post subject: gsxr k1 1000 exhaust valve issues Reply with quote

well

i took off the link pipe, pain in the back side, refitted and removed a couple of times, don't ask why,

anyway now me F1 light is on the time and the dash flicks between f1 and the temp, bike still seems to run fine and the lights were not doing this before hand. so i am assuming that i have set up the valve and servo wrong, hey ho

what i need help with is,

1, what the hell is that valve thing there for and whats it suposed to do.
2, if i disconnect the wires and leave the valve and servo in place will the light go out and how will the bike run.
3, can i get a link pipe that is nice and shiny and does not have a valve and will my bike run ok
4, where do i get the above said, shiny link pipe or do i just go the hog and get a set of yoshi pipes to match me can

any help appreciated

thanks,

Fuel.............
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 15:51 - 21 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of bikes have exhaust valves these days. It's there to boost midrange, and keep the noise down. It also helps a with with emissions.

It'll run ok if you lock it open, but it'll still have a huff. I'd just take it to a dealer and get them to set it up, or ask on Gixxer Junkies, I'm sure someone's had the same problem as you before.
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fuel
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 21 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advice,

what's a huff though?

fuel......
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fuel
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, i have now taken that ****ing link pipe off, sent it to the local fabber and and getting that damn vale ripped out, having exess metal removed and the holes welded, also getting the pipe chromed so it looks nicer,

will let you know what its like when i get it back

also got a power commander to go with it

oh how i enjoyed ripping the valve cables and servo out

i like weight saving



Fuel...........
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Likely you will loose a load of power at low and medium revs, and with the electrics for the valve just disconnected it will probably still flash the fuel injection warning lights at you.

Get a copy made of the pipe at the very least. Not likely to be significiently expensive and at least means if you decide you want a bike that has power at the revs most people use most of the time you do not need to splash out on an expensive new Suzuki pipe.

All the best

Keith
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fuel
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

i wouldn't think i will loose out to much, is just making it into a straight through exhaust.

am gonna have it all set up properly with by a dyno centre with me yoshi can, k&n, and power commander

will post how it works out

Fuel.........
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuel wrote:
i wouldn't think i will loose out to much, is just making it into a straight through exhaust.


The valve is there mainly to give you the midrange. It enables them to design an exhaust system (and the rest of the tuning to go with it) which is purely designed for peak power without having to give a stuff about having thrown away all the mid range.

At the very least expect to have a large flat spot at about half peak power.

All the best

Keith
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fuel
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh right,

i was givven the impression by a couple of people that it would run like a straight through exhaust.

lets hope the power commander does it job once mapped

eeeekkkkkk

fuel........
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuel wrote:
i was givven the impression by a couple of people that it would run like a straight through exhaust.


It will, but a straight though exhaust is a fairly low tech and poor way of getting power.

However and exhaust basically works by having a tuned length. The length, how the pipes join and which ones join which is designed so that at the required revs for peak power pressure waves reach the end of the exhaust and bounce back to the exhaust valve and then back towards the end of the exhaust as the valve opens. This way the pressure waves sucks the exhaust gases from the engine.

Trouble with this is that at different revs (as the pressure waves move at a pretty constant speed, irrespective of revs) the pressure wave arrives at the wrong moment and does it best to keep the burnt gases in the cylinder.

The idea of the valves in the exhaust is to be open at high revs, gaining the benefits of a tuned length exhaust, but in the mid range they disrupt the pressure waves to prevent them pushing burnt gas back into the engine. By taking the valve out you will loose out in a fairly big way in the mid range where this problem is worst.

A power commander will do virtually nothing to fix this problem. All it can do is fiddle with the fueling and the ignition timing, and the issue has next to nothing to do with them.

All theb est

Keith
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fuel
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like i might have shit on me own door step then really.

ahhhhh

ummmm

lost for words.

think might start looking on fleebay for new link with valve

wish had bought a slip on can with the yoshi link pipe, mine is the bolt on type Sad

is it even gonna be worth getting the commander set up?

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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Depends on how long you want to ride it like that. It will help out a little. Side effect of the removing the valve is likely to be the mixture being well out in the middle (probably rich as it will be fueling for more air than the engine is demanding), but this is not the biggest likely part of the problem. At very low revs the valve missing might not have a major negative effect and the mapping probably would help here. But it you are going to change things soon then it is wasting money.

Strangely you might find the bike feels faster with the hole in the mid range. Not from a gain in peak power but because of the way the power comes in.

For race use with an experienced rider then they might well drop the valve from the exhaust. However in such a case it is with a rider who has enough experience to keep it on the boil all the time and who has the luxury of knowing which way the track goes all the time. The lack of mid range isn't really an issue for them while a bit of saved weight and a few less components to go wrong are welcome. On the road you would probably prefer not to have to concentrate on keeping the revs high all the time.

Not sure what other bikes you have ridden. Most obvious case where you can see the same effect is with an Aprilia RS125. The valve half way down the exhaust is doing much the same job as a 2 stroke power valve. Wedge the valve open on an RS125 (they do it themselves it you run round at low revs for too long) and you gain nothing at higher revs, but loose out at lower revs. On the RS the first you know about it sometimes is when you go to move off and stall (would doubt you would have that on your bike).

All the best

Keith
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fuel
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,

i've had a few bike, me first was a cbr600fw with a full straight through scorpion exhaust and k&n which i also has jetted by dhr racing in dover, bike ran great

had a standard transalp

then had a zx9r b1 with a bolt on micron can

now have my k1 gsxr 1000.

am shitting it now.

can i ask though, say i had bought a yoshi slip on with the replacement link pipe, wouldn't what you say also effect this.

i know mine is the standard pipe so i can see there will be dirrerences. but surly the replacement pipes will also suffer from the same problems as there is no valve to bounce back against.

when someone originally sugested that i remove the valve, they said that it was there to help meet noise regs.

clearly i can now see there was more to it than that.

i really want to keep the can i have, and the work on my link pipe including chrome is costing enough to make me not want to change it again.

am at quite a loss as i reall thought that the pc3 would sort any spots out.

thanks

fuel........
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Keir
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

i ditched the valve on my K4 1000 when i got my full arata system and it seems pretty darn fast in the midrange.
My mate on his K1 left the valve open on his when he swapped from a black link pipe to a titainium K2 version and reported no noticable difference.
Im usually of the thought that if its there, its there for a reason but on my experience it makes very little if any difference.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 15:58 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Would think the Yoshi pipe would cause an issue (they certainly did on the old FZRs when Yamaha first brought in these exhaust valves).

The valves do help the bikes get through noise tests as well.

The PC3 will greatly help to sort general problems with the fueling out (although there are other ways of doing it - alot of Suzuki ECUs can be directly reprogrammed to a limited extent). However if the flat spot is not caused by a mixture / ignition issue it is limited in what it can do.

Keir_K3s comment is interesting. Possible that with the power of the GSXR compared to its weight the power is still more than adequate.

All the best

Keith
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fuel
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 12 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks kick, looks like it will be interesting to see how it pans out, i will update the posts once the new link pip is fitted and the commander mapped.

until then

lots of drinking as the bike is off the road

fingers crossed for the weekend, i wanna take it to bmf

Fuel...........
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 13 May 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuel wrote:


what's a huff though?



Complain, get the hump etc. etc.

It'll still show the FI light basically because it knows the valve isn't working correctly.
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