Clutch problem, help needed.

[Rawker]

Hey workshop folk.

I have a problem,

i got pulled up at the IAM observed ride for having no free play on my clutch, but the bike seemed to ride fine.

The observer adjusted the clutch till it had free play, only problem is when i slow down to a stop, and fully pull in the lever, the bike feels like its still trying to bite.

The observer then said its the push rod (i think thats what its called) down at the clutch adjustment bit.

when i tried to adjust it, haynes said to do it till you feel resistance then back it off a 1/4 turn, so i did it till i felt the slightest resistance then off a 1/4 turn.

So i don't know whats going on.

If i have free play, the bike still trys to bite when lever is fully pulled.

If i have no free play, the bike doesn't try to bite at a stop, but im told thats not good for the bike (to have no free play)

So please? help me?

Adam

[Ben.]

do an oil change recentley?
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Race bike - R6
Road bike - sv650

[zetecy]

[Aikman666]

I think the direction half_lyfe is going in is the type of oil that you've used, not the amount. If your bike uses a wet clutch, some will not appreciate fully synth oils resulting in clutch slip at higher revs.

Doesnt sound like clutch slip to me though, just a badly adjusted clutch cable. Loosen everything until the clutch arm rests at its engaged (loosest) point. Then dial in your biting point by using the adjuster above the arm; then dial in any free play with your top adjuster.

Its honestly just trial and error.
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[Phoenix]

If you can't adjust it out using both ends then it is probably just an overstretched clutch cable, replace that first before you start looking at the clutch itself.

[finpos]

There's two lots of springyness you need to worry about:
1. The big clutch springs, these are what you pull against to disengage the clutch
2. A weak little return spring on the clutch actuating arm. This is where you get your slack from.

Here's something simple you can both try:

Go to the clutch actuating arm (i.e. the engine end of the cable), and back that adjuster all the way back, so that there is no possibility of it putting resistance onto the arm.

Get a big spanner and use it on the arm to disengage the clutch.
Let the arm spring back to rest. Then use the spanner again to see if you can move the arm any further towards in the engaged direction.

* If it moves, then the arm is partially seized.
* If it doesn't move, then the cable is seized.
* Or, a combination of the two.

What's happening is that the big springs in the clutch are strong enough to overcome the seizure, but the weak return spring is not - meaning you get no free-play.

f.

[Ben.]

if you cant see the oil level its eithier over filled, very bad, or has no oil, even worse, never use a specific amount. keep going until you get to the max level on the watch glass.

if you used car oil and not specfic motorcycle oil, you need a new clutch.
other wise you ned to adjust it to the correct amount at the lever and down by the worm drive.
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Race bike - R6
Road bike - sv650

[zetecy]

[finpos]

The spring itself is probably not the problem - it's resistance of the arm it's acting against.

First thing to do is to reassemble everything and then "help" the spring with a spanner on the arm again. If you look at the lever, some slack may magically have appeared.

If so, your two options are:
1. Soak the arm pivot in WD40 and work it back and forward with your spanner. If you are lucky, it'll free itself up.
2. If that doesn't work, you'll have to take the whole thing apart and free it up. It's a fairly easy job but will probably cost you at least a side cover gasket.

f.