1997 ER5 A-1 Intermittent starting issue

[Phil_G]

Hi,

My old crate has decided its time to drain my wallet of a bit more cash it would seem. Symptoms are thus:

I can ride it for an indeterminate amount of time and stop. Sometimes it will not restart for, what would appear again to be an indeterminate amount of time. Other times, it winds and goes straight off. Cold starting is not as hit and miss and rarely, if ever, is any choke required.

Now, I have noticed the following. Sometimes it seems to start if I open the fuel flap up. At that, I can then shut it off, close the flap and then start again and ride off. Thus, I suspsected a blocked breather, however, I dont get a "Hiss" when the tank lid opened, so I suspect it could be purely coincidental?

Noteworthy: Apparently my fuel tap was faulty last year (letting fuel through when standing), and the garage that was looking after it "sorted" it. What they done, and how, I dont know. I understand some Kawasakis are fitted with a vacuum operated shut off on the fuel tap. Could that be related to this?

Once started, it seems to run ok without misfiring so I dont think that it could be ignition related, Plugs are new, leads ok and suchlike. Also, it doesnt seem to backfire when it eventually starts and I can't strongly smell fuel. Does this seem to point to a fuelling (or lack thereof) issue?

I would appreciate any pointers with regards to what I should check to try and narrow things down a bit and hopefully resolve the issue.

ta

phil
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1997 Kawasaki ER 500 A1:- Once again, Its merely crap

[stinkwheel]

Find the starter solenoid by following the fat red wire from the battery. That wire screws down onto the top of the starter solenoid.

On the side of the solenoid, is a fuse holder. Open it and check the fuse and its wires for signs of corrosion. Especially the fat white wire, this carrys all the bikes electrics and is prone to corrosion.

If this is ok, suspect the ignition switch. I have twice had EX500 based bikes develop an intermittant ignition switch.

It's annoying because it allows the accessory circuit to switch on but hasn't switched on the ignition circuit. Therefore you get all the dash lights and the starter works but no spark.

If it wont start, try switching the ignition off then on again, try again, switch off then on again etc. If this does the trick, you need a new ignition switch.

If it isn't that, suspect the safety interlock system. Best bet is to disconnect the clutch switch snap connector and connect the black wire to the black on yellow wire using a bent paper clip or similar. Ignore the red on black. This convinces the bike safety system that the clutch is always pulled in and effectively bypasses the whole lot.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Phil_G]

[Pie-Roe]

Probably barking completly up the wrong tree, but I thought I'd ask anyway.

Does it have an aftermarket can? If so, is the fuelling out? Running lean could cause starting problems while warm (I think) due to the amount of something or other. Maybe. I might be talking bull here though, just my friend from college put on a new can and then had the same sort of problems *strangely after about 6 months*. sorted fuelling and now it runs sweet.

Pyro
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[Phil_G]