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samj6
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 01 Jul 2008    Post subject: CG electrical fault Reply with quote

Another problem with the CG!
This time it's some kind of electrical fault that makes everything flash?

With it sitting in neutral with no lights or indicators on it only shows the neutral light(like it should). Then if i turn the indicators on the neutral lights starts flashing as well as the indicator light, the indicators flash but really weakly and even the headlamp sometimes flashes?

Got my bike mate round and he first said it might be an earth wire disconnected so checked around headlamp wiring and the wiring at the back and found 3 broken wires (orange,grey and can't remember the other one) soldered them back together but nothing changed! tightened all the connections to the wires in the headlamp but it's still doing it.

And another thing ive noticed while riding is that if i turn the handlebars to the right at all the full beam light switches on but not the full beam? im guessing this was one of the broken wires but haven't tried it since? any help would be appreciated sorry about the long post lol. Cheers, Sam
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 00:30 - 02 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the wires and connections sorted.

If you still have the fault replace the battery with a new one.
Make sure the shop or you fully charge the new battery.

If the battery is not recharged by the bike then your alternator / rectifier needs replacing.
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virus
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PostPosted: 07:48 - 02 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have wiring problems.

First off, check all connections and clean them up, put them back together and smear with a bit of vaseline etc to prevent corosion.

Make sure all the earths are in place (green wires on hondas, apart from the neutral light which is a light green).

Sounds like your main loom is in bad shape near the headstock, as it seems to short when you turn the bars.

Check it all over with a multimeter and a copy of the wiring diagram, you may need a new loom if yours is too worn out and shorting.


Cheers
John
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 02 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

virus wrote:
Make sure all the earths are in place (green wires on hondas, apart from the neutral light which is a light green).


+1.

Personally, I'd buy a load of good-quality wire from Maplin and rewire it myself, making sure to properly solder and heatshrink the connections. I'm sure there's a wiring diagram for a CG available somewhere.

Oh, and do it now, before the bloody thing sets on fire.
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boredatwork
Nova Slayer



Joined: 02 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 02 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

cant add anything except to agree with all the above. had a similar problem on mine which was only rectified by re-doing everything electrical

fortunately on the cg that isnt very difficult!
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virus
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 02 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, as said, you are damn lucky its a CG, these things only need about 3 wires to run for a basic loom.

Try rewiring a complete GSX400F, thats when it gets irritating.


Cheers
John
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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samj6
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol hope it's not going to set on fire! yeh cleaned all the connections and vaselined them, checked for loose connections and all that. The casing for the wires running down the left side is too long so it folds over when i turn sharply but ive sorted that as well now. I had a look at the battery yesterday and charged it overnight on trickle charge. This morning looked inside and the liquid was all murky which i'm guessing shouldn't be like that.

Also i told my mate that when i bought the battery they said "We'll just fill it up for you" they then took it out the back and filled it with something p it back in the box and sold it to me. He said he had never heard of anyone selling a battery that needs to be filled usually come prefiled in their box? so im guessing the battery is fooked then?

No chance of me rewiring the whole bike! lol scares me looking at the amount of wiring in the headlight unit! Cheers for the help, Sam
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samj6
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 13:35 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh yeh forgot to ask where the earths are? Found one under the seat connected to the frame and a few earth wires (headlight, side and at the back) any more earth points like the one under the seat?
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

samj6 wrote:
Also i told my mate that when i bought the battery they said "We'll just fill it up for you" they then took it out the back and filled it with something p it back in the box and sold it to me. He said he had never heard of anyone selling a battery that needs to be filled usually come prefiled in their box? so im guessing the battery is fooked then?


No, that's perfectly fine. To be honest the battery doesn't sound like it's at fault. Is it an electric start model? If so does the starter work? If it does, it's fine.

Rewiring the whole bike isn't as bad as it sounds once you have a wiring diagram and you know how it all works. And it does sound like the best way to fix the problems.

When you say the headlamp flashes with the indicators on - does it flash even if it's turned off at the light switch?
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are stuck try the horn.
If the sound pitch is high you have good voltage.
If its low you have low voltage (discharged battery).

Next thing is to get a standard multi meter available at most DIY shops (or borrow one from a friend). Use it to measure voltage and resistance.
You can get one from £5 to £15 depending on which shop you visit.

The meter will tell you the voltage at any point in the electrical system and in resistance mode tell you if any wires are shorting out with each other or the frame of the bike.

If the voltage drops from one end of a wire to the other, replace the wire.
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

A battery when new is not fully charged.
It should be charged up before use.

If my battery is not fully charged when I put the indicators on the neutral light flashes (when I am in neutral).
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samj6
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Is it an electric start model?

Nope 92 with just a kick start.
Quote:
When you say the headlamp flashes with the indicators on - does it flash even if it's turned off at the light switch?

no only when the lights are switched on.

Got one of those multi meters and tested what was coming out of the battery - roughly 9 Volts from a 12 Volt battery. But if you touch the wires from the battery together theres no spark or anything and surely 9 volts would cause at least a little spark.

Anyway took it to the local bike place and they tested it for me. Told me the bike was giving out 15 Volts to charge the battery and has therefore cooked the battery. But surely if the bikes giving 15 volts that would have blown the bulbs?
Taking it back in tomorow for some other checks but i'm guessing its a dud rectifier? any ideas on the cost of a new one?
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 04 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

samj6 wrote:
Quote:
Is it an electric start model?

Nope 92 with just a kick start.
Quote:
When you say the headlamp flashes with the indicators on - does it flash even if it's turned off at the light switch?

no only when the lights are switched on.

Got one of those multi meters and tested what was coming out of the battery - roughly 9 Volts from a 12 Volt battery. But if you touch the wires from the battery together theres no spark or anything and surely 9 volts would cause at least a little spark.

Anyway took it to the local bike place and they tested it for me. Told me the bike was giving out 15 Volts to charge the battery and has therefore cooked the battery. But surely if the bikes giving 15 volts that would have blown the bulbs?
Taking it back in tomorow for some other checks but i'm guessing its a dud rectifier? any ideas on the cost of a new one?


9 Volts means the battery is flat.

14.4 to 14.8 volts is normal when the engine is on.
Thats what you need to charge the battery!

How old is the battery?

I had batterys that were not charged when new. They lasted around 2 years. And that was kickstart only.

15 Volts will not blow the bulbs.

15 Volts will not cook the battery.

Put a new battery in and make sure you charge it first!

You then need to see if something is draining the battery.
Stick the multimeter in between the + or - of the battery.
Switch meter to current measurement.
And see what happens and in which direction current flows and how much.
Also try with the engine on and the revs above 5000 rpm.
Switch light on and off etc..
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lozzypop1
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 05 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

toolhonda wrote:
A battery when new is not fully charged.
It should be charged up before use.



You can't generalise like this. Some are, others aren't.

Direct from Yuasa's site:

Quote:
Dry-Charged Batteries

1. Only commission a dry-charged battery when it is needed for a customer.
2. If fitted, remove and discard any sealing plugs, tape or foil.
3. If fitted, remove and keep normal vent-plugs and terminal covers (usually red and black).
4. For filling, use battery-grade dilute sulphuric acid of specific gravity 1.270 – 1.280 at 25°C conforming to BS3031 or better. (Note: contaminated acid with impurities can seriously damage the life of the battery, in some cases reducing this to a few days. Do not use acid from old batteries).
5. The temperature of the acid and the battery should both be at room-temperature in the range 15 - 30°C.
6. Fill each cell with acid to a level of 3 – 6mm above the tops of the separators. Fill each cell one after the other and complete the filling in one operation.
7. Leave the battery for 20 – 30 minutes and then measure the open-circuit voltage. If it is below 12.50V, charge the battery. (See Section G). If it is above 12.50V, adjust the acid-levels to the correct operating levels with dilute sulphuric acid of specific gravity 1.270 – 1.280.
(See Section D).
8. Fit the normal vent-plugs and terminal covers.
9. Wash the battery with hot water and dry it.
10. Note that performance checks on newly-commissioned dry-charged batteries with modern electronic digital testers using conductance technology are not recommended. Examples are testers supplied by Midtronics or Bosch. The results can be misleading until the battery has undergone some service use.


Surely if you don't wait the recommended time, don't test, and just charge immediately, You'll run the risk of overcharging the battery?
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 05 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were did you get that information from?

The Yuasa Technical Manual says it must be charged

A direct link to the Manual on the manufacturers website is below

https://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf
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lozzypop1
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 05 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny - This was on the manufacturers website too Smile

https://www.yuasa-battery.co.uk/automotive/technical.asp#allyouneedtoknow

(You will need to scroll down a little to section C- Commissioning, sub-entitled 'Dry Charged Batteries'

It clearly states that after the recommended standing period, If the chemical reaction doesn't achieve the correct voltage in the battery - then it needs charging. However, if it has reached 12.50V it doesn't require a top up charge.

The PDF you have linked to, states that a battery has to be fully charged before installation NOT that YOU have to CHARGE it before installation - There's a difference.
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cal91
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 23:58 - 05 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol that made me laugh!

14.8 volts is what it takes to charge a 12v battery. All battery charges put out 14.8volts (well if there on a quick charge action not trickle charge). That will not blow fuses or nack up the battery.

That guy at the garage is having your life mate, he should know that!
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a simple answer to charging the battery.
Use an automatic charger.
This will stop the battery from being over charged.

Also when you put the battery in the bike and the engine is running the bikes battery charger will be charging the battery.

Every battery I have ever bought always says in the instructions you must charge the battery before use.
Some warn if you do not the life of the battery will be reduced.

Every battery I have charged with an automatic battery charger when new has required charging.
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samj6
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:58 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeh i did think he was having me on because the haynes said the bike should put out around 17 volts but that sounds like a lot too much? When i bought the battery i did charge it up when i got home on 12 volts trickle charge for the recommended 12-13 hours then strapped it into the bike.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

toolhonda wrote:


Every battery I have ever bought always says in the instructions you must charge the battery before use.
Some warn if you do not the life of the battery will be reduced.



Strange the batteries I have sold over the years, 18 (years) of them say charge the battery if it requires it and they all say allow to stand for anything up to an hour before checking to see if they require a top up charge.

Point is Lozzypop1 has quoted a respected manufacturers instructions, you then quoted the SAME manufacturers instructions which you had mis-read and were shown to be wrong on two points.

1. Not mentioning the time required to let a battery stand.

2. Only charging if required.

If you don't let the battery start its chemical reaction it won't show a full charge even if it has the potential to reach it straight out of the box.

If you start charging in this time you WILL drastically reduce the life of the battery. Using an automatic charger will make no difference to this as it will still sense a low charge as the battery is still starting up and hasn't achieved it's potential.

The standing time is probably THE most important part of commissioning a battery. If you charge in this time you will affect the life of the battery. Simple as that.
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

No normal customer puts the acid in to the battery.
It is always done by the shop, not the customer.

If the battery is cheap type (not sealed) the shop has a big container of acid that fills many battery’s.

All the good shops insist on letting it stand and charging it before the customer can have the battery.

The bad shops do not charge the battery but still let it stand.

So standing is sorted.

There is no harm in using an automatic charger on a new battery.
If the battery needs to be charged it will charge it. If it does not it will not.

How many normal customers have a voltage meter?
Non so they can not measure the voltage.
How many shops bother to measure voltage?
I bet most will simply put an automatic charger on it.

The link I found does read differently to the other link posted.
So I will admit you should check if the battery needs to be charged.
But checking can be done automatically by the automatic charger or manualy by a voltage meter.
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sickpup
Old Timer



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PostPosted: 17:43 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

toolhonda wrote:
No normal customer puts the acid in to the battery.
It is always done by the shop, not the customer.



Wrong. Most batteries these days come with included acid packs or at least virtually all the ones I sell do. In fact the one fitted a month ago to Lozzypop1's bike that I supplied came with an acid pack.

toolhonda wrote:


If the battery is cheap type (not sealed) the shop has a big container of acid that fills many battery’s.



Wrong again. See the above reply.

The restrictions on sending bulk Sulphuric acid by carrier have also been clamped down so that many places can now only deliver with in 25 miles.

toolhonda wrote:


All the good shops insist on letting it stand and charging it before the customer can have the battery.



And many shops realise that a customer has the intelligence to actually fill their own battery from the included acid pack. Most customers don't want to return to the shop a few hours later.

Many people own their own charger.

toolhonda wrote:


The bad shops do not charge the battery but still let it stand.

So standing is sorted.



But the point of this conversation is that you didn't mention letting the battery stand but that it should be charged to bring it to its full potential leaving out leaving it to stand, potentially damaging the battery before its even been used.

toolhonda wrote:


There is no harm in using an automatic charger on a new battery.
If the battery needs to be charged it will charge it. If it does not it will not.



There is if the battery hasn't been left to stand as the battery would be reading a lower voltage than that which it could potentially achieve by itself therefore the charger would OVERCHARGE the battery.

toolhonda wrote:


How many normal customers have a voltage meter?
Non so they can not measure the voltage.
How many shops bother to measure voltage?



I generally don't bother as in my experience its never needed.

For your information I also have a load tester so if I feel it's appropriate I load test.

When did you last load test a bike battery?

toolhonda wrote:


I bet most will simply put an automatic charger on it.



Doesn't mean its right to do so.

toolhonda wrote:


The link I found does read differently to the other link posted.
So I will admit you should check if the battery needs to be charged.
But checking can be done automatically by the automatic charger



Not the way you think it can and regardless an auto charger will always initially attempt to charge a battery regardless of its state of charge.

toolhonda wrote:


or manualy by a voltage meter.



ONLY after the battery has been allowed to stand
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toolhonda
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery market has obviously changed a lot since I last had to buy a battery.
It was around 5 years ago.

Before that I had to have a new battery every 2 to 3 years for over a decade.
Never was I able to buy a non sealed battery and put the acid in myself.
Every shop I went to insisted that they put the acid in since the acid was stored in a massive container to fill many batterys.
They also gave me no option but to wait at least 30 mins for the acid to settle.

One shop never charged or checked if the battery needed charging.
Another shop insisted I would have to come back 1.5 hours later to alow them to charge it.

I bet you will find the average motorcylist does not have a battery charger.
The same applies to car drivers.
Yes lots of us do but most do not.
The only reason I got one was because my alarm kept draining the battery.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say I'm an 'average motorcyclist' and I own an Optimate Battery Charger and have personally filled and prepped two batteries that I have had posted to me with the included acid packs.
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lozzypop1
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 06 Jul 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

toolhonda wrote:
The battery market has obviously changed a lot since I last had to buy a battery.
It was around 5 years ago.

Before that I had to have a new battery every 2 to 3 years for over a decade.
Never was I able to buy a non sealed battery and put the acid in myself.


How many normal, run-off-the-mill motorcyclists buy their batteries off the internet?
I VERY MUCH DOUBT that suppliers selling on-line are allowed to pre-fill batteries then pop them in the post.

My original point however - was that you don't ALWAYS have to charge a new battery (as you seem so quick to always recommend) - doing so might actually shorten the lifespan of the new battery (as Sickpup pointed out above.) I see you nearly admitted you were wrong to state this, so I'll leave you guys to your debate! Wink
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