2001 Bandit 600 in storage for 4 years trouble.

[NOTAR]

First post.

I just bought a 2001 Bandit 600 that's lived in a garage for the past 4 years. When I bought it, it would Idle with the choke on, but not rev. I felt it was lucky that it even turned over.

Compression is Great on all 4 cylinders, and has new plugs, and they all get good spark. I knew that the carbs would need a good cleaning, so I pulled them. I did find some plugged ports, and jets, and removed the epa slugs and removed the air mixture screws. With the sledge removed, I was confident that it would run again.

Carbs back in bike, new gas(in a spotless tank, and new fuel filter), the bike fired within seconds with choke. Bike also would run when choke was removed, BUT it returns to Idle very slow when releasing the throttle(Cable and throttle mechanism return very fast). I bench sync'ed the carbs, and will have some sticks by weeks end for a proper sync. I haven't checked the valves yet, and put it off due to the good compression, and worked the carbs first. Bike has 6k miles, and I'll check the valves tomorrow, and at the same time triple check all vacuum lines. Bike also has new oil and filter.

With the carbs returning to idle very slow, I've checked for air leaks by spraying starting fluid on both sides of the carbs when the motor is cool, and no increase in RPMS. I've also double checked that all diaphragms are in good shape, and well seated, and triple checked that all have the spring in place(first thing I checked).

Also when I go to adjust the idle setting, I turn the screw, and it takes 10-15 second for the motor to react to the adjustment. The motor wants to Idle at 2000 rpms, and very small movements will make it drop to 1200.

Does this sound like a vacuum problem??

Next is the valve adjustment, then the sync when my sticks get here, and this might solve the issue.

Air mix screws. I removed the slugs, and turned them in to find the bottom, all of them were 1 3/4 turns out from the bottom, and I have them set to the same place. I don't think I will adjust them until after the sync.

Plugs are gapped with proper NGK's, and are slightly grey/black, not wet or fouled, and I'm on my 2nd set just to try it out.

My service manual doesn't really have any checks for the vacuum system, it just says to bring parts to a dealer.

If after the valves and sync don't solve the problem, I'll re-hose all vacuum lines, and buy new diaphragms and springs for the carbs. Petcock is working correctly, and no fuel or vent line kinks. I don't have the charchoal canister for gas vapor, but do have lines running to the exhaust side of the head.

Any quick ideas? I'm sure I'm over looking something.

Thanks

[chris-red]

[Kickstart]

Hi

I would agree. And to be honest until you have balanced the carbs I would not worry too much.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[iooi]

Give it a run to clear it out properly. Might take a while to get all the stuff out of the carbs and everything nice and free.
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

[quik_d]

[NOTAR]

I adjusted the valves today, and none were out of spec, but I did loosen a few of them. Things looked good under the cover.

I added a 50/50 mix of fuel and seafoam into the carbs, and reved the motor a bit. It will sit like this for a few days until I get my sticks and get a good sync. I won't have to look at the valves for another 4000 miles or so(3700 by the book).

I checked again for air leaks around all the boots with starter fluid, and no leaks, and all vacuum line look ok. The box that all the lines goto, seemed to be in working order, it's just a box with reeds that act like one way valves.

#3 cylinder was a bit slow to warm up, so I might still have a blockage in the carbs, I changed plugs to make sure it wasn't a plug issue.

4 years of varnish is a bugger.

Thanks for the tips