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Bleeding brakes.

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Davie_G71
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Joined: 18 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Bleeding brakes. Reply with quote

Hello.

I have a 97 GSXR600 SRAD and the brakes aren't great. I know this is by default, but i can almost get thelever to touch the grip sometimes.

Going back to fettling with cars, i bled brakes by depressing the brake and opening the nipple, let the liquid or air come out and then tighten the nipple and repeat.

Is it exactly the same for bikes? Are there any pitfalls i need to be aware of?

Can anyone advise on the best fluid to replace the old stuff with, and any other tips would be awesome.

I'm thinking braided lines will help the feel of them, but want to try bleeding them before i start to dismantle it and have a gander at the pistons etc.

Cheers!

D
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MarJay
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to put a tiny bit of pressure on the lever, open the nipple, draw back the lever slowly and then close the nipple before the lever meets the bar while you still have positive pressure on it. If you do not do this you will draw air back into the system.

Make sure the fluid level never drops below the 'min' level.

Braided lines are good, but not a cure-all and really GSXR brakes ought to be pretty good. It is possible that you need to refurbish your master cylinder - but as you say bleed the lines first and see what the result is.
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Mr.Everready
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Joined: 28 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought one of these a year or 2 ago, one of the best tenners I've spent.


https://i9.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/04/af/e303_1.JPG

Use DOT4 brake fluid.

With one of these bleeders you can do both front brakes in 15-20 minutes on your own.

Also have a look at the stickys at the top of this workshop section.
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Davie_G71
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one, sorry didn't give the stickys a second thought.

Where did you get your bleeder from? I presume its a vacuum one?

Marjay, what about replacing the fluid altogether? If i had a vacuum would i just suck all of the fluid out and replace and repeat the bleeding process?
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bleeder is made my Motrax, called Little Bleeder. It's just a non return valve.
Slip it on the nipple ( Razz ) open it and pump the lever. Keep topping up the fluid until its clear all the way through.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davie_G71 wrote:
Nice one, sorry didn't give the stickys a second thought.

Where did you get your bleeder from? I presume its a vacuum one?

Marjay, what about replacing the fluid altogether? If i had a vacuum would i just suck all of the fluid out and replace and repeat the bleeding process?


Well, until recently I simply pumped all of the fluid out through the nipple and then refilled and bled the system. However, I've been told not to do this as it takes an age to re bleed the system. Apparently the preferred method is to draw out the old fluid and continue to top it up with new fluid until the fluid coming out of the caliper is clean.

Dunno which way is really best though, and I've never had very good results from brake bleeding kits or jam jars full of fluid or non return valves. The non return valve in particular seems to let more air into the system than it removes via a gap between the thread of the nipple and the caliper.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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djr
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Joined: 09 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Dunno which way is really best though, and I've never had very good results from brake bleeding kits or jam jars full of fluid or non return valves. The non return valve in particular seems to let more air into the system than it removes via a gap between the thread of the nipple and the caliper.


Never had much luck with any of the above.

https://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=3561 does me nicely though Smile.
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MaybeGuy
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Joined: 12 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
brakes aren't great. I know this is by default


erm, what? its 4 pot calipers as its a 600. the 750's had the 6 pot which were the ones renowned for being dire.
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Davie_G71
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PostPosted: 08:20 - 18 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Erm what, what?

The SRAD massive seem to concur, there are numerous threads on the brakes being dire.

Remember i'm not quoting how the bakes were as new, only what they feel like after 11 years of some decent abuse on 2 countries.

Anyway, i'm going to strip and clean them and have a cander at the pistons to see what they are like. I'll change the fluid at the same time and eventually to the lines.

If it's no good after that i'll refurb or change the MC.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 18 years, 15 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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