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fork seals. going to do them myself (UPDATE AND QUESTIONS)

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befdelta7
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 07 Sep 2008    Post subject: fork seals. going to do them myself (UPDATE AND QUESTIONS) Reply with quote

hi,
one quick question, my forks seals on my cagiva supercity 125 'went' a few months ago now the mot's due im in need of some answers.

the seals leaked all the oil out the forks months ago, can a put it in for the mot with the forks as they are? there not leaking but dont dampen as they did before the seals 'went' would this pass the mot do you think?

cheers!!
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Last edited by befdelta7 on 16:07 - 17 Sep 2008; edited 2 times in total
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 07 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are not leaking because there is no oil in them.When you put the oil in they will leak again.
I don't know about mot but I would think it's best to put new seals and oil in them.

Paddy.
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befdelta7
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Joined: 24 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 09 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

right as the title says, im going to do them my self.
iv got a manual and have had a read through it, i understand the ins and outs of these dam things now!

is it an easy job to do? they are the usd type forks aswell Exclamation
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 09 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've watched a few videos on YouTube as I'm planning on doing mine soon. One guy changed them in 15 minutes.

Clicky

Clicky

Not sure about the method of getting the seal out by using the fork as a slide hammer as my TZR manual says you should just pull them apart.

Hopefully someone will clarify if this is OK as I would like to know too.
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befdelta7
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 09 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

if my understanding is correct all i have to do is:
Arrow undo the top fitting on the top of the slider
Arrow compress the slider untill the inner rod extends out the slider and exposes the 2 half stopper things
Arrow empty the oil from the slider tube by pumping the slider up and down
Arrow remove the slider out of the fork leg
Arrow remover the dust seal, clamp ring and prize out the oil seal from the fork leg
Arrow clean the seal seating area
Arrow replace the dust seal and clamp ring onto the slider
Arrow place the new oil seal into the fork leg and slide the slider tube into the fork leg
Arrow impact the oil seal into its seat with pvc pipe and a mallet
Arrow fill up the slider with correct oil giving the slider a few pumps while filling the slider, then retighten the top fitting
JOB DONE Question

anyone feel free to point out anything i have missed, will be very helpful

thank you all Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 09 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

befdelta7 wrote:
if my understanding is correct all i have to do is:
Arrow undo the top fitting on the top of the slider
Arrow compress the slider untill the inner rod extends out the slider and exposes the 2 half stopper things
Arrow empty the oil from the slider tube by pumping the slider up and down
Arrow remove the slider out of the fork leg
Arrow remover the dust seal, clamp ring and prize out the oil seal from the fork leg
Arrow clean the seal seating area
Arrow replace the dust seal and clamp ring onto the slider
Arrow place the new oil seal into the fork leg and slide the slider tube into the fork leg
Arrow impact the oil seal into its seat with pvc pipe and a mallet
Arrow fill up the slider with correct oil giving the slider a few pumps while filling the slider, then retighten the top fitting
JOB DONE Question

anyone feel free to point out anything i have missed, will be very helpful

thank you all Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up


You've missed out the hard bit which is undoing the damper rod bolt from the bottom of the fork leg. You either need some weird long custom fork tool that is specific to that bike, or you need to make a weird long custom fork tool, or use an air impact wrench.

I usually use an air impact wrench.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 09 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some garages might pass them with no oil in, but its probably for the best to get them sorted.

the hardest bit is getting the front of the bike off the ground. Makre sure you loosen all bolts whilst its on the ground to avoid tipping it off the jack or something!
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FerretFing
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Joined: 12 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 09 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

at least you`ve saved yourself some time by emptying the oil first Shocked

I made a tool (pic) for holding the damper rod on my Er5 using socket extensions until long enough + using a 8mm socket at the very end.

Thought I`d post it just in case it helps Thumbs Up
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 10 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is best to open the top nut while pushing down on the fork as it is fine tread and can get messed up if you don't.
Second video.

Paddy.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 01:34 - 10 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post a picture of the forks.4.One of each one just over the seals(6 in) and the same from the back of them.Just to see if there is more damage from no oil.

Paddy.
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ms51ves3
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Joined: 08 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 06:57 - 10 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy Blake wrote:
It is best to open the top nut while pushing down on the fork as it is fine tread and can get messed up if you don't.
Second video.

Paddy.


Is the method in the second video of separating the forks OK or would it damage components?
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befdelta7
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 10 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanx for the replys lads!

paddy: ill try to get a few pics, if i come across the camera.

i got round to fitting new sprockets and all round brake pads today as the weather was sunny (makes a change) but the chain was too long, by about 4links i think. any ideas how to cut it shorter? was thinking of using the dremel and grinding the the pin then pushing it out with a small drill bit or something. tryed some chain tool thingy, pin didnt even budge!

just waiting on the fork seals to arrive and then i can get going fitting them.
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befdelta7
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi people,

well, i just thought id take the old fork seals off as im bored, im still waiting on the new ones arriving.
10 mins later the old ones are out Exclamation Exclamation Laughing
taking off the brake caliper is harder lol. thought it was a hell of a lot harder than that.

anyways,
i undone the top nut at the top of the forks, pulled the 2 half circle washer type things off the damper rod then the bloody stanchion fell out the bottom of the fork tube! i didnt need to do anything else, no undoing the nut at the bottom of the forks or anything! super simple to do, was really confused as people have been mentioning that its a bastard job to do. must just be lucky to have forks that are so simple.

all i got to do now is play the waiting game with regards to the new seals arriving.

i had a look over the forks and the bushes are in good condition, the seal on the caliper side was knackered, the seal on the otherside was fine. there was a slight amount of oil on the caliper side and it was black! the other side had loads of oil in it and it was red, still as new!

just got a question(s) for the people in the know:

Arrow how much oil goes into the 1992 supercity forks? the manual says 94 cubic inches i think.
Arrow and how do i bleed the oil once the forks have be topped up? just put oil in there, put the thing back together and pump the stanchion up and down a few times?

thanks for your replys!! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

befdelta7 wrote:
the manual says 94 cubic inches i think.

Well if it is 94CI, then:
94 cubic inches = 1.54038402 liters
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better check on the amount of fork oil you need, 94 cubic inches sounds way too much, you sure its not 94cc?

No need to bleed, the oil sorts it self out.
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befdelta7
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Well if it is 94CI, then:
94 cubic inches = 1.54038402 liters


i know that, i wanted to know if people had any info, as sometimes the manual states wrong. was hoping stew or collin was about because both of them own and have owned supercitys so maybe they have diffrent views.

any answers on the other question?

thanks
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befdelta7
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Better check on the amount of fork oil you need, 94 cubic inches sounds way too much, you sure its not 94cc?


hold on 2 secs ill just check and report back, maybe i did get it wrong lol.
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befdelta7
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 17 Sep 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep i did get it wrong, its 24.4 cu in of SAE 7.5 oil to be pored into the forks(400cc)

also whats this mean in 'normal' terms?
"pour 24.4 cu in of SAE 7.5 type oil inside the rod, by extracting the sliding element from the bearing pipe till the plug hole is open"
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