Puncture Protection for Tubed tyres

[astroscope]

Hi Guys,
My Honda CG125 has developed a a puncture on the rear tyre. I have been advised that my tyres have an inner tube because of the spoked wheel. It will cost me about £40 to get the whole bike to a garage and let them do the work. Otherwise it's £18 if i wanted to take off the wheel and deliver this to them, and have them replace the inner tube.
Can anyone recommend a puncture protection system for my bike? I'm willing to spend the extra cash for a good quality system because this week has been quite frustrating using alternative transport.

I know there is something called "Sludge" out there, but this leaves a a bit of a mess.
I use kevlar tyres on my bicycle and these have been fantastic!
Is there anything similar for a motorcycle that will help limit punctures?
Many thanks
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2010 Honda FES S Wing 125

[Finglonga]

Why not buy an inner tube and fix it yourself? It will only cost the price of a tube then.
____________________
Andy Sez....
F.Y.Y.F.F.

[astroscope]

What type of inner tube? Where can i buy this from?
____________________
2010 Honda FES S Wing 125

[doggone]

You'd get the size from the tyre
Then you could look on google...

[Ariel Badger]

Changing tyres is easy once you know how to do it. Getting to know how to do it is a bugger.

Tube Motorcycle Tyre Repair Instructions

In this method of puncture repair the wheel and tyre must be removed from the motorcycle.

These steps could include removal of the brake callipers for easier extraction of the wheel from the forks or swingarm also the removal of chain or belt drive or the shaft drive to extract rear wheel. The procedures are set out in your handbook.

After removing the wheel Instructions:

1. Inspect and remove any nails, screws, or impediments that may have punctured the tyre using pliers or any similar tool.

2. Now comes the task of removing the wheel. In this case we will talk about the front wheel and how to remove it. By now you should have located the object puncturing your tyre and removed it using a suitable tool and marked it with chalk where the object was found in the tyre and marketing on the sidewall of the tyre the alignment of the tyre to the valve stem whole. When removing the wheel it is important to make sure the bike is standing safe on the ground or supported to help in this process. Now we can start to remove the wheel firstly on the Fork leg there will be one or two retaining cap head screws or bolts these need to be undone so the axle can now be undone and removed the callipers may also need to be removed this allows the wheel to come out from under the guard let the callipers hang on the hydraulic lines carefully putting all nuts and bolts back in their place so you don't lose then.

3. The removal of the back wheel is a similar process with the exception of removing the chain, belt drive, or sliding the wheel off the final drive unit (differential or final drive unit)

4. Next lay the wheel down taking care not to damage the disk as it can be easily damaged.

5. Next remove the black valve cap and remove the valve using the valve removal tool. All air should now be out of the tyre and tube and you can now use your feet or hands to debead the tyre from the rim.

6. Using a pair of tyre levers start on either side of the valve approximately 50 millimetres each side and pulling the tyre up and over the rim making sure that the tyre stays in the deeper part of the well this will give you clearance to remove the tyre. By taking out the left-hand tyre lever and moving in a clockwise motion placing the tyre lever between the rim and the tyre every 50 millimetres and lifting the tyre over the rim repeat until tyre is off one side. By placing your hands inside the tyre at the valve and by lifting the valve and pulling the tube toward you. You should now have removed the tube from the wheel and tyre.

7. Put the valve back in the tube you may need to inflate the tyre to find the puncture.

8. After locating the puncture mark it with chalk so when you remove the valve and you can find the puncture again.

9. You now need a small piece of sandpaper or a ruffing agent to remove the shiny surface of the tube this needs to be done, as the patch will not stick unless you do this.

10. You now need to apply an amount of glue to stick your patch.

11. You now have to locate an appropriate patch for the job there is several sizes to choose from, there is a metal side to the patch and a clear plastic side. Remove the metal leaving the clear plastic on.

12. You must apply a small amount of glue to patch and allow to dry.

13. Now both the tube and the patch should be dry.

14. Place the patch on the centre of the puncture and by using a coin rub gently on the plastic to remove the plastic and help bond the patch to the tube do not inflate at this stage.

15. Now is when you should be very careful in replacing the tube inside the tyre. First you need to align the chalk mark on the tyre with the valve hole in the rim then you need to place the tube on top of the tyre by lifting the tyre with one hand and put in the valve stem into the rim hole now lifting the tyre and gently pushing the tube back inside the tyre holding the valve stem with one hand and putting the locknut on with the other. By using a 12 Volt air pump place a small amount of air to inflate the tube a little this stops the tyre levers from pinching the tube. Now starting at the valve push the tyre back on only when the tyre gets too tight do we use tyre levers to finish fitting the tyre. You can now inflate the tyre to the correct pressure replace the valve cap.

16. The puncture repair should now be done tyre is inflated and ready to go back.

17. Replacing the wheel is a reverse of the previous steps in removal.

18. Now one final check is required to make sure all nuts and bolts are tight and wheel and tyre safe to ride on.

19. Note action taken to remove wheel is general and not specific to any model refer to owners handbook for your relevant information.




Warning: it is not recommended that sidewall punctures be repaired.

Plugged repairs should not be considered permanent.
Get the tyre professionally repaired or replaced as soon as possible.
Ride slowly after repair is made until professional repair can be performed as a blowout at high speed can result in injury or death.















Written by Michael Smith
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Bikers make great organ donors, get 115 on your licence today.

[ms51ves3]

Sludge only really makes a mess on tubeless tyres because when the tyre is taken off all the sludge is there. With a tubed tyre the sludge is inside the tube, as the tube is never opened up it's not very messy.

A new tube in my RX-S was £5. £18 is a lot of money for a tube plus fitting.

[astroscope]

Thank you for those detailed instructions Michael Smith. Maybe i will try this out on the weekend. In the meantime, i have pumped up the rear Tyre using a foot pump. The Tyre hasn't gone flat yet. I tested this yesterday and it is still the same. I just pumped it up a little more this morning before coming to work.
Anyway, this sludge thing seems to be the only out there that helps prevent punctures. Once installed, can i forget about it? I mean, if was to get a puncture, the sludge will seal it up tight, right? So i never need to replace the inner tube again?
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2010 Honda FES S Wing 125

[doggone]

[astroscope]

The Valve is fine. I got a puncture and had taken the Nail out.
To get the bike fixed, Im getting quotes between £30-£40.
So the sludge thing seems to be something im considering. If it can make the inner tube puncture resistant, then it a cheaper alternative...
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2010 Honda FES S Wing 125