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nitro r/c cars, anybody know anything about them

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kenny
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 10 Nov 2008    Post subject: nitro r/c cars, anybody know anything about them Reply with quote

i have got my cen nitro r/c car out of the cubboard thats been in there for 3 years and as the fuel has turned to marmalade in the system i am in need of some advise and spares for it


needing a good way of cleaning out the fuel system and engine and where can i get some spares for it ( are cen still in business)

cheers
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 10 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

And next time before you lay it up spray some WD40 into it. Used to work on mine.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 07:22 - 11 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought you were supposed to put castor oil in if you're going to lay it up for a while... I bet my plane is marmaladed now though!
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MattHirst
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 11 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your not going to run it for a while you should of just let the engine idle until it had run dry and then stuck some after run oil in it.

But seen as though it has all gummed up then you will probably have to get a new tank (unless it has a large filler cap and you can clena it easily), change the fuel tubing (pressure line won't need changing, only the fuel line). Take the engine apart (pullstart off, cylinder head off, carb off) and simply clean them out with WD40 and give them a quick wipe over afterwards. Then just give them a quite coating of oil on the bearings, either end of the conrod etc.

For the carb just take the needles out and give them a good clean out and put them back in (and find out what the factory settings are and put them back in according to them)

It will want a new glowplug aswell, you haven't given enough information to be able to reccomend which plug to use so maybe ask your local modelshop.

It also maybe worth stripping the car down and cleaning it all, cleaning out the bearings with some WD40 and put some fresh bearing oil in there. A lot of dust will of settled everywhere and if you run it, it will just munch on your bearings for fun.

I've been into r/c cars for going on 8 1/2 - 9 years now, so need any help then just ask Smile
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kenny
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 14 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for advise i have managed to free off my engine and clean out the tank need to change the fuel pipes, stripping down the wheels and suspension at mo give them a good clean.
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kenny
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 14 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattHirst wrote:
If your not going to run it for a while you should of just let the engine idle until it had run dry and then stuck some after run oil in it.

But seen as though it has all gummed up then you will probably have to get a new tank (unless it has a large filler cap and you can clena it easily), change the fuel tubing (pressure line won't need changing, only the fuel line). Take the engine apart (pullstart off, cylinder head off, carb off) and simply clean them out with WD40 and give them a quick wipe over afterwards. Then just give them a quite coating of oil on the bearings, either end of the conrod etc.

For the carb just take the needles out and give them a good clean out and put them back in (and find out what the factory settings are and put them back in according to them)

It will want a new glowplug aswell, you haven't given enough information to be able to reccomend which plug to use so maybe ask your local modelshop.

It also maybe worth stripping the car down and cleaning it all, cleaning out the bearings with some WD40 and put some fresh bearing oil in there. A lot of dust will of settled everywhere and if you run it, it will just munch on your bearings for fun.

I've been into r/c cars for going on 8 1/2 - 9 years now, so need any help then just ask Smile


the engine i think is a cen nt-16 i will def need a new glow plug as i have lost the one that was in it, what oil would you coat the engine in before i run it would a little 3-1 do. plus what sort of fuel should i run it on as i think theres dif grades of nitro fuel.
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MattHirst
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 14 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Model shops sell specific 'after run oil', not sure what type of oil it is exactly but i wouldn't use any random oil as it may/probably will bung up your new plug and render it useless Razz

It was most likely just run on regular 16% fuel, so just get some more of that (don't bother with 20%+ if you aren't racing). There are different brands and people will tell you which is best or whatnot but really if you are just messing around with it you won't notice the difference.
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daz_d_biker
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 14 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

After-run oil is a big waste of money, just use good ol' WD40!

I run my cars on 25% nitro, but 'apparently' you shouldn't change from what you ran your engine in on. If you used to run it on 16%, keep it on that.

Buy a few glow plugs as spares. what type of car is it?

Daz.
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kenny
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 17 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

i got myself some spares fortunaly the place i got them said cen did go out of business about 3 years ago but they had some spares still in.

the car is all built up bar the suspension need to find out the factory settings for the carb but i dont know how im going to find it out,

The car i have is a cen nt-16 with a merc clk gtr body on i will post up some pics when its up and running.
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kenny
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 21 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

argh im getting well anoyed with my car i have got it all ready to run but need to set up the carb and have no idea how it work i can get it to tick over but when i give it some throttle it die's, i know there are 3 adjustments on it the one by the fuel in line the one under the air filter and one at the side where the throttle move but not to up on how glow engines work. any ideas please as im pulling my hair out over it
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MattHirst
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 21 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like its running to rich and bogging down, to the point of stalling.

Try screwing the low range in 1/8th of a tune at a time, then you can start fannying around with the HSN (high speed needle) to get it running nice on the top end with a big of blue-ish smoke coming out of the exhaust.

Can't help you with the mid range needle, never had an engine with one Razz
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kenny
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 21 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the help anyway i have tried ages on it i might have a snoop about my locol model shop tomorrow and see if they know how to set it up either that or ill give it to my mate to sort out oh just a quick one my pump on my tank has snapped but i mangaed to bodge it with a bolt just should the fuel tank be fully air sealed to build up the back pressure from the exhuast or should it have a slight gap around from where the pump was, cheers
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MattHirst
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 21 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needs to be totally sealed to create pressure, this is what forces fuel into teh carb/engine.

If the pumper thing has broken and just seal it up with some sealent or whatnot and when you come to prime it (same effect as pressing your pumper)

Just put your finger of the exhaust and pull the starter cord a few times until you see fuel reach teh carb (this is why they use clear fuel tubing Wink ) If you need to prime it while the engine is hot, you can get a exhaust stopper, its just a rubber cone that you stick in your exhaust outlet, but i just normally put a rag over my thumb and do that Razz
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kenny
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 21 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for that big help Thumbs Up
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daz_d_biker
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 25 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

as a loose guide the screw on the side of the carb should be level with the housing. This is the slow running needle. the big one thats near your fuel inlet is your main jet so to speak and will directly effect the slow running jet. try a google search to find out your factory settings for the carb and work from there. I always do a spit test on the engine if i have a feeling its running really lean. (lean is screwed in too much, rich the opposite.)

If it bogs and dies, and doesn't start for a while your running too lean. should have plenty of blue smoke out of the exhaust too. if you haven't its another sign of it being lean. Weather can often effect the way your engine runs and you will have to tune it accordingly.

After a while it becomes second nature knowing what to turn how much. Only adjust the fuel mixture 1/8th of a turn at a time remember unless its a LONG way out.... Hope this helped!!

EDIT: Just did the google search for you. The factory settings on the carb is 3 turns out from all of the way in on the high speed needle and 1/2 turn in from flush on the low speed needle, idle gap (the gap between the slide and carb housing when you take the filter off) at 1 to 1.5 mm.

Daz.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 25 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tagging to the thread,
I'm looking at getting a Helicopter, any recommendations?
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MattHirst
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 25 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have any experience in flying before? If you have but not vast experience then go for an electric one, maybe around 20" dia rotors. They are still very capable machines, just a little easier to fly than the gas ones Wink
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daz_d_biker
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PostPosted: 01:18 - 26 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 3dx 450 Heli. Just so you know, RC Heli's are VERY difficult to fly. It would take you hours of practice a week. If you imagine controlling elevation, forward and back, left and right pitch AND moving the tail all at the same time.... you get a basic image. Then imagine trying to do it with the nose of the heli towards you. Some of the controls are backwards, some are not. To get good, you need to buy a Simulator that your controller connects to- it's a must. Personally I didn't have enough time to put into flying to get any good. after about 2/3 months flying once a week, I could hover without moving(ish) and move the tail 90 degrees to the left and right and hover like that.

It's a difficult thing to do but very rewarding and i suppose I found it hard because I started with quite an advanced helicopter.

If your only just starting out then i'd suggest a 'medevac' as you can use them indoors and are good to learn with as they don't always break blades e.t.c. every time you crash.

medevac- https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Twister-Medevac-Bell-4-Function-RC-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ250327452728QQihZ015QQcategoryZ123847QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Remember if you want to learn to fly a proper RC Heli, get a 4 channel one.

Darren.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 26 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

About 15 years ago i had a concept 30 but tried to run before I could walk. I used the stabilisers for a while but ended up crashing it by not giving it enough room to fly in. Put it in a box and forgot about it. i still have it but know it would probably be cheaper to buy new than try to fix the old one.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 26 Nov 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattHirst wrote:
Needs to be totally sealed to create pressure, this is what forces fuel into teh carb/engine.

If the pumper thing has broken and just seal it up with some sealent or whatnot and when you come to prime it (same effect as pressing your pumper)

Just put your finger of the exhaust and pull the starter cord a few times until you see fuel reach teh carb (this is why they use clear fuel tubing Wink ) If you need to prime it while the engine is hot, you can get a exhaust stopper, its just a rubber cone that you stick in your exhaust outlet, but i just normally put a rag over my thumb and do that Razz


It's much easier to just take the pipe off that goes from the exhaust to the tank (at the exhaust end) and blow through that.
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