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Divvy 600 will not idle. Carb icing?

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knocker
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 01 Dec 2008    Post subject: Divvy 600 will not idle. Carb icing? Reply with quote

Went to start the bike to go to work at 5.30 this morning and although I can get it to start it will not idle at all. If i leave it ticking over with the choke open then it will idle rather roughly for a few minutes before stopping, if i close the choke then it dies immediately.

I have just been out now and run it for a good half an hour to get everything hot and although it will now idle with the choke off, it seems very very lumpy and the revs keep dropping to around 500 before picking up again.

If I rev it then it seems fine over 2000 revs althoguh it does seem to be taking a bit longer to pick up when i give it some gas.

I'm hoping it's just the cold that's causing the probs as i really can't be doing with going to work in the car as it's a £7 per day round trip as opposed to less than £2 on the bike.

Anyone got any suggestions?


Last edited by knocker on 07:27 - 02 Dec 2008; edited 1 time in total
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 01 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine was like that until I set the float heights and balanced the throttles. It would also rev to 2000rpm in neutral when it was warm, but turning the revs down caused it to stall when cold. Doing the two things above cured all of it.
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knocker
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 01 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have considered this although I'm leaning more towards the possibility that the carbs are icing as it has only just started happening since we got the really cold weather (it was minus 5 this morning)
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knocker
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PostPosted: 07:31 - 02 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems to have done it again this morning. Was fine when I first started it and was okay for about 2 miles before it started to feel weird and began to struggle. Same symptoms as before, if i let go of the throttle the engine dies straight away, it was misfiring and just generally shite under about 3000rpm, any higher revs and everything seemed to be as normal.

Looks like i'll be getting my spanners out this weekend.
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Coxyzxr
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 02 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

knocker wrote:
It seems to have done it again this morning. Was fine when I first started it and was okay for about 2 miles before it started to feel weird and began to struggle. Same symptoms as before, if i let go of the throttle the engine dies straight away, it was misfiring and just generally shite under about 3000rpm, any higher revs and everything seemed to be as normal.

Looks like i'll be getting my spanners out this weekend.


Mine's been very much like this recently stalled a couple times at lights as it wouldn't idle, I put it down to a few things.

The VERY cold weather lately.

Been running with reserve tap permantly on which only has a DIY fuel filter on the reserve line so the inline filter maybe a big clogged with bottom of the tank crap.

Carbs prob need balancing again.

I've had to adjust the idle setting to compensate until I get round to sorting it.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 02 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is what you need to do......

I got to do this myself as i have the same problem. Its done this before when cold, so its a known cure Thumbs Up

Remover tank and open air box.

Clean all the crap out. Odds on its got loads of thin oily liquid in it. Guess this freezes in the idle needle....
Take crankcase breather pipe off and clean out.

You may have to do this a few times over winter if you do short runs.... I do 20 miles each way and it still does it after a month or two. Sick

I guess best soluition is to find somewhere else for the crankcase breather to vent. Toying with the idea of some form of filter to allow air to escape, but hold the moisture and vent it to the rear of the bike.
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Coxyzxr
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 02 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:
is to find somewhere else for the crankcase breather to vent. Toying with the idea of some form of filter to allow air to escape, but hold the moisture and vent it to the rear of the bike.


Be careful though, crankcase breather (when routed into the airbox) normally relies on negative pressure from the airbox to suck blowby gases out. If you vent it to just the outside it could result in a nasty build up of pressure in the crankcase.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 02 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plenty of pressure from the crankcase with the pipe not connected to the air box. But i take your point.
Might just see if i can fit something in-line to catch the worst of the moisture and the dammed white gunk.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 02 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coxyzxr wrote:
If you vent it to just the outside it could result in a nasty build up of pressure in the crankcase.


Your joking, right?


The main reason the breather feeds to the airbox is to reduce emissions. The oily air is sucked into the cylinder and burnt. Plently of bikes have used various ways of venting the crankcase including beercans.
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Coxyzxr
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
Coxyzxr wrote:
If you vent it to just the outside it could result in a nasty build up of pressure in the crankcase.


Your joking, right?


The main reason the breather feeds to the airbox is to reduce emissions. The oily air is sucked into the cylinder and burnt. Plently of bikes have used various ways of venting the crankcase including beercans.


Is one reason yes as it's pretty nasty to drop oil mist straight into the air, it also reduces volumetric efficiency but that's another topic in itself.

BUT... as I understand it and I quote from a 4 stroke repair manual.
Quote:
4 Stroke engines often have a crankcase breather. A crankcase breather is a valve assembly that vents pressure build up.

A positive pressure in the crankcase is not good because it can cause oil to be forced out of the crankcase through gaskets and seals.


Now as I believe some bikes just have a 'dumping' system where if it gets too much it just passes throught the valve.

But some bikes run a one way valve and it relies on the negative 'suck' from the airbox to open the valve and pull these gases/oil mist out.

I maybe wrong and certainly open to suggestion? Thumbs Up
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most bikes I've worked on haven't had a valve on the breather, those that did have a valve used them inline with the breather pipe.

One way valves are just as likely to work on positive pressure to force them open.

I have no idea about negative pressure valves on bike crankcase breathers, just that I've fitted loads of bikes with pod filters and never had a problem. Maybe I'm lucky? Wink
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I am with Ichy on this. Pretty common to dump the airbox (although not a great idea for other reasons).

Not sure the amount of moisture in the crankcases is enough to make carb icing worse. To be honest never even thought of it. Possible I suppose, but you could also argue that the warm air venting from the engine will help prevent carb icing.

All the best

Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coxyzxr wrote:


Is one reason yes as it's pretty nasty to drop oil mist straight into the air, it also reduces volumetric efficiency but that's another topic in itself.



How?

Coxyzxr wrote:


BUT... as I understand it and I quote from a 4 stroke repair manual.
Quote:
4 Stroke engines often have a crankcase breather. A crankcase breather is a valve assembly that vents pressure build up.

A positive pressure in the crankcase is not good because it can cause oil to be forced out of the crankcase through gaskets and seals.


Now as I believe some bikes just have a 'dumping' system where if it gets too much it just passes throught the valve.

But some bikes run a one way valve and it relies on the negative 'suck' from the airbox to open the valve and pull these gases/oil mist out.

I maybe wrong and certainly open to suggestion? Thumbs Up
_


There is always positive pressure in the crank cases of a running bike, there are always pressure changes. The breather just acts as a two way dump valve. The positive pressure from the underside of the pistons going up and down at speed will almost always be higher than the negative pressure caused by the pistons pulling in air fuel mix.
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Coxyzxr
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
How?



Because if we are taking cylinder space with spent blowby gases and oil mist instead of combustionable air and fuel then we are reducing VE. Question
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

While in theory true, in practice I would suspect for any vaguely healthy engine the effect would be pretty much irrelevantly small.

All the best

Keith
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iooi
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well took it apart today and there was a good 1/4" of thick (was cold) liquid at the bottom of the air box.
So that getting into the carbs would mess up the idle jet.

Cleaned it all out and she now runs as sweet as anything.

Plenty of pressure coming out of the crankcase breather, so venting elsewhere is not going to be a problem. Have placed a inline moisture trap for now to see how that improve's running while still connected to air box.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 03 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coxyzxr wrote:
sickpup wrote:
How?



Because if we are taking cylinder space with spent blowby gases and oil mist instead of combustionable air and fuel then we are reducing VE. Question


That would be mixture efficiency NOT volumetric efficiency.

Volumetric efficiency is more to do with how high a percentage of mixture can be pulled into the engine to fill the chamber.

For example if the chamber is 100CM3 and you can only pull in 93CM3 you are operating at 93% volumetric efficiency.
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