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1993 xj600s Diversion - common faults?

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Keir
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 04 Dec 2008    Post subject: 1993 xj600s Diversion - common faults? Reply with quote

Im viewing a cheap divvy on saturday as my winter hack. 30k on the clock, ss exhaust, taxed and mot for 6 months - £500.

are there any common issues with this model? cheers. Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 04 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Naff petrol pump (vacuum operated on the early ones, useless). Clutch thrust bearing. Original exhausts rotting. Brakes seizing up.

All the best

Keith
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carlnicholson...
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 04 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been made aware that most get a noisy clutch at some point, maybe the thrust bearings Keith mentioned above, but they apparantly soldier on regardless.

Suppose, as cheap bikes go, you can't go far wrong with a well serviced divvie. Obvious problems on such an old bike is the condition of the charging system, you can get a multimeter for a couple of quid if you haven't already got one. Got to be worth seeing what it reads on a constant throttle, worst case, reg recs wouldn't be much anyway.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

carlnicholsony2k wrote:
I have been made aware that most get a noisy clutch at some point, maybe the thrust bearings Keith mentioned above, but they apparantly soldier on regardless.


If the thrust bearing goes then it is likely to stop the bike pretty rapidly. However it is a cheap and simple fix.

A sign the thrust bearing is going is that if you put it on the centre stand with the engine running and put it in gear with the back wheel spinning, and then pull the clutch the back wheel will stop almost immediatly (but unlike when the rear brake is dragging the wheel will happily spin in neutral).

The bearing looks like this:-

https://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/TempPicture/thrustbearing.jpg

New bearing and gasket will be about £10, and not take long to change. Note that the Yamaha manual says to use moly grease on the bearing while the Haynes says to just use engine oil.

All the best

Keith
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Keir
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent. so this pump issue... is there a fix?

thanks
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keir_K3 wrote:
excellent. so this pump issue... is there a fix?


Fit the electric setup from a later bike. Or just make sure you never run onto reserve while not moving (entirely possible to kill the battery cranking the engine over before it manages to pump in enough petrol to start).

All the best

Keith
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KLR600
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PostPosted: 01:23 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I rode mine without a thrust bearing for over 2 weeks!

The clutch didn't work mind so I had to bump start the bike, not stop at all untill I got to where I was going and then do clutchless up AND down shifts the whole time but it kept on going regardless! It was an interesting 2 weeks... Laughing

Keep on top of the brakes as they do seize up and although they're fairly easy to service it's something that's easily avoided by just doing some routine maintenance every now and then.

As has been mentioned, where all the exhaust header pipes join up is prone to rusting so be sure to check that aswell.
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garth
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not /that/ cheap.

I'm more than likely selling my '98 xj600n with 25k and 9ish months T&T on sunday to someone off here for £400. Does need a new back tyre, but does have a top box, scottoiler, heated grips, stainless system etc.

The clutches are noisey on tick over. They just are. When you pull it in it should stop. Seats split at the front.

Mines been a good hack. I get about 57mpg - 175+ miles to reserve. Thumbs Up
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iooi
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Fit the electric setup from a later bike. Or just make sure you never run onto reserve while not moving (entirely possible to kill the battery cranking the engine over before it manages to pump in enough petrol to start).

All the best

Keith


Mine has the Vac set up and has no issues at all with a switch over. Remember you do have prime option if its not wanting to start.
These bikes seem pretty solid with only the std bike issues. Mine has been abused over the last 18+ months and still runs as good as the day i bought it.
Only real downer is at this time of year unless you are doing 30+ mile trips you need to clean out the air box around once a month to clear all the condensation from the crankcase breather with settles in there. Leads to rough running on very cold days as it blocks the idle jet. Keep it clean and its no bother at all. Mr. Green

I do approx 200 miles a week, get 65+ mpg all the time, so thats approx £12 to fill back up each week.
Divvy Owners club
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:
Mine has the Vac set up and has no issues at all with a switch over. Remember you do have prime option if its not wanting to start.


Fuel level when you go to reserve is below the level of the carbs, hence you need to pump the fresh fuel up, whether it is on prime or not. The vacuum pump is OK when you hit reserve while moving, but the problem came if I was stopped when I hit reserve, or I had to stop before I could get to the fuel tap.

All the best

Keith
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krebsy
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 05 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had one, kinda loved it Smile.

Ok, rattly clutch can be fixed by (I think) opening it up, taking out a 5mm connecting rod and then replacing with half a 5.5mm drill bit (the non-drilling end Smile ). Stick it in, heat it up and snap it off. Smile

Or just live with the rattle. Smile

Bike gets vibey at 3500 RPM, so ride it outside of that.
Too much oil and you'll get a constant drip from the breather tube. not a problem on stock exhaust but if it's been "Nexxus'ed" (Had a 4 to 1 exhaust fitted) then the breather pipe will be in-line with the rear wheel, so just watch for oil splats when setting off.

Biggest issue is the electrics I found. Most of the relays etc. are under the right rear plastics and they hang upside down on rubber connectors. If you get water in there then the connector block can rot on the ignition relay as the water pools in there and shorts stuff out.

If this goes (happened to me) then you'll need to chop the connector block off and replace with 20 or so spade connectors, then connect each in turn to the pins/blades. Or, what I did, which was to chop out the dodgy ignition cable, splice a new one in higher up in the loom, put a spade on that, chop the dodgy bit of the connector block out, then wire the new connection to the blade and slap the whole lot back together.. Smile

Bit of a faff but saved me having to rewire the whole damned thing...

Take the rear plastics off and wiggle the cables, check the wires for corrosion and blast them out with WD40 if the bike gets really wet or when servicing for winter.

Keep the brakes clean and tidy and she'll do you fine.

K.
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