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Bandit 1200 Assistanc?

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instigator
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 26 Jan 2009    Post subject: Bandit 1200 Assistancé Reply with quote

Hi

More or less just bought a 1997 Bandit 1200. It's an import, bought from D&K. It has a km/h clock but a blue whatchamacallit it fitted between the speedo cable and the clocks making me think it converts it into MPH...

Great bike, having an absolute blast on it, feels like a much more practical machine than a sports bike around London for sure.

Anyhoo...a few points I've noticed on it.

- Once it's warm, it spits and gargles not only on the over-run but also at idle...not 24-7 but pretty frequently. This will be down to the viper race can on it most likely.

- Take off from the lights isn't very smooth - the fueling is obviously off and is only smooth after 2.5k. So I have to overcompensate with the throttle a bit.

- On idle and low rpm in 1st, it occasionally makes a "tsssst" noise like air escaping and the revs drop a slight amount...to a more normal level. The revs don't drop down from 2k-1.4k as quick as they should really. Since it's occasional and only generally at idle, I suspect it's not an air leak from the downpipes.

I understand that the original bandit exhaust strangles the machines power and that by slapping on an aftermarket can, like the previous owner has done, can release a few bhp. I want to sort the fueling out myself and wish to know the best approach to take. Strip the carbs apart and find out what size of jets it has, upgrade/downgrade them and then balance the carbs? For all I know, it could be jetted for a full system.... I may perhaps remove the viper can and slap on twin stubby cans, depending on how secure I feel my job is this month.

I imagine the fueling will be just as bad with them on but the theory behind the work will still be the same. Only thing I don't intend to do is to chase more bhp, I'm happy with it's power delivery as it is so don't want to faff about with a dealer, fitting dynojet kits if I don't have to.

Any suggestions?
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Keir
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 26 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

my suggestion:

leave bike as it is and pay mr dyno man £250 to sort the fueling properly. not only will this save you the hassle of faffing with needles and jets, but he will have the equipment to measure air/fuel ratios properly.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 26 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Race can and a dynojet kit on a 1200 Bandit should see 115~120hp with a pretty decent power delivery.

Pretty much agree with the above comment of spending a bit getting it set up on a dyno. Although well worth checking things over first (eg, check the pipe for the vacuum tap is not split, the carbs are seated properly, float heights are OK and the diaphragms are in decent condition).

All the best

Keith
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instigator
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 26 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest, if paying £250 for someone else to set it up is the only way to sort it out, I'd rather return it to standard by buying the OE can and putting that on. But then again, I don't know what the bike is set-up for...?

As you can tell, power gains, I couldn't care less about. I like the noise but it isn't worth £250 to me. I'd rather faff. Exclamation

Suppose I could always look out for a 2nd hand set-up, carbs with dynojet kit fitted and with a can and sell of the parts that I have. Thinking
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NiteMare
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

instigator wrote:
To be honest, if paying £250 for someone else to set it up is the only way to sort it out, I'd rather return it to standard by buying the OE can and putting that on. But then again, I don't know what the bike is set-up for...?

As you can tell, power gains, I couldn't care less about. I like the noise but it isn't worth £250 to me. I'd rather faff. Exclamation

Suppose I could always look out for a 2nd hand set-up, carbs with dynojet kit fitted and with a can and sell of the parts that I have. Thinking


which will probably cost you at least half of the 250quid with no guarantee that it'll run any better than now ...

dynojetted 36mm bandit carbs generally go for 100quid plus, if your local dyno operator is any good he will be able to set your carbs up for no more than 200quid (unless there's other problems)...

if you're in/around Birmingham i recommend you going to DynoTorque and having a word with Craig, he's set up 2 of my mates B12 engines, the last one gave a reading of 124.6bhp once he'd fettled it, no airbox/filters, 4-2-1 exhaust with a stumpy can

do it once, do it correctly
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it already has a dynojet kit the emulsion tubes might be worn oval. Common on the bandit 12 as I understand.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been having a bit of a clear up this weekend and found a box marked up as Dynojet GSF1200 96-00

Looks like bits are missing, may have been fitted to a bike but it still has the 100, 104,150 main jets new in the wrappers. A set of used 102.5 main jets, a set of springs and a set of needles marked up as 5D76 (springs and needles may well be the originals out of a bike) as well as shims.

The smaller jets are what you would use for stage one.

The large for stage 3.

Let me know if its any use to you.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

You bought it from D&K. They are known on this forum, no?

So the first thing I would do is give it a really good check over in daylight for any air leaks on the inlet or exhaust side. If this doesn't fix it, clean the carbs and see how worn they are, and what jets (and if they are normal jets or dynojets) it is running.

This gives you a good baseline. For gypsy dynoing you can try to find someone with the same setup and see what jet sizes and settings they are running, jets are cheap.
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NiteMare
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PostPosted: 01:33 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

robby wrote:
You bought it from D&K. They are known on this forum, no?

So the first thing I would do is give it a really good check over in daylight for any air leaks on the inlet or exhaust side. If this doesn't fix it, clean the carbs and see how worn they are, and what jets (and if they are normal jets or dynojets) it is running.

This gives you a good baseline. For gypsy dynoing you can try to find someone with the same setup and see what jet sizes and settings they are running, jets are cheap.


you need to know the maker of the jets when doing this as the various makers use the same numbering sequence but drill different size holes in the jets ....

things are not always as simple as they sound

if you want to check your carbs out grab a haynes manual, in there it should give you the various needle, jet and emulsion tube numbers to suit the various size carbs and which state/country regulations the bike was produced for originally
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Re: Bandit 1200 Assistancé Reply with quote

instigator wrote:

More or less just bought a 1997 Bandit 1200. It's an import, bought from D&K.


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instigator
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

robby wrote:
You bought it from D&K. They are known on this forum, no?

So the first thing I would do is give it a really good check over in daylight for any air leaks on the inlet or exhaust side. If this doesn't fix it, clean the carbs and see how worn they are, and what jets (and if they are normal jets or dynojets) it is running.

This gives you a good baseline. For gypsy dynoing you can try to find someone with the same setup and see what jet sizes and settings they are running, jets are cheap.


Aah sorry mate, my bad - meant it was originally purchased from D&K which is how I could tell it was an import for sure. Laughing

I'll whip the carbs off this weekend and inspect in further detail. And look for that obvious split hose which is occasionally hissing from somewhere. Smile
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NiteMare
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 27 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

the "split hose" that's occaisionally hissing "could" be the vacuum pipe that goes from the top of one of the carbs to the fuel tap ...

which would mean you are sucking air in on that cylinder and "leaning" the mixture out , which in turn will give you rough running
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 06:14 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's an IL4 there not suppose to run well below 2.5 revs. Even my TDM900 which is a Twin with a 8k redline doesn't run too well below 2.5k. Generally when riding il4's I don't let the revs drop below 4k.
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 28 Jan 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
It's an IL4 there not suppose to run well below 2.5 revs. Even my TDM900 which is a Twin with a 8k redline doesn't run too well below 2.5k. Generally when riding il4's I don't let the revs drop below 4k.


Eh, Where did you get that from? You must have a sick sick engine then. All my IL4 would pull from anything above tick over (1.5k) without hesitation or struggling and ride along happily at 2k in slow traffic.

A TDM900 shouldn't struggle at all with all the low down torque it has. Same goes for the 1200Bandit, it should be smooth pulling away from tick over so there is a problem with the fuelling.
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