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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: So, What's the success rate of Reply with quote

removing snapped front disc bolt from a wheel. The wheel I snapped the head off the disc bolt is a 99 Vmax. Luckily, It's one of my spare wheels Very Happy

Took the wheel to the local tech shop and asked them... they said pretty much impossible, but were willing to give it a try.

I've never had any luck with bolt extractor kits; they all seem to snap before the actual bolt is removed.

What's your mileage been for this type of job Question
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tafflade
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

100% for removing exhaust studs in the same situation, well, actually when I say 100% I mean that it worked both times that I tried it.

I used 2 nuts to lock together on the thread that was left, a blowtorch and a lump hammer to provide some shock on to the end of the stud then unscrewed very gingerly praying that it didn't shear again.

good luck Thumbs Up
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't understand why they can't get it out ... I take it the bolt was corroded and that's why you've managed to snap it.

You need to be careful with stud extractors as they are very brittle and can snap quite easily ... if you snap it off then you won't be able to drill it!!

I suggest alternating between heating, cooling and spraying WD40 ... that together with drilling the centre of the bolt and using an extractor should free it off.

Usually once the head is off a bolt it's easy enough to get the rest of it out as it's not under tension anymore, but it sounds like yours is corroded in, or the thread lock is gripping too well.

Either way, the heating/cooling cycle should break the bond and make it easier to get out.

Spark erosion is another method, but I don't know how successful it'd be as it's steel in ally ... the ally might vaporise before the steel when you get near to the threads.

If you want, drop by and I'll get it out for you ... waits for all the comments ... oh and bring your paddock stands with you.

All the best ... Barry
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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm yes, I knew it was possible. Maybe the tech guys are going to charge me big time for the pleasure Surprised

The disc bolt is snapped half way down the shaft, which is lower than the facee of the hold; therefore it's inside the wheel. So I can't get extra nuts on it Surprised

Barry I'd happily bring the paddock standards down to yours (I take it it's for changing tyres?) If you can get the bolt out. We'll see how they get on... If they do manage I'll plan on visiting you anyway Thumbs Up

Karma

PS I snapped it with my good arm Surprised It looked okay when I started...
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SoND
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Re: So, What's the success rate of Reply with quote

vmax.dude wrote:
Took the wheel to the local tech shop and asked them... they said pretty much impossible, but were willing to give it a try.

I've never had any luck with bolt extractor kits; they all seem to snap before the actual bolt is removed.


Go to a better engineer.

Bolt extractors aren't for taking out bolts that are seized and have sheared when you want to take them out.
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loply
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much useable thread is left in the hole in question?

If it's more than 3/4mm I would suggest simply cutting the new bolt down to a length that fits, and loctiting it in with a strong compound.

Yada yada yada, I know lots of people will belch at this, but the plain fact is that it ain't going anywhere. Even without the loctite it wouldn't budge, let alone if you gum it up with 648 or somesuch.




If you DO want to remove it, my recommended technique would be to somehow drill a drillbit into the remaining bolt, then, carefully coat the said drillbit in Loctite 648 and twist it back into the bolt... Leave it to set, then twist it out. Hopefully the Loctite grips strong enough that the drill bit unscrews the bolt.

Prior to this I would heat the bolt in question heavily then whack it downwards with a centrepunch type device to shock it from the thread.
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
We'll see how they get on


Get it back and bring it through ... save yourself some money!!

And yep, I need to put two new tyres on the SRAD ... then I can start having some fun on it Thumbs Up
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have managed to drill out the old bolt, using increasingly larger drillbits, until I get to the point where I can 'peal' out the threaded bit ... it all relies on a fairly accurate initial pilot hole being completely central ... worst case is that you end up drilling it right out and using a helicoil ...
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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tech dudes success! they managed to get it out Thumbs Up

No charge.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

go pentland tech!!! friggin ace guys, i want them to be in wellington, not in stinky scotland, ive got no one to visit with my engineering problems Sad
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funmonkee
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
go pentland tech!!! friggin ace guys, i want them to be in wellington, not in stinky scotland, ive got no one to visit with my mental problems Sad


fixed it for ya Laughing

*runs*
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GSXFire
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 06 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pentland at the back of IKEA in Edinburgh got the studs spark eroded out of my Bandit head, they taped the threads and fitted Helicoils where needed and then put new bolts in. top job done in a week.
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