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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
Joined: 27 May 2008 Karma :  
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 12:47 - 24 Feb 2009 Post subject: |
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Hi
Quick answer is no.
Longer answer is possibly. A caliper will need a certain amount of fluid to push the pistons out and push the pads onto the disk. More pistons / larger pistons mean more fluid is required. Master cylinders use different size bores to push out different amounts of fluid for the amount of movement of the master cylinder piston. Also the relationship of the brake lever pivot point to your fingers and the master cylinder piston will change the ratio of movement of your fingers to movement of the piston.
Add to that worn seans, sticking calipers and old and knackered fluid all change how the brakes feel. Personally I would be inclined to strip and rebuild the caliper first. Clean up thoroughly behind the seals. Bleed them through with fresh good quality fluid.
If you use a m/c with a smaller bore (ignoring levers for now) you will likely land up with more lever travel and more feel. A larger bore m/c will give less lever travel but also less feel. Quite easy to land up with the brakes feeling very dead.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 13:08 - 24 Feb 2009 Post subject: |
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Hi
The caliper is a twin pot sliding caliper I think. Looks a similar design to the one on the 600 Divvy. Some Yamaha dealers are fairly helpful with stuff for Japanese imports (I have had good experiences with Granby Motors in Ilkeston for Japanese spec parts for my TZR250).
Yamaha are pretty good at not changing things for the sake of it, so plenty of parts are shared between different models.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Carl Howell |
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 Carl Howell Scooby Slapper
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 23:13 - 26 Feb 2009 Post subject: |
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Hi
Watch out for your eyes and have some half decent circlip pliers. When yo take the m/c off and remove the lever you will find a rubber boot. Under this you should find a circlip that holds the piston in place. The piston has a spring the other side of it. You need to push the piston down an remove the circlip, then gently release the piston. Make VERY certain you which way the seals go (they are directional) when you reassemble it.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 16 years, 351 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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