need help with brakes

[rockers]

Hi all
went to take my brake pads out of my front brake to get some new ones, got the caliper off and there's what looks like two long bolts going thought the brake holding the pads in.
now have managed to snap off a 3/8 driver to 5mm hex off and broke a ratchet, and to make matters worse i tried again with some more kit and rounded the dam allen key head inside.

so my question is what do i do now ? am i stuck ?

[sickpup]

Heat it up with a blow torch and remove with mole grips.

[rockers]

remove with mole grips ? the allen cap head bolts are ina recesse, heat up with a blowtourch ? wouldnt it ruin the seals in the brake ?

[sickpup]

[rockers]

what pin part ? there are two hex cap head holding the pads in not pins

[sickpup]

Then hammer a torx head bit in it, heat the caliper up with a blow torch and remove.

[mrsteko]

If you want to save money, don't take advice offered on this thread, seek professional help and buy standard parts.
____________________
Theory passed Dec 05 : Practical passed 28th April '06
Bikes : 1999 NSR 125 R (sold)
: 1998 bandit 600

[sickpup]

[rockers]

Hair dresser

everyone's entitled to there opinon. i just see using a blow tourch and mole grips abit bodge.
options ive also been told are use left hand drill and drill it out or weld a allen key onto the bolt and get a new calipere.

so think i will try the welder first and report back

thanks

Rocky

[sickpup]

Ah yes that would be the 'cold' welding as opposed to the one where the welding wire melts?

[alun111]

I fully agree with sickpup, heat and some sort of grips is the way I'd do it. Do you really think they'd do it differently in a garage?

It's not a bodge at all... I'd say drilling is as if you fuck up you can knacker the threads in the caliper body and have to tap the hole left and then use custom made parts from there on.
____________________
Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70

[Robby]

When my SV650 did this I couldn't get them to turn at all, so I split the caliper and got it apart that way.

[Bikeless]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[sickpup]

[reckless_b]

I have to agree with sickpup in many ways, you brakes will save your life, lack of them could well kill you, please get help. I have never had to remove any cap screws to change brake pads, although I havent had every bike yet so I may be missing something. P.S This is my first post, Hello everyone.

[reckless_b]

Although i'm listed as L plate warrior, I have to confess to riding for over 34 years, owning bikes from all around the world and still having from 1250 bandit to LE200 velo's with a few inbetween.Bike safely. Reckless.

[timjim]

all the bandits ive owned have blanking screws that need to be removed to gain access to the retaining pins.I agree with sickpup..WARM the brake pad up with a hot air gun or blow lamp..give up when you need to flamethrower strength!!!when warming move the screw back and forward(ie..undo and tighten!!!)If the pins do get mullered..buy a new set..think theyre about 6-8 quid each,so its not Fort Knox money....AND the brakes do save your life!!If you cant be arsed..THEN pay someone to do it for you!!!!!

[reckless_b]

Impact drivers are another good tool for persuading the tight to play the game and WD40 works a treat if you are patient, took me a week to free off a bleed nipple with daily squirts.
____________________
40 years on the road on and sometimes off bikes with a very recent OFF

[lozzypop1]