A question about set-up

[LeeR]

Is it better to drop the forks through the yoke by 10mm or to use a jack-up kit to improve handling?

Essentially I'm looking to put more weight over the front wheel and reduce high speed weave.

I've had a new rear shock and adjusted it to where the bike feels comfortable, I've had the forks overhauled, and I'm now using BT020/021 tyres instead of the "dual-purpose" style OEM fitment.

Now I know I'm probably being picky but I was wondering if there was any more I could do to improve handling and increase my confidence, esp. on turn in.

The bike is a DL1000 (V-Strom) 19" front/17" rear, hagon shock (if it helps) thanks in advance.
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[Finglonga]

[Bendy]

If it's a new aftermarket shock it might not really be working properly with the front end (when I changed to stiffer fork springs in the CBR it was pretty nasty as the front didn't match the back).

First thing I'd do would be look for a V-Strom forum and pick the brains of folk who actually own the bike. If that didn't glean any useful info, I'd consider getting the suspension setup professionally.

Now admittedly I had mine done on a trackday where it was easy to change - go out - change - go out, but it was the best £30 I ever spent on that bike.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Usually it's better to raise the rear rather than drop the front, because when you raise the rear you gain ground clearence as oppose to losing it like you do when you drop the front.

As Bendy says though pretty much.
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[mr jamez]

On my VFR I whacked on a shock with adjustable height and combined rebound/compression. I played around with it for ages but it never made a massive difference, I think it takes a hell of a lot of skill to be able to ride a bike and translate what its doing into suspension settings.

However getting the forks and shock sprung to my weight was a good improvement, and if you want to go further at least you know you have the basics right.

If you raise the rear it will turn in faster, but like others say it /can/ make it a bit twitchy if you go too far.
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[LeeR]

Thanks for the replies, I had checked the V-Strom forums but most of the members seem to be from north america and think nothing of spending stupid amounts, on what sometimes turns out to be their weekend toy.

However, one gem I did glean was the use of a fork brace and I think I might invest in one from here: VSI forum

Interestingly I have a couple of mates with a BMW R1200GS, and considering they are fairly similar bikes (tall, twins, circa 230Kg, 19" front), they behave quite differently at high speed. So much so that I get the impression that they don't believe me when I relay what I'm experiencing.

Now in looking at the R1200GS forks, there is a brace over the front mud-guard that the telever arm connects to. Obviously the V-Strom having standard forks doesn't have this brace, I'm wondering if an after market fitment might be the answer.

I don't really want to drop the forks, as the original owner had done this and although the bike did seem to turn in well, I found the dropped bars uncomfortable. So the solution to that would be risers, but I'm not sure that would be the answer either.

Like I say, I'm probably just being picky (perfectionist) as the weave only really occurring over 100mph without luggage and around 80-90mph with luggage. Not that I go that fast all that often, but it can be a little disconcerting when I do.
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[neatbik]

Lee do you have any adjustment on the suspension? Im guessing there is rear preload adjustment at least.
It is worth setting the static sag properly, i recently did this on my bike and its made quite a difference.
It wont stop the high speed weave but will make a difference under braking/acclerating and cornering.

As already said, raing the rear or dropping the forks will make it turn in easier but at the expense of stability.
I know that some bikes can suffer from weave for one person, yet another owner doesent feel it - just look at all the Pan Europeans the police junked..

[Bendy]

Get someone else to ride yours and be cheeky and go test-ride a new one. Helps to determine if it's your imagination, your particular bike or just a design 'feature'.

When you start getting picky about such things, it's amazing how much your mind can convince you it's much worse than it actually is.

[LeeR]

Nick has ridden it... what did you think, mate?

The rear shock is a Hagon M63085 with adjustment for both damping and spring preload.

When I got the shock fitted it was set at factory standard and was a bit "bouncy" for my liking, and as I always ride with luggage, and most mornings with a pillion I adjusted the shock as follows:

Damping - added a 1/4 turn as recommended by the instructions

Preload - in increments of 1 complete turn of the locking nut (1.5mm) I settled on 2 complete turns. If I ride with panniers and a pillon I turn it up 1 more turn, total 3 turns (4.5mm).

This last week I turned it up 1 more (without panniers/pillion) didn't help the front made it more vague. So I turned it back a 1/2 turn in general this seems okay both at slow and high speeds, but the weave still occurs at high speeds.
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[neatbik]

I think the only real way to set the sag is to lift the bike just so the wheel is off the floor, and measure from a fixed point (i.e indicator, footrest hanger, or whatever)
Then sit on the bike with you full weight on it and take the measurement again.
The difference between the two is your sag.
Mine is set to 25mm front and rear - track settings really but it feels a lot nicer than the 36mm front/30mm rear i had before.

[LeeR]

Riiight... I may have led you astray, I have no adjustment on the front suspension at all, hence the questions re: raising the forks etc...
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[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

steering damper?

Pat
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[neatbik]

To be honest mate it felt fine to me, but then i only got it upto 80mph (only... )

Im not sure what to suggest about the weave, like i said it could just be the design of the bike/luggage is affected at certain speeds, cross winds or whatever.

Are your headbearings in good condition? I suspect they are, but if they were worn i could see that possibly causing high speed stability problems.

Dropping the forks or raising the rear would put more weight over the front and possibly cure it, but then, as you already know, the bike will want to turn easier/quicker...

Hope that makes sense, im being good friends with Mr J Daniels tonight.

[LeeR]

In the last year I've had the following work done:

Swing arm re-tightened (it was loose)
Replacement rear shock
Fork overhaul - oil + seals not springs
Replacement steering head bearings
Replacement front wheel bearings
Road biased tyres BT020/021 combination

To be honest the bike is 10x better than it was when I bought it.

Though I think it could be a little better, like Bendy says it could all be in my head.
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[neatbik]

Right, i think the only way to clear this issue up is to let me have a longer test ride.
Its a hard job, but never let it be said that im not there for my mates in times of need