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Fly Fishing - advice required

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mistergixer
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: Fly Fishing - advice required Reply with quote

I'm always keen to expand my repertoire of fishing skills and techniques, so i've decided to have a go at fly fishing for Pike.

I've had good success with Pike flies so far, although i've been using the 'cheats' method of using a spin rod, fixed spool reel and a couple of lead shot pinched onto the line for a casting weight.

So, i want to kit myself out with a proper fly rod, reel etc, but am finding all the terminology a tad confusing - all this stuff about leaders and tippets and backing just means nothing to me.

Can anyone explain (or point me in the direction of a good 'bluffers guide') what i'll need to get started?? From the research i've done, i understand that i'll need a fairly strong rod - Pike fly rods seem to be rated for 10WT line, but again, that figure is meaningless to me!
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phantomtek
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: Re: Fly Fishing - advice required Reply with quote

Theres a book out you should get, its called 'Fly Fishing' can't remember who by, think its J. R. Hartley.........

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Skudd
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bait do you use to catch flies?
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skudd wrote:
What bait do you use to catch flies?


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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:18 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never fished for pike with a fly, but I've done a lot of fly fishing.

I'd imagine you'd need a reasonably hefty rod, but perhaps not as hefty as a salmon rod.

A trout fly rod is used in one hand, a salmon rod is used in two hands. I actually have an intermediate one with a kind of half-size "fighting butt" you can out on your hip if you have a decent fish on. Effectively a hand and a half rod.

Rods also have either a through action (evenly bendy) which gives a more subtle cast with more control or a tip action for distance.

Basic principles, you cast using the weight of the flyline. The fly is attached to the end using a thinner piece of (usually nylon monofilament) leader.

So. On your reel you have lowest down some backing which is usually braided line, it's to give you something to pay out if you get a bigt fish on. This is attached to the much thicker fly line (there are many different types, see later) then the leader.

The reel is most commonly a simple centre-pin reel. It's normally just used for storing the line neatly. You tend to leave the length of fly line you're working with in a pile at your feet and land smaller fish by simply pulling in the line by hand. Bigger fish go onto the reel.

You can also use multiplier type reels.

Fly line comes in different types. It has a weight which has to suit the rod, it will say on the rod which weight to use. Fly lines are also tapered.

Double taper (DT) is thick in the middle, thin at the outsides. This is easiest to use and most subtle.

Weight forward (WF) is thicker at the ends and is used to cast further for reservoir/lake work. They are sometimes cut in half to make what's called a "shooting head" to get even more distance.

The lines have different bouyancies for how far and quickly they sink. You get floating, neutral, sink tip, slow sinking and fast sinking. Sink tip is floating with about 5 metres of sinking line at the end.

From the point of view of never having fished for course fish with a fly but having fished for both salmon and trout and sea fish I'll take a guess for some beginners tackle.

I'd go for a hand and a half rod, in the region of 10'6" taking maybe a size 8-9 line. Since you're going to be lake fishing and pike aren't that easily spooked, you'll probably want a tip action rod.

I'd go for a double taper line, they are easier to cast to begin with. Neutral density seems to be the modern way (You only got floating and sinking when I first started). Many open water fly fishermen are obsessed with casting distance, my oppinion is that there is just as likely to be a fish three feet away as halfway across the lake.

Backing is backing is backing. Or you could use some heavy nylon monofilament. Join it to the fly line with a blood knot.

I'd get a 6 or 7" centre-pin reel. There really isn't much to choose between them, see if you can get one with a spare spool for different fly line.

Buying a braided leader is useful. This goes between the fly line and your leader. Saves wear and tear on the flyline where you tie the knot.

Now all you need to do is learn to cast Smile . Best bet is to get someone to show you, then practice.

Try on grass first, don't get annoyed, practice getting the line shooting out in a straight line and landing gently rather than massive distance. That'll come later.

Wear glasses the first few times you cast an actual fly. Check behind you, the line goes as far backwards as it does forwards. Keep your elbow still, cast using the wrist. Cast using a lifting action as if you were aiming to throw the line straight up in the air above you.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:44 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should add that I always find fly fishing very theraputic. It's totally different to other forms of fishing because you are constantly moving.

I also think it is the most sporting and satisfying way to take a fish.

On a recent trip to Florida, my brother was out fishing for sharks using what was effectively a small crane strapped to his shoulders. Meanwhile I was catching small balyhoo and bonefish up to about 1lb in weight on ultra lightweight fly tackle (4lb line). I had fish taking 20yds of line off me at a time, tailwalking and jumping 6-8 feet out of the water before I had them played out.

I know which of us enjoyed themselves the most.

Actually, found a video of someone landing a bigger bonefish (crap music, you'll see how he is barely using the reel until it's nearly played out. He needs to keep his rod tip up more when fighting them mind). The guy is using almost the exact tackle I described in my previous post. Don't be dismayed by the size of the fish at the end, a bonefish is one of the hardest fighting fish for its size. One that big would be like landing a 15lb+ pike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLcrdNjwm88
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Kwaks
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PostPosted: 07:07 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stink just about covers it, although I would suggest a fast sink line for pike.

I would also suggest learning to cast using standard flies, usually on a 3-4lb leader (the bit of nylon just before the hook, usually about a foot is more than enough) and forget about the pike until you can do this reasonably well (the reason will become apparent). Try a couple of afternoons at a trout fishery, for the dual benefit of clear areas behind you and to gain knowledge from those around you.

When I started fly fishing I initially bought a beginners pack, which came with everything you require, was only about £50. The rod is pretty poor, and used as the third spare now, however the reel is still used as a backup loaded with alternative line. So all in was good value. After learning on that, when I did buy a decent rod my casting was way better than I thought.

Ok, for the pike. I use a braided leader if I am fishing for Jacks. If in places like Loch Awe where they grow to in excess of 30lb I will stick on some wire trace. Pike flies can be big, and thus heavy, so in combination with the trace and swivel I use are a real pain in the arse to cast. You want a fast sink line as said, and you want to strip it in fairly fast, faster than you would for trout. You may find using the Spey technique of fly casting easier when using such a heavy set up. (google it Wink )

Any large fly with red in it will suffice, although in the past I have used them resembling frogs & mice etc etc. One or two takes will pretty much destroy the fly so dont spend too much on them, even better would be to tie your own.

Most fish you catch will be Jacks, however trust me they fight well above their weights, and well worth the effort required to learn the techniques.

Only other advice to add to what Stink says, especially when moving onto the heavier pike flies, is to also wear a hat in addition to the glasses. You do not want a barbed hook in the back of the head at the speed they travel at.

As he says, its all in the wrist, however its not a back and forth action, make it a slightly more oval motion will help your cast immensly Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

kwaker6r wrote:

Any large fly with red in it will suffice, although in the past I have used them resembling frogs & mice etc etc. One or two takes will pretty much destroy the fly so dont spend too much on them, even better would be to tie your own.


I have a suggestion, maybe a bit away from the usual way of doing things.

It's quite common practice in salmon fishing to use tube flies. Tied in the same way as a normal fly but on a piece of plastic or copper tube instead of the shank of a hook.

You attach a double or treble hook to the end of the line and the tube fly is free to slide up and down the leader. You could probably do this using a fine, twisted wire trace too.

They are designed for salmon which have a crap take on the fly and often just mouth it rather than biting (they don't eat in fresh water). The idea is that the fly slides up the line out of the way as you set the hook.

You can have all different sizes from really small ones (I used to tie them on bits of biro pen ink tube) to big huge copper efforts 2" long that buzz as they go past your ear.

Might save you some effort on flies.

Incidentally, a mate of my Dads once took a 50lb pike on a bung in Loch Awe. By that I mean, it took the bung, not the live bait. He also took a 21lb ferrox trout, they make pike look like cute, fluffy kittens.

A word on spey casting. I have shattered three carbon fibre fly rods spey casting. They all greensticked, the technique is very hard on the rod material. If you are going to spey cast, you need a PROPER carbon fibre rod which has been baked in an autoclave, not laid in resin like fibreglass. You also need that extra hand-hold, it's a two handed technique and takes a bit of learning.

You'll be able to tell proper carbon fibre by the large hole in your wallet and because the carbon looks like it's been woven, not laid in straight lines.

Alternatively, I've never broken a fibreglass rod and fibreglass is cheap. Carbon fibre is one of those fashion things that to my mind doesn't necessarily justify its cost. I would have a cheaper end fibreglass or composite rod over a carbon fibre one for the same price any day of the week. If it costs less than £150, I'd be looking to spend my money on a fibreglass one instead (although they are getting harder to come by).

I saw a £50 carbon boat with a 30lb test-curve rod snap like a matchstick in three places with a stingray on.

You also get away with rattling high-voltage power lines with a fibreglass rod.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
A hand-grenade is a lot easier.


Although then you'd have a load of dead pike on your hands. So what are you going to do with them then?

My Dad has a pike recipe called "Pike on the Board".

Get a well seasoned, untreated plank of spruce or similar softwood and lay your pike on it.

Fillet the pike, sprinkle salt and black pepper onto it and rub it against the board, skin side down for a few minutes. Now turn it over, add some thyme, dill and lemon juice and repeat the process.

Now throw the pike in the bin and eat the board. It's a lot tastier.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Flip
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw the name Hetzer in a fly fishing thread and had to look. Surely he can't bring hate and destruction in to this thread? I thought.

Fair play to him. He did. Thumbs Up Laughing
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Kwaks
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol @ stinks dads recipe.


No self respecting angler in the UK would kill a pike, apart from tasting pretty crap they keep our other fish stocks healthy Thumbs Up
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

kwaker6r wrote:
lol @ stinks dads recipe.


No self respecting angler in the UK would kill a pike, apart from tasting pretty crap they keep our other fish stocks healthy Thumbs Up


Used to be the norm to kill them if found in stocked water. Also don't knock pike until you have tasted it as it makes good eating. Thumbs Up
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JonB
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anybody do any beach casting here? During the summer I spend a lot of time on the South coast catching fish. Mainly Mackeral though.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x88/Phil_Clarke/Shetland07/P6180119.jpg
A wee pollock.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kwaks
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finglonga wrote:
kwaker6r wrote:
lol @ stinks dads recipe.


No self respecting angler in the UK would kill a pike, apart from tasting pretty crap they keep our other fish stocks healthy Thumbs Up


Used to be the norm to kill them if found in stocked water. Also don't knock pike until you have tasted it as it makes good eating. Thumbs Up


Don't need to tell me, I live in Scotland which is dominated by game fishing, where cutting the heads off pike was encouraged.


That was until a lack of pike cost one managed loch 80% of its trout population to disease. Now you would be thrown off the water for killing a pike
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user
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slightly off topic, but

stinkwheel wrote:
there is just as likely to be a fish three feet away as halfway across the lake.


It is so good to hear that from somone other than me as I thrash my rod around pathetically hoping none of the 'proper' anglers with fancy jackets and reels worth more than my bike are looking at me Shifty
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Kwaks
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PostPosted: 08:30 - 14 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

JoeTheNihilist wrote:
Slightly off topic, but

stinkwheel wrote:
there is just as likely to be a fish three feet away as halfway across the lake.


It is so good to hear that from somone other than me as I thrash my rod around pathetically hoping none of the 'proper' anglers with fancy jackets and reels worth more than my bike are looking at me Shifty


Lol, I sometimes fly fish the local canal for pike, on a few occasions I have stood speaking to dead baiters who have been there for hours with no luck, within a few feet I spot a pike resting by the near bank and drop a fly on its head Wink
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mistergixer
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 15 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info chaps.
So, have i got this right in my head.........it goes:
fly
leader
fly line
backing

The places where i mostly fish contain mostly Jacks - around 12lb is the largest i've had out of the waters so far.
Can anyone suggest a suitable setup that isn't going to break the bank?

On a separate note: i've had loads of takes within 5ft from the bank - there's nothing quite like the sensation of watching a pike follow in your lure right up to the bank, giving the lure a twitch or two and then watching the pike take it and go charging off.
Marvellous.
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