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clancy
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: M.O.T Reply with quote

What does the bike need to pass its M.O.T?
any help apreciated.
no piss take comments please
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just needs to be in good working condition , ie all the electrics/horn/brakelights / high beam light /headlamps (bar the indicator warning light).

Have no leaks or play in suspension or bearings or zorst.

Have pillion pegs if it has a pillion seat

And a can which does not say not for road use.

Have visible wear material left on the brake pads and pass the brake test which is pretty low ie can it lock the wheel.
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Towton 1461
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 12 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ukmot.com/bike/1-1.asp

This provides quite detailed information, if this is what you're looking for, Clancy.
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clancy
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah that websites very usefull, cheers.
only thing is, one of my shocks has oil leeking down it, like the seels broke or something?
any idea how id go about fixing that?
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Mr.Everready
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 13 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of your shocks ? You mean forks ?

Get it fixed !

If you're going to get it fixed but need the mot take off the dust seal and stuff something in to take up the fluid.
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 14 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the leak is on your front forks then you have a leaky fork seal.

That will fail the MOT.

Fork seals aren't that hard to do, you will have to take the front end off to replace them though.
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c-m
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 14 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there is a button for a pass light must this work?

Also - must the throttle snap back even when the bike isn't running?
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 09:00 - 14 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

c-m wrote:
If there is a button for a pass light must this work?


No

c-m wrote:
must the throttle snap back even when the bike isn't running?


Yes
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clancy
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 14 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, do you recon someone could talk me through changing the fork seal ?
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element
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 15 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

if its rwu forks then just fit gators ant zip tie them in place.. They wont take em off so they can check... Ive never had a problem (but then my forks have never leaked)
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 15 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

what about if you back break is sqeeky?

disc isnt warped and stopes fine, has ahad a new disc 1 mile ago.


and opinions?
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 15 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as it works fine there should be no problem. Squeaking is often just caused by brake dust anyway.
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clancy
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

element wrote:
if its rwu forks then just fit gators ant zip tie them in place.. They wont take em off so they can check... Ive never had a problem (but then my forks have never leaked)


well my bike needs an MOT ina few days, so if i basicly just cover the forks up as temp job it will pass.?
and then ill have time to sort it.

cheers
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

clancy wrote:
well my bike needs an MOT ina few days, so if i basicly just cover the forks up as temp job it will pass.?
and then ill have time to sort it.

cheers


The prefered method is to do this: get some absorbant kitchen towel Bounty is excellent for this , cut a sheet in half and roll it into a sausage. Stick these under the dust seals , then put the dust seals back , THEN put gaitors ontop.

My MOT place to test fork seals gets some bog roll and wipes it on the fork stanchion so the kitchen towel method doesn't work as it stains the stanchion very slightly.

But seriously fix them as fork seals weep a tiny amount to start with then they REALLY pop and go all over your brakes.

Here was me attacking snake pass already going hot into a corner squeeze the front to slow down a bit and wtf no brakes!.


To replace them its a PITA of a job , tbh I'd rather pay the £90 labour costs to get them replaced. Don't forget the bushes also.

To replace them you need to undo the top and the bottom bolt, then grab hold of them slide hammer them apart. At which bits will fly all over the place, lever off the old bushes (top is most important) replace the bushes, then reassemble the fork internals

Pour in some fork oil then using some plastic pipe drive the seals down gently down the fork stanchions (pitted forks are bad for this) I used a chisel with the plastic safety cover on it. Then do up the bolts you undid.


*Steps have been skipped on this round up, its fiddly job and can take a very long time. You aslo need some way to suspend the front of your bike off the ground.
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Kal
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

clancy wrote:
ok, do you recon someone could talk me through changing the fork seal ?


https://www.haynes.co.uk/wcsstore/HaynesPublishing/images/Bookjackets/150scans/4298.jpg
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clancy
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

alright cheers Itchy and Kal.
sounds like a pain in the ass lol.
but seen as how it needs an mot in a few days i may aswell get them to do it there.
save a bit of hasle.

leigh.
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Kal
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did it when I swapped the bottom forklegs on the Clubman. It took an evening - even at my work rate and general cackhandedness.

Really isn't a problem, especially if you can get someone to help.
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

RXS100_Chris wrote:
As long as it works fine there should be no problem. Squeaking is often just caused by brake dust anyway.


ok cheers Thumbs Up
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

clancy wrote:
alright cheers Itchy and Kal.
sounds like a pain in the ass lol.
but seen as how it needs an mot in a few days i may aswell get them to do it there.
save a bit of hasle.

leigh.


i did mine last week seals/dust boots, a smines due for an M.O.T in 12 days i belive?

there pretty simple to do...just dont go hacking the new seals in with a screwdriver or anything.


take it easy and ull be fine Thumbs Up

its pretty self explanatory anyway.

you say your bike is a chinker?(i may be wrong) but i had a chink pitbike 140 and the shocks on that where reps and where piss easy to re-build Thumbs Up and all chinker stuff is basicly the same for build cost reasons.

cheers

Luke
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clancy
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 16 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

spitfire123 wrote:
clancy wrote:
alright cheers Itchy and Kal.
sounds like a pain in the ass lol.
but seen as how it needs an mot in a few days i may aswell get them to do it there.
save a bit of hasle.

leigh.


i did mine last week seals/dust boots, a smines due for an M.O.T in 12 days i belive?

there pretty simple to do...just dont go hacking the new seals in with a screwdriver or anything.


take it easy and ull be fine Thumbs Up

its pretty self explanatory anyway.

you say your bike is a chinker?(i may be wrong) but i had a chink pitbike 140 and the shocks on that where reps and where piss easy to re-build Thumbs Up and all chinker stuff is basicly the same for build cost reasons.

cheers

Luke


its a rieju rs2 pro.
which i doubt youve herd of, but its basicly an aprillia rs50 with a different body on it.

ive booked the MOT for tomorrow just to get it over with and see what needs doing really.
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