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SV650s, bogging, cutting out and running poorly.

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Thom
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 24 Apr 2009    Post subject: SV650s, bogging, cutting out and running poorly. Reply with quote

As some of you may know my mates acquired an sv650s. its a 02 registered curvy and is carbed for those who dont know.

Anyway we went for a ride today after seeing his riding instructors bodge to the clutch cable, apparantly this was sticking but i dont think that was the case to be honest.

Anyway as we're riding the bike gets warmer as it should but begins to hesistate when pulling away, stalling regularly whilst waiting and cutting out when he goes to pull away quickly.

The bikes been restricted but i reckon the people he bought it from are cowboys as the bikes got some stupid issues with it. Im unsure if the bikes been restricted properly i.e different jetting installed where neccesary.

The symptoms to me indicate the bikes running rich or possibly flooding. it doesnt happen at high revs, only low and i noticed a small amount of unburnt fuel come from his exhaust whilst revving in traffic. We're going to check the plugs sunday, if they're rich would you guys say its safe to assume my thoughts on jetting are correct?

I'm going to suggest running the bike without an airfilter for a mile or so if the plugs are rich and if this is the case i'll install smaller jets. any furthur advice/know how/words of wisdowm please?
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 24 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

check the front spark plug cap is OK, they are notorious for picking up water from the front wheel. G had this problem on his road SV and a new plug cap fixed it IIRC.

Oh yeah, and don't run without an air filter. You shouldn't need to change jetting for a restriction anyway. I didn't for my VFR400, the only thing I had to do when I derestricted it was balance the carburettors. To me this sounds like a classic one cylinder misfire.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Thom
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 24 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRc some bikes do require rejetting (Although my divvy didnt either). however i'd completely forgotten about the sv misfire problem, is it a simply case of getting a multimetre out and checking the voltage at the front cap?
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 24 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

metalforever wrote:
IIRc some bikes do require rejetting (Although my divvy didnt either). however i'd completely forgotten about the sv misfire problem, is it a simply case of getting a multimetre out and checking the voltage at the front cap?


Whoaaah. Step away from the bike!

Your diagnostic methods leave a lot to be desired. No of course thats not the way to do it. HT lead - the clue is in the name (High Tension) Carry an extremely high voltage. If you go jabbing a meter into it you could give yourself a nasty electric shock.

No, you need to remove the cap, then the plug, inspect the plug, replace the plug in the cap, hold the cap and put the threaded part of the plug against the engine and crank it over. If you've got a strong spark all the time then you're OK. You may also be able to notice dampness or dirt in the spark plug hole when you remove the plug.

You can also spray the plug cap with switch cleaner to see if that helps but I reckon a plug cap involved with a misfire is toast anyway.

Oh yeah, and fit a Fenda Extenda.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Thom
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 24 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest mate me and electrics generally don't get along. i can strip and rebuild everything on a bike now (given the time and tools) but bugger me if i can play around with electrics!

Ok so it's just the simple plug against cylinder head test. Im sure i can do that! Very Happy

Am i right in thinking some people apply high temperature grease around the plug cap/plug on the front cylinder of the SV to prevent moisture getting in?

Also, just how much moisture would need to be there to affect the bike like this or are you suggestions previous use in damp conditions may have caused potential damage? Im just curious because since february this bike hasnt seen rain.
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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finpos
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 24 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
hold the cap and put the threaded part of the plug against the engine and crank it over. If you've got a strong spark all the time then you're OK.


...and if you feel a surge going up your arm and that you might be having a heart attack, then you'll know that the insulation on the cap/lead has broken down. Hold the plug with a big sod-off pair of electricians insulated pliers if you don't fancy that.

Once the insulation has broken down, you'll get arcing straight to the cylinder head, i.e. it'll spark outside the engine, and cause a misfire. You can often see it sparking away to itself in the dark. You can sometimes stave this off for a short time by cooking the leads in the oven, re-routing them away from bare metal and slavering them in various things, but they are essentially borked. Get new ones.

f.
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lonner
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Joined: 09 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: 07:09 - 25 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
MarJay wrote:
hold the cap and put the threaded part of the plug against the engine and crank it over. If you've got a strong spark all the time then you're OK.


...and if you feel a surge going up your arm and that you might be having a heart attack, then you'll know that the insulation on the cap/lead has broken down. Hold the plug with a big sod-off pair of electricians insulated pliers if you don't fancy that.
Once the insulation has broken down, you'll get arcing straight to the cylinder head, i.e. it'll spark outside the engine, and cause a misfire. You can often see it sparking away to itself in the dark. You can sometimes stave this off for a short time by cooking the leads in the oven, re-routing them away from bare metal and slavering them in various things, but they are essentially borked. Get new ones.

f.





Laughing as above Thumbs Up
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 25 Apr 2009    Post subject: Re: SV650s, bogging, cutting out and running poorly. Reply with quote

Popping and banging a bit at low revs?

Could be that someone's left a vacuum cover/tube off the carb - this was what mine was like when I first got it.
Look over the carbs and see if there's anything obvious that should have a tube/cover on it.
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Thom
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PostPosted: 07:56 - 25 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

right tomorrow im going to go have a look at the bike for him, its not popping and banging really, the only times ive heard it pop are when its stalled and being restarted (So thats the additional fuel igniting from the cylinder/thats in the zorst).

I would like to think that it is the front cat/lead thats buggared so i'll go with this in mind. I'll check the vacuum fittings too whislt im on.

cheers guys, ill let you know how it goes.
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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Thom
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PostPosted: 06:07 - 27 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turns out the airfilter hadnt been changed in what would easily have been 8000miles i'd say. it was all gummed up on the inside...

So i stabbed loads of holes in it with a small screwdriver and we went riding, seemed ok, still had problems because i was careful not to lean off the mixture but a new air filter is on its way!

Thanks guys!
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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Nicky-Jano
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 27 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
check the front spark plug cap is OK, they are notorious for picking up water from the front wheel. G had this problem on his road SV and a new plug cap fixed it IIRC.


They also have a little drain hole on the right side of the front cylinder and the left of the rear, which can become blocked and keep the plug wet when it rains.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 27 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had similar probs with my sv once. Took it to the mechanic and he said the carb heater had died, replaced it and everything was fine!
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Thom
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 27 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

they have carb heaters?

In all fairness the carb heater (If they have one) wouldnt be affecting the running in this warm weather.
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 27 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably dirt in one or more of the carbs, or double check that your cable(s) are not clogged/rusted up as they may not be fully releasing once you let go of the clutch/throttle.

As others have said check to make sure your spark plugs, plus they are all identical, as I had a nasty surprise when a brand new Suzuki GS 08 came from the factory with a wrong spark plug for that model. First and last time buying a brand new Suzuki bike and quality was shit, as it had debrit in the carb which caused that jerking & stalling motion.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 27 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
they have carb heaters?

In all fairness the carb heater (If they have one) wouldnt be affecting the running in this warm weather.


See https://www.sv650.org/sv_carbicing.htm

Carb heaters a necessary standard on all UK sv650's
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Thom
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PostPosted: 06:13 - 28 Apr 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its almost summer Razz It CERTAINLY wasnt carb icing.
____________________
Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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