Yamaha RXS100 clutch and wheel spindle

[jp14]

I passed my CBT yesterday (even after stalling in the middle of a roundabout), got insured straight away (197 quid with swinton!!! Better than my mates with their 50's!!!) but I went out for a cruise and my noticed some more problems like the clutch has a really small amount of room where it actually comes into affect (has anyone else found this or does anyone know how to sort it?), but when I loosen it the lever is really wobbley so I don't know if there is meant to be a spacer or something in between where the lever and where it joins to the handle bar clamp thing which would stop this.

Also I have tried to have a look at the rear brake and I couldn't get the rear spindle out!! I unbolted the correct bolts and it just won't budge, I don't think it's seized 'cause when I turn it from the other side it will move; any suggestions?

Also, does anyone find the foot peg and the rear brake lever are too close together? Can this be adjusted to fit my canoe feet?

[mikey 2659]

for easier removal bounce the tyre while on the centre stand and pull /push on the spindle then,remove lower shock mounting nuts and pull shocks off studs so swinging arm drops low enough to allow spindle extraction without need to remove exhaust,re assemble with nut on exhaust side.the clutch lever mount can be closed up by careful use of large pliers.the adjuster slot can be filled with oil and the lever pulled to lubricate the cable,the slot should be left facing downwards.if replacing cable always use yamaha original.the screw adjuster at the clutch end that pushes on the clutch pushrod should be pointed for lower friction,if it is flat it should be replaced for better action,also grease the worm drive that activates it that is mounted in the casing.i have used a cable oiler filled with grease for two finger progressive clutch action on old cables.every rxs i ever look at has a stiff cluth action,new cable and lots of lubrication sorted both of mine!!!!!!!brakes at front always rubbish,buy a new battery once a year ,less if you do lots of indicating and braking,use silkolene super two for no smoke or decoking,pirelli mt65 my favourite tyre,city demon good,throw away yokohama or other cheap rubber as hosptal food is rubbish these days.i had 40000 miles on both of mine with no engine work but both written off by pricks in cars,thats 6 volt lighting for you!!!!

[mikey 2659]

for easier removal bounce the tyre while on the centre stand and pull /push on the spindle then,remove lower shock mounting nuts and pull shocks off studs so swinging arm drops low enough to allow spindle extraction without need to remove exhaust,re assemble with nut on exhaust side.the clutch lever mount can be closed up by careful use of large pliers.the adjuster slot can be filled with oil and the lever pulled to lubricate the cable,the slot should be left facing downwards.if replacing cable always use yamaha original.the screw adjuster at the clutch end that pushes on the clutch pushrod should be pointed for lower friction,if it is flat it should be replaced for better action,also grease the worm drive that activates it that is mounted in the casing.i have used a cable oiler filled with grease for two finger progressive clutch action on old cables.every rxs i ever look at has a stiff cluth action,new cable and lots of lubrication sorted both of mine!!!!!!!brakes at front always rubbish,buy a new battery once a year ,less if you do lots of indicating and braking,use silkolene super two for no smoke or decoking,pirelli mt65 my favourite tyre,city demon good,throw away yokohama or other cheap rubber as hosptal food is rubbish these days.i had 40000 miles on both of mine with no engine work but both written off by pricks in cars,thats 6 volt lighting for you!!!!

[mikey 2659]

for easier removal bounce the tyre while on the centre stand and pull /push on the spindle then,remove lower shock mounting nuts and pull shocks off studs so swinging arm drops low enough to allow spindle extraction without need to remove exhaust,re assemble with nut on exhaust side.the clutch lever mount can be closed up by careful use of large pliers.the adjuster slot can be filled with oil and the lever pulled to lubricate the cable,the slot should be left facing downwards.if replacing cable always use yamaha original.the screw adjuster at the clutch end that pushes on the clutch pushrod should be pointed for lower friction,if it is flat it should be replaced for better action,also grease the worm drive that activates it that is mounted in the casing.i have used a cable oiler filled with grease for two finger progressive clutch action on old cables.every rxs i ever look at has a stiff cluth action,new cable and lots of lubrication sorted both of mine!!!!!!!brakes at front always rubbish,buy a new battery once a year ,less if you do lots of indicating and braking,use silkolene super two for no smoke or decoking,pirelli mt65 my favourite tyre,city demon good,throw away yokohama or other cheap rubber as hosptal food is rubbish these days.i had 40000 miles on both of mine with no engine work but both written off by pricks in cars,thats 6 volt lighting for you!!!!

[mikey 2659]

for easier removal bounce the tyre while on the centre stand and pull /push on the spindle then,remove lower shock mounting nuts and pull shocks off studs so swinging arm drops low enough to allow spindle extraction without need to remove exhaust,re assemble with nut on exhaust side.the clutch lever mount can be closed up by careful use of large pliers.the adjuster slot can be filled with oil and the lever pulled to lubricate the cable,the slot should be left facing downwards.if replacing cable always use yamaha original.the screw adjuster at the clutch end that pushes on the clutch pushrod should be pointed for lower friction,if it is flat it should be replaced for better action,also grease the worm drive that activates it that is mounted in the casing.i have used a cable oiler filled with grease for two finger progressive clutch action on old cables.every rxs i ever look at has a stiff cluth action,new cable and lots of lubrication sorted both of mine!!!!!!!brakes at front always rubbish,buy a new battery once a year ,less if you do lots of indicating and braking,use silkolene super two for no smoke or decoking,pirelli mt65 my favourite tyre,city demon good,throw away yokohama or other cheap rubber as hosptal food is rubbish these days.i had 40000 miles on both of mine with no engine work but both written off by pricks in cars,thats 6 volt lighting for you!!!!

[mikey 2659]

for easier removal bounce the tyre while on the centre stand and pull /push on the spindle then,remove lower shock mounting nuts and pull shocks off studs so swinging arm drops low enough to allow spindle extraction without need to remove exhaust,re assemble with nut on exhaust side.the clutch lever mount can be closed up by careful use of large pliers.the adjuster slot can be filled with oil and the lever pulled to lubricate the cable,the slot should be left facing downwards.if replacing cable always use yamaha original.the screw adjuster at the clutch end that pushes on the clutch pushrod should be pointed for lower friction,if it is flat it should be replaced for better action,also grease the worm drive that activates it that is mounted in the casing.i have used a cable oiler filled with grease for two finger progressive clutch action on old cables.every rxs i ever look at has a stiff cluth action,new cable and lots of lubrication sorted both of mine!!!!!!!brakes at front always rubbish,buy a new battery once a year ,less if you do lots of indicating and braking,use silkolene super two for no smoke or decoking,pirelli mt65 my favourite tyre,city demon good,throw away yokohama or other cheap rubber as hosptal food is rubbish these days.i had 40000 miles on both of mine with no engine work but both written off by pricks in cars,thats 6 volt lighting for you!!!!

[mikey 2659]

for easier removal bounce the tyre while on the centre stand and pull /push on the spindle then,remove lower shock mounting nuts and pull shocks off studs so swinging arm drops low enough to allow spindle extraction without need to remove exhaust,re assemble with nut on exhaust side.the clutch lever mount can be closed up by careful use of large pliers.the adjuster slot can be filled with oil and the lever pulled to lubricate the cable,the slot should be left facing downwards.if replacing cable always use yamaha original.the screw adjuster at the clutch end that pushes on the clutch pushrod should be pointed for lower friction,if it is flat it should be replaced for better action,also grease the worm drive that activates it that is mounted in the casing.i have used a cable oiler filled with grease for two finger progressive clutch action on old cables.every rxs i ever look at has a stiff cluth action,new cable and lots of lubrication sorted both of mine!!!!!!!brakes at front always rubbish,buy a new battery once a year ,less if you do lots of indicating and braking,use silkolene super two for no smoke or decoking,pirelli mt65 my favourite tyre,city demon good,throw away yokohama or other cheap rubber as hosptal food is rubbish these days.i had 40000 miles on both of mine with no engine work but both written off by pricks in cars,thats 6 volt lighting for you!!!!

[cammy mack]

wtf

[Vincent]

That was unbelievable

OP - sounds like your wheel spindle is seized into the wheel bearings. It will come out with enough wallop but you'll have to replace the wheel bearings i should think. As for the clutch lever and rear brake lever, do you have any pics? Could be someone has fitted the wrong levers.
____________________
Space Is Deep

[ms51ves3]

The clutch problem just sounds like the cable needs adjusting. Is the bite point near the end of the lever travel or the beginning.

I personally prefer mine out near the end of the lever travel but it differs from person to person.

[jp14]

sorry, i wrote this quite a while ago. I've sorted out most of these things now, i ended up having to saw the spindle in two :-s!! Thanks for all your suggestions though everyone

[mikey 2659]

didn't mean to submit quite so many times,button on the mouse a bit suspect.happy riding.