Caliper Overhaul

[Knacker]

Right erm heres the story my bike failed the MOT on its front brakes binding really bad and pad thickness was below 1.3mm but as the pistons where stuck out i couldnt squeeze new pads in.

So i ordered some new caliper seal kits and got to work on taking them off stripping them and putting in new seals.

I found lots of this

https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff002.jpg
https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff004.jpg

So i gave them a good clean and got the stubborn dirt off the pistons using a light grade wet n dry very gently now i put the new seals in, But then when i put the pistons back in they didnt just slide in they where an absolute ****er to push them in and then they "popped" back in.

https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff013.jpg

All was looking really well or so i thought

https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff005.jpg
https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff012.jpg
https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff010.jpg
https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff006.jpg

I didnt even no these photo's where taken at the time otherwise i would of "Sucked it in a bit" lol

https://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/Squeaky_86_2007/Stuff007.jpg

Now i thought great everythings gone great but i just still dont seem to build up any pressure in the brakes there is enough to stop the bike but not well enough.

The lever comes right back to the bar Does anyone have any suggestion where i may have gone wrong, As seastar have told me the seal stems are too worn and i need to buy £262.09 worth of new callipers.

Also noticed 1 of the piston had 2 gouges in it but they where on the flat bit (Probably from when i was trying to get them out.

Help
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Current: Gsxr 600 Srad - GS125 - DT125
Previous: K1 GSXR 1000

[Scotsman37]

Here's a good site for getting replacement piston & seals. etc,...

https://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn

Also, it's best to bleed the front brakes together rather than seperately to avoid air bubbles being trapped.

Just visit your nearest tropical fish tank supply shop. Purchase an appropriate length of tubing (of the correct diameter that fits neatly on the bleeding nib of the caliper), Y-Splitter (or get two plastic containers instead of one) and lastly two no-return valves. This costs very little and my friend tried it works very quickly indeed!

Or if you want to pay much more get two brake bleeding kits!

Top up from the brake reservior and pull in brake lever a number of times until no more air bubbles can be seen coming through the clear plastic tubing.

[Ichy]

Did you apply any grease to the seals before pushing the pistons in?

Might be worth pulling the lever in, holding it there with a bungee cord or cable tie, and leaving it overnight.
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[Mad_Sunday]

If you take the calipers off the bike, fit a spanner (or something else flat and about the same thickness as your disc) between the pads, you will be able to bleed them ABOVE the master cylinder. That way the air will rise up the pipes. Ensure you have the nipples at the highest point too. Removing the brake lever and using a screwdriver will give you extra stroke on the master cylinder piston. This helps get the air out too. Newly fitted pistons will move a little more in operation than some that have bedded in and started to tighten up, meaning once all the air is out, it may still take a while to get a good feel from the lever.

Pete
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