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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: For people who know stuff about cars... Reply with quote

Folks.

The cylinder head gasket just went on my dad's car lastnight. Its a volvo 960 with a 2.5L I/L6 engine, manual gearbox.

I've been trawling around the internet looking for gasket kits but can't find one for this engine, I got a whiff that it may use gasket sealant as opposed to the usual card gasket but again, I can't quite confirm it.

The engine type is B6254, loads of info on other engines in the 960 but not this one. The most useful site is the thrillingly named volvoadventure.com, although it comes up in a UK search, its actually US based.

Can anyone give me clue/put me onto a site that could help? (I could just scrap the car, but its a fully loaded version, loads of gadgets that all work perfectly, would be a shame to get rid of it.)

Thanks in advance.

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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

is this of any use?
Failing that, for lack of any other useful input, I'd suggest making one yourself out of gasket material.

Also; consorting with Volvo drivers? Heresy!
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to GSF car parts. If you search for the Volvo 960, then under 'engine gaskets and seals' they list:

"CYLINDER HEAD GASKET 960 2.5i 24v B6254FS 91>96"

I think that's the one you're after.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoops: I misread the one I linked as a 2.5.
Sorry Embarassed
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

RXS100_Chris wrote:
Go to GSF car parts. If you search for the Volvo 960, then under 'engine gaskets and seals' they list:

"CYLINDER HEAD GASKET 960 2.5i 24v B6254FS 91>96"

I think that's the one you're after.


Thanks for this, ordered the gasket, £33. Its been a while since I've got in about a car engine, could be fun (or just way more expensive than originally planned... Wink )

Thanks again folks. The fact that this is not merely a bike chat forum is again underlined.

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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cardboard gaskets, instant gasket and gasket sealant will all be useless.

The head gasket on a car is usually made out of metal - usually copper or steel.

As someone said, go to GSF and get a head gasket from them. If you try to seal it with instant gasket or use a cardboard gasket it will just fail again immediately.
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup...

I phoned a place down south and they said it would be metal, they didn't have one in stock so went to the GSF place above...

Someone said its a ripe one for this £2000 P/X thing, I don't need a new car though and neither does my dad. Its just handy to have in emergencies. It costs a fortune to run, only gets about 15 to the gallon... Shocked

It is a nice car (even if it is a volvo,) all leather interior, 8 speaker stereo system, cruise control (which I can't get it work) and all sorts of other goodies.

Thanks again for the input. I'll probably resurrect this thread when it comes to do the work as I haven't a clue.

Cool
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flat spot
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have tried a Volvo dealer haven't you? Confused
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

flat spot wrote:
You have tried a Volvo dealer haven't you? Confused


I ruled that out on the basis of cost.

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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm...

I'm now being told I need to buy replacement cylinder head bolts... £2 each but 14 are required...

Can anyone confirm if this is necessary?

If this carries on, I could end up just buying a whole car in pieces.

Laughing
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Blackwolf
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think so yes, becasue when you bolt the engine together you stretch the bolts slightly
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10 pence Short
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bolts do stretch, some manufacturers give a tolerance to the stretch IE if the bolts are over ?? mm replace, not sure if thats the case with this engine, also factor in a head skim to make sure it's completely flat when you replace it, a warped head can cause the gasket to fail again very quickly.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

10 pence Short wrote:
The bolts do stretch, some manufacturers give a tolerance to the stretch IE if the bolts are over ?? mm replace, not sure if thats the case with this engine, also factor in a head skim to make sure it's completely flat when you replace it, a warped head can cause the gasket to fail again very quickly.


This is a good point - check it for flatness first though. The service manual should give tolerances, you may it flat on a sheet of glass and check the clearance between the head and the glass with feeler gauges. For a gypsy repair you could grind it back to flat on said sheet of glass using grinding paste and lots of time.
A straight 6 would be more prone to warping than a straight 4 if it has been overheated.
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've ordered bolts anyway and I've been told of a place that can check the head for warping, they seem to be a good & trustworthy.

You know what will happen now though, I'll get to bolt number 12 or 13 and it'll jam or round off or something... Whole thing written off because of one ornery bolt.

I bet you a pound...

Wink
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chrisw
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the engine is 'Over Head Cam' and uses a cam belt then you will have to change the belt as well. If this is the case then it is also advisable to change any other parts driven by the belt (tensioners, water pump etc..).

It is not uncommon to have to change the bolts when you take the head off. Vauxhall engines, for example, require this. You'd have to check with the manufacturer (or a decent garage) to see if the bolts have to be replaced. If in doubt, change them.
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisw wrote:
If the engine is 'Over Head Cam' and uses a cam belt then you will have to change the belt as well. If this is the case then it is also advisable to change any other parts driven by the belt (tensioners, water pump etc..).

It is not uncommon to have to change the bolts when you take the head off. Vauxhall engines, for example, require this. You'd have to check with the manufacturer (or a decent garage) to see if the bolts have to be replaced. If in doubt, change them.


Mmm...

To be honest, its an ancient car, I'll change the gasket, have the head checked and replace the bolts. Anything beyond that I'll pass on, if it goes pop again, it won't have been worth fixing anyway.

You could go crazy mental getting everything just so, but for the age of the car, its not worth it.

Apparently the bolts do need replaced as they are stretched somewhat. (Also, atleast one will be ruined during removal so...)

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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

pa_broon74 wrote:
flat spot wrote:
You have tried a Volvo dealer haven't you? Confused


I ruled that out on the basis of cost.

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Not always, My BMW head gaskets for the bike were cheaper than a factors. ALWAYS worth ringing for a price to check. Wink
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
To be honest, its an ancient car, I'll change the gasket, have the head checked and replace the bolts. Anything beyond that I'll pass on, if it goes pop again, it won't have been worth fixing anyway.

You could go crazy mental getting everything just so, but for the age of the car, its not worth it.


Just be aware that you cannot re-tension a cambelt, sure fire way to cause failure and fuck the engine.

If the cambelt has to be removed for this job, then you will need a new belt, and advisable to get a new tensioner.

Things like water pump etc, can be ignored, but often its false economy, because if that item ever fails, you will have to remove belt and tensioner etc all again to replace it, and thus buy new bits again.
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe...

As I said, its an old car so far from perfect in terms of mechanics. I'm not going to over analize it, just fix the problem I can see and take it from there.

I was going to say its not that complicated but I won't, because if I do it will become complicated. (Me saying it there at the beginning of the previous sentence doesn't count by the way...)

Wink
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chrisw
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

pa_broon74 wrote:

I was going to say its not that complicated but I won't, because if I do it will become complicated. (Me saying it there at the beginning of the previous sentence doesn't count by the way...)


About the cam belt - you really should change it if it has to be removed, there's nothing more to it, the risk is a possible catastrophic failure.

As for being a difficult job. Most difficult part is usually getting the manifolds off, of the two, the exhaust will probably cause you most bother. Expect none of the bolts/studs/nuts to come out without snapping. If any/all do come out think yourself lucky.
Second difficult part is usually the crank pulley bolt, these normally require large (+6ft) breaker bars or an impact gun.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

pa_broon74 wrote:
Someone said its a ripe one for this £2000 P/X thing,


Just watch out, as you go to the dealers and that nice price shown in the car advert, will not be avaiable to you...
The 2K will come off the retail list price....

The 6K i paid for my car that was reg in Nov 08 and had 10 miles on. When asking about the 2K allowance, became a 09, with the same miles on.... And to get the same spec was £200 dearer.....

So you have to wonder just how good it this is going to be.
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thegubner
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if it has been mentioned as i have not read the whole thread, try ringing a volvo main dealer and ask for the parts department. They should be able to provide you with the right gasket.

Failing that, try automotive firms like europarts or andrew page who seem to be nationwide, supply them with the reg and they should be able to provide all and any parts you require.

Hope that helps.
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Jrod
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing @ anyone who said make one.

If you dont replace the bolts there is a good chance they can snap when doing them up. Don't replace the cambelt and if it snaps in a few weeks you will of wasted your time and money on the headgasket.
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pa_broon74
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 15 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ta.

I've got a gasket on order along with bolts. Fortunately its not my main mode of transport so if it sits for a day or two its not a tragedy (although with the weather today, its hard to say...)

I was looking around and reading about torque settings for the bolts, but I think I'm going to conform to the international FT standard in terms of nut and bolt torque.

We'll see how it goes, if it doesn't work then fair do's, no harm done. I have another car sitting waiting be prepared for MOT. (I seem to be awash with motors just now, two bikes and two cars plus a transit van when needed...)

Thanks for all the advice, as I said before, the breadth & variety of advice that can be gleaned (from cam belt advice to when someone last shit themselves) is nothing short of exceedingly useful.

Laughing

OK, I give in. I'll get a cam belt too. Thumbs Up
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