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bacon
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Oil level advice Reply with quote

Hey, did an oil change yesterday on my b1, changed filter etc, let it drain for ages, tilted bike back and forth to get as much as i could out

I dont have a paddock stand or anything so i was filling it, tilting it towards me, topping up etc

The bike took about 3.8-3.9L, book says 3.6 with a filter change..

Ran the engine and topped it up a bit. With the oil fully warmed up and the engine off with oil left to settle, it went slightly over the upper line, and on a cold engine checked this morning the oil sits between the levels (slightly towrads upper)

With the engine "running" after a quick half hour ride a min ago, the oil sits between upper and lower level quite nicely, slightly towards the upper level

I was just wondering if using more oil than it said too is a problem? I know overfilling can cause pressure problems bursting seals and a stiff clutch.

never changed oil before, so wondered in what state you read the oil level , sorry to be a pain
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Mudskipper
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Re: Oil level advice Reply with quote

bacon wrote:
Hey, did an oil change yesterday on my b1, changed filter etc, let it drain for ages, tilted bike back and forth to get as much as i could out

I dont have a paddock stand or anything so i was filling it, tilting it towards me, topping up etc

The bike took about 3.8-3.9L, book says 3.6 with a filter change..

Ran the engine and topped it up a bit. With the oil fully warmed up and the engine off with oil left to settle, it went slightly over the upper line, and on a cold engine checked this morning the oil sits between the levels (slightly towrads upper)

With the engine "running" after a quick half hour ride a min ago, the oil sits between upper and lower level quite nicely, slightly towards the upper level

I was just wondering if using more oil than it said too is a problem? I know overfilling can cause pressure problems bursting seals and a stiff clutch.

never changed oil before, so wondered in what state you read the oil level , sorry to be a pain


I would be cautious overfilling. I made a right mess on my GXSR400 doing that. Embarassed Paranoia about underfilling led to me overfilling, which caused a leak which fuelled the paranoia about it being underfilled even more, led to me frantically topping up and creating a viscious circle. This was two years ago btw, I'm not such a fuckwit anymore! Laughing

I tend to go by the book when doing an oil change now, never had any problems.

Personally I would not be comfortable having 300ml plus the 'topped up a bit' amount more than the book says in a bike.

How are you checking the level? Upright, on stand etc. How does the manual say to check it?
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stesmith
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i done a full oil change on mine the other day, its a B1. let the oil get about between the lines and let it run.

when i returned it was just below the lines and it used up near enough a full 4L of oil.

But mine was on paddock stands, and half of the engines oil ended up all over the road when some old biddy knocked me off and smashed my stator cover!

My dad's rode bikes for 30 odd years and stripped and serviced more bikes than iv had hot dinners and he said it would be fine.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont have a paddock stand, so checking the level im going onto the oil level side, and tipping the bike towards me (away from the side stand) till its level, and reading the glass

manual is kinda useless tbh, says fill up to upper level, let the engine run and top up. doesnt say if it should be at the upper level when its cold, warm, hot, running etc

yeah the 4L container is almost empty in mine too, hmm
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, what i did was decant the old oil into a measuring jug so i knew exactly what had come out. Put the same amount back in. Run...Settle..Check

Pat
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bacon
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Hi, what i did was decant the old oil into a measuring jug so i knew exactly what had come out. Put the same amount back in. Run...Settle..Check

Pat


should have done that.....oh well
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its pretty safe to rely on the level in the site glass as long as the bike is level, I personally feel its more realistic than measuring.

Its a bit misleading to measure what you take out and put the same back since your bike with naturally burn/lose oil over time.
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S1KE
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

What kinda oil you guys using in your b1h ninjas just out of interest?

I'm using silkolene fully synthetic....

And if I change the oil with the filter it will take the full 4 litres as the manual says it will...

Mike
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

With Kaw's always keep the oil about 2mm from the top of the window (with the engine off, obviously) It prevents expensive noises.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
With Kaw's always keep the oil about 2mm from the top of the window (with the engine off, obviously) It prevents expensive noises.


so a cold engine? or a hot engine?

Not running, you say the oil should be almost covering the entire window?

guessing when it runs, that the oil is at the upper level marker?
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bacon
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

zxrmike26 wrote:
Hi,

What kinda oil you guys using in your b1h ninjas just out of interest?

I'm using silkolene fully synthetic....

And if I change the oil with the filter it will take the full 4 litres as the manual says it will...

Mike


i used Castrol 4T fully synthetic stuff, was about £40-£45 for 4 litres, its pink in colour actually heh

thnk i may need to top my bike up a bit from what iv read here Smile
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Ben.
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

rules for checking oil:

1 - the bike has to be totally level, so no paddock stands, no side stands etc.

2 - what does the manual say? If it says use 10w 30 semi synth, dont use 10w 30 fully synth. It will tell you how to check the oil, some say run the engine for 30 seconds then check the oil, some say check it from cold.

3 - dont trust what the amount says, use you sight glass or dip stick.

and fill your filter up with oil before you put it on the bike, it ruins the bearings otherwise.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

half_lyfe wrote:
and fill your filter up with oil before you put it on the bike, it ruins the bearings otherwise.


what?
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Ben.
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
half_lyfe wrote:
and fill your filter up with oil before you put it on the bike, it ruins the bearings otherwise.


what?


the bearings in the oil filter... if you run it dry and wait for oil to fill it up, its running with no oil for a couple of seconds, do you run your engine without oil for a couple of seconds?
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Mudskipper
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

half_lyfe wrote:

the bearings in the oil filter... if you run it dry and wait for oil to fill it up, its running with no oil for a couple of seconds, do you run your engine without oil for a couple of seconds?


So everyone's been doing it wrong all these years?!

I'd like to see you manouvering a filter full of oil horizontally into place on most bikes! Laughing
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bacon wrote:

manual is kinda useless tbh, says fill up to upper level, let the engine run and top up. doesnt say if it should be at the upper level when its cold, warm, hot, running etc


Check it when the motor's cold (or been switched off for 3-4 minutes after running)

Because it's a "wet sump" engine when it's running it's unlikely you'll see any oil in the sight window as it's busy lubricating the engine, it all comes back when you turn the engine off. Sometimes all the oil can take a few minutes to make it's way back to the sump.

You check dry sump engines differently, but they are rarer (RSV mille, RSV4, and few big single engines are all I can think of at the moment RC8 maybe, anyway don't worry about these for now).

Personally I tend to ignore what the manufacturer says and keep filling it until it's on the upper level.

If you do overfill it slightly chances are it'll chuck a bit out of the breather or something before it starts busting seals.

If you know you've fucked up and overfilled it big time drain it all and start again before you run it.

In my experience I've never had problems checking the oil on paddock stands on level ground.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

half_lyfe wrote:


the bearings in the oil filter... if you run it dry and wait for oil to fill it up, its running with no oil for a couple of seconds, do you run your engine without oil for a couple of seconds?


Goddamn it I now have to go and check my oil filter bearings for damage.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 05:30 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bacon wrote:
ZRX61 wrote:
With Kaw's always keep the oil about 2mm from the top of the window (with the engine off, obviously) It prevents expensive noises.


so a cold engine? or a hot engine?

Not running, you say the oil should be almost covering the entire window?

guessing when it runs, that the oil is at the upper level marker?

Doesn't really matter if it's hot or cold, just so long as it's almost filling the window.
Once the engine starts it will disappear from the window altogether anyway.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going to fit titanium and carbon fibre oil filter bearings to the Badger now. What was it that Sickpup said about workshop advice?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can let you have some of them bearings cheap but your going to need an osmosis seal with a slipper ring for them to work properly. I recommend nano bearings since they last longer, being generous I'll let you have a bag full and I'll even chuck in 1hr of tech support for 50 quid.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mudskipper wrote:

I'd like to see you manouvering a filter full of oil horizontally into place on most bikes! Laughing


I am not sure what the filter bearings thing is all about Confused but I too pre-fill my filters ...

Its not as silly as it sounds, if you fill the filter with oil, it saves those few seconds (or even tenths is a bonus) it takes to fill and flow ... remember the filter has paper element in it, the oil is actually held pretty well in there ... if you keep it 'spinning' when maneuvering it to put it on, then centrifugal force is your friend too ...

People have been chucking on dry filters for years, but pre-filling isn't going to do any harm now is it ... its potentially going to be doing some good too (well less harm) .. .

As for the OP, you need to be checking the oil level once cold. i.e. now the bike has been run to get the oil everywhere, you should ideally let it cool and re-check.

As a tip, if you put a spirit level on the tank cap, you can get a repeatable 'level'. Chances are your perceived change in oil level is nothing more than a reading/measuring error.

Its best to keep between the lines obviously, but if its a gnats c0ck over the top mark, then I'd not worry too much myself. If its over the top of the sight glass, then drain some off ... Thumbs Up
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted a new oil filter but I forgot to remove the axle roller bearing hub plate transit bolt and I ruined it.

Take note people, the best way to free your oil filter bearings is to drill a small hole through the top of it before you fit it to your bike.

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