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Tips for adjusting clutch properly

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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Tips for adjusting clutch properly Reply with quote

I can get mine to work, but I think I had mine set up without enough freeplay last time.

I /really/ prefer a sharp clutch, so it's a bit of a hard call for me, so I was wondering what you guys do?

Do you wind in the handlebar adjusters fully (loads of free play) and then do the lower under it seems tight ish. Or do you wind out the top one fully, set up the bottom and then wind up the free play?

I know I should just ride it around, but it always feels fine, I just don't trust it now (after the last 2 months drama of adjusting it in and out to stop the slipping, new clutch tomorrow Mr. Green)
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 04:57 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you're describing is adjusting the clutch CABLE, adjusting the clutch is something else entirely....
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 08:05 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
What you're describing is adjusting the clutch CABLE, adjusting the clutch is something else entirely....


Indeed ...

As for the OP, for me it depends on the bike and what I am using it for ... it also depends how 'grabby' the clutch is ...

On my trials bike I like the clutch to engage when the leave is close(er) to the bars, on my corsser, I like it a fair ways out .. I like it about half way out on my road bike ... I like it a fair ways out on my track bikes ....

As you can tell from this ... I am not sure I have a single answer for how I like mine ....

How 'grabby' is your clutch?
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salty21
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

while were on the topic of cluch stuff, i have a quick question thats been niggling me for a while.

how long would the clutch plates last on average in a sports 6? and how would you know when it's on its way out apart from the obvious clutch slip when accelerating.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 09:49 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
while were on the topic of cluch stuff, i have a quick question thats been niggling me for a while.

how long would the clutch plates last on average in a sports 6? and how would you know when it's on its way out apart from the obvious clutch slip when accelerating.


I think that massively depends on the user/use of the bike! But we are talking tens of thousands with 'normal' use (whatever 'normal' is!! Laughing).

Needing to tighten up/adjust the leaver freeplay is a fairly good indicator, but it can also simply be the cable stretching/wearing. I've had to replace more cables than clutches ...
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
What you're describing is adjusting the clutch CABLE, adjusting the clutch is something else entirely....


Do enlighten me... ?

How does one adjust the actual clutch?

But yeh, I'm after how to adjust the clutch cable.

Also, is it normal to find the old plates looking very dry... Thinking I'd already drained the old about half an hour before, but there didn't even seem to be a residue on some of them (at the top).

I'm worried I've got a blocked oil pipe somehow/where? Brick Wall
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 07 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and I meant tips for doing the cable properly. I think I exacerbated my clutch problems by over tightening the cable, so it was never fully engaged.

As I like to have a hair trigger clutch, this is a fine line.

The way I've done it now is to make sure the lifting arm moves a bit (~1mm travel furthest away from pivot) with just finger prodding. Is that going to suffice?
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 08:20 - 08 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

LukeVFR wrote:


If you put the lever adjustment all the way in and adjust the bottom, if you ever need to adjust the clutch slightly one way you'll need to take the fairings off and adjust the bottom.


Oh no, I got that. But on the CBR it's usually good for a long time anyway. (usually Crying or Very sad)

But like I say, I think I had it set too tight last time, which meant the clutch was never fully engaged and therefore promoted more wear (the equivalent of weak/fubared springs). Want to avoid that now.

Oh well, road test in a bit, I've left that mm of movement and put the free play out a bit more, so hopefully that will be long lived even if it's not as sharp.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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