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GSXR 400 Cylinder Issues

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Renton
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 04 Jun 2009    Post subject: GSXR 400 Cylinder Issues Reply with quote

Can anyone suggest a few things to check as to why it only seems to be running on 3 cylinders and not 4?

Carbs have been cleaned, balanced, gaskets replaced, o-rings replaced and all sparks replaced.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 04 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's got a loud top-end rattle (even with the engine warmed up) then it could be a broken valve spring.

The only other thing I can think of is the rubbish OEM HT leads. The plug cap sometimes seperates from the wire causing the spark to happen between the top of the plug and the cap rather than at the bottom of the plug where it should be.

Replacement suzuki ones are about £22 each or something. I've had one go on my Gixxer and it gave me issues like your experiencing.

HTH
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Renton
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PostPosted: 07:30 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Timmeh.

How would I know if it is the leads for definite though, (without buying new ones) would it just be a case of looking at them thoroughly?


One stupid question, what does OEM stand for? Have never known.
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Mudskipper
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chalky wrote:

One stupid question, what does OEM stand for? Have never known.


Original Equipment Manufacturer.
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the grim reaper
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check each spark plug against the block (whils using rubber handled grips and gloves and standing well clear of the bike) to see which one (s) aren't sparking. Check the contact in the cap between the HT lead and the Plug top and, if necessary, clean the contacts ect. Also measure the resistance of the HT lead and coil, you might not know the official figures but, if one is playing up, it should show up as different to the other 3.

Cheers

Grim
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like time for a compresion test, should be between 150psi - 220psi (with a minimum 115psi).
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Renton
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 05 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.

Will start with the HT leads and see where I go from there.

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alun111
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 06 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you thoroughly check your carbs when you re-built them? Did you replace the dreaded o-rings? I'd loosen the drain screw on each carb to make sure fuel comes out...

Did you set the float heights correctly?

Does the missing cylinder kick in at certain revs?
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Renton
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 11 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

alun111 wrote:
Did you thoroughly check your carbs when you re-built them? Did you replace the dreaded o-rings? I'd loosen the drain screw on each carb to make sure fuel comes out...

Did you set the float heights correctly?

Does the missing cylinder kick in at certain revs?


Carbs checked and cleaned thoroughly, was doing it with an experienced mechanic.

O-ring replaced. Gaskets replaced.

There was a little fuel test we did with a bit or clear pipe from the bottom of the carbs.

All float heights set.

I don't think so.




Have managed to get hold of the real manual for the bike - was a treaure hunt - but hopefully that should help answer some questions Very Happy .
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veze
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 15 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would do a compression test to be honest matey. have u tried to balance the carbs? i would check compression to be on the safe side, and you could rule out alot of possible problems by doing it to be honest. and if the test reads ok, at the presures stated earlier in this thread, at least you know you have a sound and good top end.
oh and it mite be worth popping on to www.400greybike.info
those folks are realy helpfull with imports.
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alun111
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 15 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you get anywhere with the ht leads? I'd also replace the spark plug cap of the offending cylinder too.
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Creepin Moses
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 15 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heard someone once say that a bike running whilst on the side stand can set the carbs off balance, which would I assume cause it to miss occaisionaly on the cylinder farthest away from side stand. Side stand has bike leen over to left side Causing a rush of fuel to left side carbs, thus starves the right side carbs of fuel.
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Renton
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

veze wrote:
i would do a compression test to be honest matey. have u tried to balance the carbs? i would check compression to be on the safe side, and you could rule out alot of possible problems by doing it to be honest. and if the test reads ok, at the presures stated earlier in this thread, at least you know you have a sound and good top end.
oh and it mite be worth popping on to www.400greybike.info
those folks are realy helpfull with imports.


Maybe a dumb question, but what's a compression test?

Have had the carbs balanced at least once in the last year, would they need doing again?

Am already a member on 400gb Smile



Quote:
Did you get anywhere with the ht leads? I'd also replace the spark plug cap of the offending cylinder too.


Bike is with the mech, am gonna have a chat with him now, will talk to him about the HT's an let ya know how it goes.


Quote:
I heard someone once say that a bike running whilst on the side stand can set the carbs off balance, which would I assume cause it to miss occaisionaly on the cylinder farthest away from side stand. Side stand has bike leen over to left side Causing a rush of fuel to left side carbs, thus starves the right side carbs of fuel.


I wouldn't have thought that being on the side stand would have made that much difference, but it is something to keep in mind. Thanks.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

A compression test is a test that determines that you're getting the same level of compression in all the cylinders: specifically, it is often used to check piston ring or valve seal integrity.

A compression tester is screwed into the sparkplug hole, and the engine is turned over, using the starter motor. If the tester reads below the normal pressure, then you know that there's something wrong with the cylinder in question.
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