Honda H100 SD...... Is it Overheating????

[britishmeat]

Ok then, took my CBT yesterday... bike got delivered at 7pm

Took the "beast" out when i got home, didn't get very far and the bike cut out would start again

So then...... what is wrong, i don't think i am getting a spark so i want to get a new spark plug today but i don't have any idea where to get one on a sunday? if it was car parts it wouldn't be a problem but bike parts, no idea!!!

Help???

[MarJay]

[britishmeat]

I got told that the old fuel was maybe a bit old so i drained out the old stuff and put some new stuff in, Have tried kicking it and i am just getting nothing, it is cranking over but it doesn't even sound like it is trying to ignite, i took the spark plug out and rested it on the top of the engine and kicked the bike other afew times and i couldn't see any spark.

Will try a new spark plug and report back!!!!

[cammy mack]

also check your points mate. ive got a spare set if you want them

[stinkwheel]

Also check the frame earth where the ignition coil attaches isn't all corroded.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[britishmeat]

[britishmeat]

[stinkwheel]

The ignition system on that bike is very simple indeed.

A seperate coil in the dynamo makes power for the spark, it is timed by a set of old-fashioned, mechanical contact breaker points and condenser. These are connected to the ignition (HT) coil by a single wire.

The coil is bolted to the frame, this is also the earth connection for the low tension side of the coil, if the area the coil bolts to is rusty, you can have a bad contact.

Does it still have a spark? What does the sparkplug electrode on your new plug look like (brown coating, white coating, sooty, oily, scorched?).

Did you remember to turn the choke off? Does it have fuel in? Is the fuel tap switched on?

How long has the bike been stood for?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[britishmeat]

thankyou... making a little more sense now....

Ok so the dyanmo (electric generator) creates a pulse which sparks the spark plug. And this pulse is created every time the points touch which happens at a certain time on a single rotor spin..... is that about right??? what does this condesor do and what does it look like?? i have seen the pictures of the "points" in the CG thread but have no idea what a condensor is or what it does?

Bike has fuel, spark plug is wet. i am getting a spark now and the bike will start every now and again but then idles for a bit and then dies! its as if you ride it for a bit and once it cools down it will start again!!! I reakon if i try in the morning i could get another 10 mins!!!

it is as if when the bike warms up, the spark is getting weak and not enough to keep it going and in my head this would explain why the bike was running well at high revs as the dynamo would be spinning really fast and creating a good pulse/spark...

so could be my dynamo be on its way out, it could it be the points, it could be this condensor or it cold be the coil? maybe....

[hmmmnz]

ok ill try and clear it up

a dynamo/generator/alternator are all basically the same thing in that they all make power (there are differences but we'll forego them)

they dont make a pulse, the points are what creates the spark,
they do this by opening at a certain point, when they open the electricity heads to the coil (essentially a transformer) which boosts the voltage to a few thousand volts and then into the spark plug,

a condenser is another name for a capacitor, it essentially resists electrical change, and stores small amounts of electricity and releases it when there is a change, (eg when there is a drop in voltge it will release some electricity to keep it the same)
https://tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:GBtpisoFctPIVM:https://lh5.ggpht.com/_dZul3NaoDR8/ResDzfDkryI/AAAAAAAAAk4/HcA_1CpZVLg/DSC05089.JPGthe condensor is the silver tube looking thing


what i would do in your situation is remove the plug, take off the timing cover with the points underneath and with a small bit of sand paper give the points a light sand (slid the paper betwen the points)
then with the spark plug in the plug cap and with it rested against the engine, turn the engine over slowly and watch the points to see if they open and close, (its only a small amount that they open)
if that is all good then speed up the speed you are turning over the engine and now when the points open the spark plug should spark, if thats ok, then

i would pull the carb off and clean it out and sok all the jets ect in carb cleaner, and reset all the screws back to standard (should be in your workshop manual if you have one)

once you have a clean carb and a good spark it should start, but there could be more too it....

being a 2 stroke you also need good compression to allow the fuel to be sucked through all the transfer ports and make its way above the piston to be burnt,

it could be stuck rings, on my little b120 i pull the head every 1000-2000km and clean the piston and rings and the groove that the rings sit in.
its a very easy job, but make sure you stuff a rag between the condod and the bottom end to stop any crap falling in,

have fun
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[britishmeat]

thankyou for your explanations

Carb has been cleaned, i have a spark with evrery kick, sometimes starts up and can last a min or so, sometimes starts up and dies straight away. when she starts up the idle is all over the place and when you rev it doesn't idle afterwards and just dies!

If i am getting a spark every time do i still need to check the points??

Also have good compression

i just don't know what else to do

[cammy mack]

it could be fuel starvation mate. have you checked the air screw on the carb?maybe too much air in the mix. i had the same kinda problem with my h100. ended up binning it

[britishmeat]

ummm.... i dont know, does anybody know how many turns each screw should be, my manual has not been delivered yet?

not sure what my next step is.......

will try cleaning the points, cleaning the carb and adjusting carb screws!!! Maybe some new coil!!!!

[hmmmnz]

nah if you are getting a good spark then chances are they are sweet as,
looks like its time to pull off the barrell and have a look, its very simple and everything can be re-used,
2 strokes need to be de-coked quite regulary,
i take it you have the standard airbox and filter????
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[britishmeat]

I am getting a spark, if it is a good spark i dont really know as i have nothing to compare it to.... i have been playing with it alot this evening and my spark plug seems to be black and wet.

Can you please explain pull off the barrel and have a look... what is the barrel and what am i looking for?

all bike is standard

[hmmmnz]

lol, the barrel is what the piston moves up and down inside of
on the top of your engine there should be 4 bolts,
unscrew them, the cylindr head should come off, if you look in the top you'll see the top of your piston,
now unscrew/unbolt your exhaust,
then remove your carb,
now the cylinder is free, slowly pull it free of the piston,
when you have it off,
look down inside the barrel at the bore and see if there is any grooves or scratches in the liner, it shouldn't have any,

now hold the con rod (the long metal peices that joins the piston to the crank) and gently move the piston up and down,
there shouldnt be any up/down play un the bearing, if there is then you'll need a new small end bearing,

next pull of the con rod and see if you can feel any up/down play in the bottom end (big end bearing) again there shouldnt be any play up/down, side to side is fine,

now stuff a clean rag around the bottom of the conrod to stop any dirt or grit getting in the bottom end,

with a pair of long nose pliers remove the circlip on 1 side of the piston and push the pin out through that side

the piston will now be free of the conrod, and the small end bearing will be sitting inside the top of the conrod,

remove the rings 1 at a time taking care not to break them,
they may be stuck by all the carbon, if thats the case use some wd40 and a small screwdriver to try and get rid of some of the carbon and try and free up the rings

take both the rings out, clean up the top of the piston of all carbon,
and make sure the ring slots are also free of crap, (there will be a ring locating pin in each ring gap, thats normal and is normally made of brass or somtimes its just a bit of aliminium sticking out, depending on the locating system of the rings)
get it all cleaned up and then put a ring inside the barrel/bore and check the ring gap (the amount of gap between each end of the ring when its inside the barrel, normally you'd measure this, but as long as its not to much thicker than a couple of peices of paper it should be fine)

now put the rings back on the piston and locate them to the pins (cut out on the ring to the pin in the ring gap)

put the piston back on the conrod slide the piston pin back in place
put the circlip back and make sure its sitting in its groove,
then push the cylinder back on(tricky part)
you should have a taper on the bottom of the cylinder to make this easier, but you have to squeese the ring while sliding the barrel down, make sure the rings stay in there locating spots,

slide the barrel all the way down put the head back on and bolt up in a criss cross pattern,
connect every thing back up.

and thats it,

from memory you have a piston port engine, so no reed valves to worry about.

have fun
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[britishmeat]

[MarJay]

Only more modern circlip designs can be re-used, my RDs for example have non reusable circlips that bend when you remove them.

So you may need to buy parts...
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[britishmeat]

ooooo........ i better not take the piston off until i have a new clip then!!!

[Robby]

I assume you have plenty of two stroke oil the tank?

And I assume you know how to use a choke as well - choke on for starting, then off once the engine is warm enough to not need it.

[britishmeat]

[britishmeat]

ok, taken cyclinder head off, barrel looks good, piston has lots of play left and right but none up and down, con rod has a little bit of play left and right! Piston rings seem very big and I can get the cylinder back onto the piston! Help! LOL

[stirlinggaz]

"The choke cuts off by its self when the engine is warm...."

Hi,
you sure the choke cuts off by itself?
i thought that bike didnt have auto choke?
i thought it had the good old fashioned manual type?
where by you pull up the knob when starting & push it back down after a minute or 2?
or on a lever on the bar,which you pull down to start the bike.
both the same principal, they pull on a cable,which leads to the carb.
on the other end of the cable there is either little piston shaped thing,(on most 2 strokes) that lifts up when "on"
or it open/closes a butterfly valve (on most 4 strokes)
i wouldnt be ripping the cylinder apart just yet, lol
could be something as simple as the choke being stuck on (disconnect it?)
or the wrong spark plug (replace it)
or theres a pile of crap in the bottom of the fuel tank, being sucked up in the carb.(fit an in line fuel filter)
all cheap/free fixes.
or the carb floats are sticking.
change the plug, check for a spark.
check the plug is getting wet,
set the carb to stock settings,
check the compression,(borrow a compression tester)
good luck.
cheers,
GAZ
edit : OOPS, look like i was too late., lol
have you checked the compression?
generally, i would check the compression before ripping the cylinder apart.
do you have the workshop manual? (or at least a haynes?)

[britishmeat]

Yep, toooo late, still can't get the cylinder back on the bloody piston!

[Kickstart]

Hi

The H100 does not have an automatic choke.

The rings are pegged (ie, the ends "meet" either side of the peg) so will sit in one position. You need to rotate the rings into position, hold then tightly into the piston and slide the barrel down onto them.

All the best

Keith
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