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Shims and Valves?

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Chriss
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shim
https://www.dual-star.com/index2/Images%20JPG/KLR_650_Valve_Shims.JPG

Valve
https://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00RCPtbgQdJIqkM/Intake-Exhaust-Valve-Stem.jpg

Good guide here: https://www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm
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salty21
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i heard that shims are used as currency in hell.
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ThoughtContro...
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Re: Shims and Valves? Reply with quote

the warped one wrote:
What the hell is the difference?

Cheers

Warped


You change shims to adjust valve clearances on bikes that don't use screws and locking nuts for doing the same. And looking at this video it looks to be a right pain in the arse.

https://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363
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salty21
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

in the vid the guy uses a shim tool( a hook shaped thing to press the cam follower down so you can remove the shim without removing the cam. would this tool work on any shimmed bike, namely mine?
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
in the vid the guy uses a shim tool( a hook shaped thing to press the cam follower down so you can remove the shim without removing the cam. would this tool work on any shimmed bike, namely mine?
Some bikes with shim type valves have the shim on top of the bucket so you can use a tool like you describe. Different manufacturers have different ways of doing it but they all basically push the bucket down so you can grab the shim.

Some bikes however have the shim under the bucket which means you have to take the camshaft out, slide the bucket out and then grab the shim.
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salty21
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

knowing how much of an arse my bike seems to be for thing's like this i would put money on the shims being under the bucket's Rolling Eyes .

What are the chances of replacing several shims at once and all of them being spot on first time?. I know in theory you should expect them to be aslong as you do your math's right but in my limited experience that would be to easy
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ZaphodBeeble
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
What are the chances of replacing several shims at once and all of them being spot on first time?.


Before you decide to replace shims you first need to see which ones need replacing, if any, by checking your valve clearances. You will need to take the valve cover off the top of your engine and use a feeler gauge to check the gaps beneath each cam lobe on all 16 valves. The cam lobe needs to be, basically, pointing upwards from the valve shims/buckets to allow you to check the clearance. Removing your spark plugs will allow you to turn the engine over easier, either by putting the bike in top gear and rotating the back wheel or by the usual method of removing the small crank inspection cover and turning it using a socket wrench. I think the cover is on the right on the RR. You should buy a manual before attempting this though! Thumbs Up
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salty21
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol i should have mentioned that i have already checked them twice and a couple were starting to tighten up last time i checked so will probably have to reset a few in the not so distant future, the only thing i was a bit worried about was taking out the cams, lifters and shims as that's new territory for me and seems a little daunting given the price for a small mistake could be catastophic Shocked . Im adament i'm going to do it myself though.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 16 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify, shims are under the bucketse on the F models, so I'd imagine it wouldn't be any easier on the newer bikes either...
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

the warped one wrote:
Embarassed Embarassed Embarassed

Shims and Tappets, or what ever they are called?

How the hell do you tighten shims?

Why do some bikes have one and other have the other?

Cheers

A very embarrassed Warped
They are discs of metal available in various thickness. If your gap is to small you swap to a thinner shim, if the gap is too large, you substitute a thicker shim.

For my old FJ1200s I bought spare shims of various sizes (cost me a pound a shim), they could be swapped with the proper tool, but I preferred to use a small flat bladed screwdriver as it was easier and quicker.

On the FJs it was easier to adjust the valves than the screw and locknut type on my two current bikes. Having said that, my Africa Twin rarely needs them adjusting, maybe one valve out of the six every 30,000 miles or so and even that just by a 'metric' smidgen.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been asked before, but just for reference...

What can cause clearances to get tighter or wider? Valve train is very noisy on my cbr. Had them done last year, but maybe they need doing again?

Drained out some REALLY manky oil when I got the bike, hadn't done more than about 2k miles in the 2~3 years before i got it. It's since done about 10k miles, been serviced and had a couple of oil changes.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
Tappy / rattly valvegear is usually down to wear of moving parts (cam lobes / followers etc). The phenom of clearances tightening is due to valve seat recession or valve stem stretch.


Is this a big deal or not?
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too loose and you get the rattle, and possibly a drop in performance in more extreme circumstances as the valves opening operation become sloppy.

Too tight and in extreme circumstances it may affect compression and thus performance, as the valves are prevented from closing completely.

My only in depth experience of valves is from diesel engines in vans, in one instance after a cambelt failure, i had to replace the valve pushrods, but I ignored the valve clearances adjustment, considering it a minor point.

Upon re-assembly of course the van didnt start because there was no compression, because all the new pushrods were a different length than the old. This single event made me realise the significance of the valve clearance adjustment. During the adjustment process, during which you turn the crankshaft several times by hand to get all the pistons in the correct position for individual valve adjustment, you could actually hear the gradual change in compression and air movement, as the valves got closer to where they should be.

In truth with bikes, I have never had one long enough/completed enough miles to warrant a check, let alone an adjustment. Shims look like a right faff, not to mention expensive, and on small inline 4 honda engines (the most common i've had) it is not an unusual story to find they never need adjusting.
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Mudskipper
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are the risks in putting off checking the clearances on, say, an old GSXR750...? Shifty Embarassed
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 17 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stupid valves....

Should of got a two smoke...
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