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proximity
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Handling issues Reply with quote

Bike in question is a 98 VFR800 with 50k on the clock.
My dad has the same bike, but with 18k on it.

I had a ride of his bike and the difference is like night and day. The main difference seems to be that as i turn into a corner on his bike, the front end feels rock steady like its got a steering damper or something the bars hardly move at all during a corner, and as i cruise round the bend it just stays solid and on track as if the wheel is glued to the road.

Then we go to my bike, it falls into the corner much more but it feels like the front end is really loose and as i go round the corner i dont feel confident on it and any slight bumps cause the front end to wobble/weave, whereas the other bike just rides as if it was completely smooth.

I have BT020 tyres with plenty of tread. My dads bike has had pilot sports and now maxxis supermaxx and performed the same with both.

Our shocks and forks are adjusted to the same settings although his feels much stiffer, although when riding you feel less bumps which is odd.

Any help is MUCH appreciated as i am at a loss with this one..

Jason
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a new rear shock, new suspension linkage bushes and new fork oil.

Simples.

(Oh yeah before you do that, check your wheel bearings and head bearings - either way fresh fork oil won't go amiss but at 50k I'd be surprised of the rear shock absorber still absorbs shocks.)
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proximity
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would the rear shock affect low speed aswell such as roundabouts?

Edit: The head bearings are fine i checked them
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Last edited by proximity on 20:25 - 28 Jun 2009; edited 2 times in total
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

proximity wrote:
Would the rear shock affect low speed aswell such as roundabouts?


Of course. And the head bearings, and possibly the wheel bearings.
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proximity
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
proximity wrote:
Would the rear shock affect low speed aswell such as roundabouts?


Of course. And the head bearings, and possibly the wheel bearings.


Even if it had no bumps?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

proximity wrote:


Even if it had no bumps?


That doesn't make any sense to me. Do you mean the bearings have no notches, or do you mean the bike hasn't hit any bumps?

At 50k mate, it doesn't need to have hit any bumps to be fcuked. Consider that Honda only test most of their bikes up to 30k miles and realise that anything beyond 30k is high mileage. Rear shocks often only last 10-15k miles before being up the creek.
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proximity
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok cheers. I will try to get hold of a new shock.

What i meant was if there are no bumps on the roundabout is the suspension still affecting the handling?
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, in answer to your question does your suspension affect handling even on a smooth road..yes is the short answer.
Suspension is working all the time even on smooth surfaces, forces are changing all the time so sloppy suspension will have various side effects. I've just changed my fork springs, rebound springs and correct amount oil. The difference is big and positive Thumbs Up Smile
As recommended by others change your fork oil at the very least and start saving for a nice rear shock. Front springs have a longer lifespan but they get shorter over time, cheap fix is spacers(coins) but they don't cost a bomb to replace. I fitted the progressive type and they suit fine. They feel lively* on very uneven roads at slow speeds, but feel planted and true at higher speeds on the same road
* Lively as in i could feel the road surface, no skipping etc

Pat
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steo
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PostPosted: 01:22 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your bike happen to have a top box, heavy panniers or do you carry any weight on the back of it? The reason I ask is, a while ago I had to sort out a bandit 600 for the local army base which had terrible steering problems.
After I had checked everything, put new tyres on it etc etc, I decided to take the heavy sirens, radio & panniers off it. I brought it back out for a test drive it & it drove perfect. The panniers were too far back over the rear wheel which made it handle like a camel.
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proximity
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

No mate, nothing on the back. Appreciate the suggestion though.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can standard factory fit shocks be rebuilt?

My bike is at 26k, and think my shock might be rather bouncy, although I'm not sure what it should feel like, nothing to compare it to Sad
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
Can standard factory fit shocks be rebuilt?

My bike is at 26k, and think my shock might be rather bouncy, although I'm not sure what it should feel like, nothing to compare it to Sad


I believe in general they can if they have a remote reservoir on a braided hose, because it provides a place from which to recharge the nitrogen in the shock. Piggy back reservoir shocks cannot in general be rebuilt.

To be honest though, the shock rebuild would cost you as much as a brand new shock from Hagon, and something like a Maxton, Ohlins, Nitron or Penske would probably give a noticeable benefit when set up properly to justify the extra costs.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 30 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I can get a rather sexy looking WP shock for about £530 Drooling Worth it or not?

Need to buy a car first though... And forks, just an oil change, or would they need anything else doing? (Like new bushes etc?)
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the grim reaper
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without riding the bike it's different to tell, a fecked rear shock will affect the handling but not in the way you describe and I would expect you to notice the rear end pogo-ing or showing some other traits before the front starts to feel iffy. If it was me, I would do the following:

1. Fork oil and bushes, maybe seals if any signs of leakage
2. Wheel bearing check (although these are usually noisy when failing)
3. Check all suspension settings, front and rear, set your sag levels etc from here https://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_street_bike_suspension_settings/index.html
4. If no improvment, check the bounce on your rear shock and change the settings for compression and rebound for your riding style.
5. If still no change, then think about the shock and buying a new one.

All the other options are cheap as chips compared to the rear shock and how gutted would you be if you spend £500+ on a shock and it makes feck all difference?

Cheers

Grim
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

the grim reaper wrote:
Without riding the bike it's different to tell, a fecked rear shock will affect the handling but not in the way you describe and I would expect you to notice the rear end pogo-ing or showing some other traits before the front starts to feel iffy. If it was me, I would do the following:

1. Fork oil and bushes, maybe seals if any signs of leakage
2. Wheel bearing check (although these are usually noisy when failing)
3. Check all suspension settings, front and rear, set your sag levels etc from here https://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_street_bike_suspension_settings/index.html
4. If no improvment, check the bounce on your rear shock and change the settings for compression and rebound for your riding style.
5. If still no change, then think about the shock and buying a new one.

All the other options are cheap as chips compared to the rear shock and how gutted would you be if you spend £500+ on a shock and it makes feck all difference?

Cheers

Grim


I have heard of plenty of front end issues which have actually been caused by the rear shock. Even if it isn't the cause, the shock will be shagged after 50k miles anyway.
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the grim reaper
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
the grim reaper wrote:
Without riding the bike it's different to tell, a fecked rear shock will affect the handling but not in the way you describe and I would expect you to notice the rear end pogo-ing or showing some other traits before the front starts to feel iffy. If it was me, I would do the following:

1. Fork oil and bushes, maybe seals if any signs of leakage
2. Wheel bearing check (although these are usually noisy when failing)
3. Check all suspension settings, front and rear, set your sag levels etc from here https://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_street_bike_suspension_settings/index.html
4. If no improvment, check the bounce on your rear shock and change the settings for compression and rebound for your riding style.
5. If still no change, then think about the shock and buying a new one.

All the other options are cheap as chips compared to the rear shock and how gutted would you be if you spend £500+ on a shock and it makes feck all difference?

Cheers

Grim


I have heard of plenty of front end issues which have actually been caused by the rear shock. Even if it isn't the cause, the shock will be shagged after 50k miles anyway.


Quite possibly, unless the bloke is a 9 stone type, in which case the shock could well be fine. What I was saying is that to replace a shock for a handling problem that could be something else would be daft. Why replace the most expensive option first before doing a simple fork oil change that could sort it. The shock could then go on for another 10k miles before it needs replacing, giving the OP time to save up for a WP or Ohlins etc.

Cheers

Grim
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Adverts don't always work: Remember that advert, where the army are running across the desert and they have a wounded man on a stretcher. They get to a ravine, the bridge is down and a caption pops up that says, 'What are you thinking?'. I don't know about you but I was thinking, 'Christ, I'm glad I'm not in the f***ing army'.
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proximity
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have serviced the forks yesterday. The internals were all nice and shiny and the oil didnt look too bad. Bearings checked aswell.

I bagged a bargain rear shock off ebay which is not new but certainly a lot newer than mine so we will see what that does.

Im starting to think maybe it could be tyres, i know the front tyre is approaching its wear limit in the next thousand miles or so.
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the grim reaper
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

proximity wrote:
I have serviced the forks yesterday. The internals were all nice and shiny and the oil didnt look too bad. Bearings checked aswell.

I bagged a bargain rear shock off ebay which is not new but certainly a lot newer than mine so we will see what that does.

Im starting to think maybe it could be tyres, i know the front tyre is approaching its wear limit in the next thousand miles or so.


Unless your pressures are way off, I would doubt the 020s would cause the bike to fall in, they are quite a rounded profile, so tend to be stable and on the slow side as far as turn in is concerned.

Have you checked the suspension settings and done your sag setup? Having ridden a ZX6R that had been fiddled with, I can confirm that suspension settings can really screw with a bike's handling.

Cheers

Grim
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Adverts don't always work: Remember that advert, where the army are running across the desert and they have a wounded man on a stretcher. They get to a ravine, the bridge is down and a caption pops up that says, 'What are you thinking?'. I don't know about you but I was thinking, 'Christ, I'm glad I'm not in the f***ing army'.
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Phoenix
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

the grim reaper wrote:
Quite possibly, unless the bloke is a 9 stone type, in which case the shock could well be fine.


Exactly, to just blankly say, replace the shock it's knackered becuase it's done 50k isn't very reasonable. I weigh about 10stone and have done most of the mileage on my blade, it was owned by a guy of similar build before me, at 30K the shock is still absolutely fine.

I changed the fork oil and seals for the sake of it the other week and after doing 4000miles I can't say I noticed any difference, but my bike was heavily loaded, but at least it's been done.

To me your issue sounds like front wheel bearings, they aren't always noisy when they fail or start to fail, I had one collapsed rear wheel bearing once and noticed no noise at all, but the back end felt 'wobbly' which is how I knew.

Also make sure you're checking the head bearings right, they should move side to side smoothly and shouldn't settle in a rut of any kind (often they fall back to centre and sit there), and make sure no fowards and backwards play.

Quick test of the rear shock is if you push down on the back of the bike and it bounces straight back up then it's knackered, it should come back up more slowly...the damping effect. Even if it is gone it's not certain that's what's causing your cornering issue and i'd expect it to affect higher speed cornering not low speed.

First step though is obviously tyres as you mention, if the front tyre is triangular at all or has any kind of shape other than perfectly round to it then it can make it feel crazy, also a heavily square rear tyre make it all of a sudden tip in when you go over the 'edge' of the square bit. Also tyre pressures need checking obviously.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

How slowly should the rear come back up?
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Phoenix
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not particularly slowly but imagine if it was just a spring, that would be a bounce and mean knackered shock. The damping rod prevents the spring just bouncing straight back on it's own.
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swiftb
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a topic which for me is currently screwing my enjoyment of riding. A 2000 Zx6r which im guessing has been messed with supsension wise and hence feels a mess. No matter what settings I dial in it feels harsh, juddery, skips about and generally provides a horrible ride. The rear feels fairly stable and all problems are coming from the front or it certainly feels that way. Im tempted to go the same way as you proximity and replace the whole lot with lesser mileage examples (bikes on 30k). Although one of my compression adjusters is seized so I have no adjustment on that - but I reckon theres a lot more to it than just compression settings as the bike really does feel awful at the min Crying or Very sad
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seized? Sure it's not just been screwed in too much, and jammed itself? Would explain why it's so hard.
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proximity
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well fortunately my bike has no adjustment other than preload so it cant have been messed with.

My front preload settings are set to stock (same as dads bike) but the rear is one notch stiffer, however to sit on it does feel a lot softer (or bouncier) so i think the shock replacement should at least help matters.

I was thinking if my rear end was jacked up that would cause a steeper head angle which i read can cause the bike to fall into corners more, but with my shock possibly being knackered and set at stock i would have thought the rear would be low if anything. The fork height in the yokes is stock.

One reason i hate this handling issue is it causes me to "50 pence" the corners as it falls in too quick and i end up trying to correct it constantly by pushing on the bars quite hard which is one reason bumps cause a bit of a wobble. On my dads bike i have to put hardly any force on the bars as it just coasts round.

Cheers for all the replies guys.
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swiftb
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 01 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
Seized? Sure it's not just been screwed in too much, and jammed itself? Would explain why it's so hard.


yup seized, as in wont screw in or out, even with help from an impact hammer Whistle
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