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is the chain my problem?

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steppen22
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: is the chain my problem? Reply with quote

I've been riding my er5, and it was fun getting up to 85 (on the back of course, as it's not yet restricted) but it still feels a little rough, especially up to 40.

Is my chain likely to be the problem? Thing is, I can't get the slack out of the chain without having it too tight at other points. So I have a slack spot of 2-2.5 inches (rather than 1.4 which it what it should be and what it is at the tightest point after adjustment)

video
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thanks.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuck me.

You only have to watch the first 10 seconds of the video to see the chain practically falling off the sprockets.

That chain is fucked, the links are either seized, dead or dying. 2.5 inches of freeplay is dangerous, bordering on stupidity.

My advice (and probably everyone else's) is to buy a new chain (and new sprockets for good measure) and get them fitted properly, before we get your next thread from your hospital bed where you were out riding your bike, the chain wrapped itself round the rear wheel and it spat you down the road, snapping your left ankle in the process.

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steppen22
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
what??

read that to yourself and then re-write it, so it makes sence!!

the chain should have 1.4 inches of movement along the bottom run. if it does, your chain tension is correct, if it dosnt, its not.

simples Thumbs Up


Fair play.

The point is, it does and it doesn't. If I adjust it to 1.4, I'm still left (at another point in the chain) with 2-2.5 of slack. The chain isn't even, hence the question, is that the problem?
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steppen22
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
fuck me.

You only have to watch the first 10 seconds of the video to see the chain practically falling off the sprockets.

That chain is fucked, the links are either seized, dead or dying. 2.5 inches of freeplay is dangerous, bordering on stupidity.

My advice (and probably everyone else's) is to buy a new chain (and new sprockets for good measure) and get them fitted properly, before we get your next thread from your hospital bed where you were out riding your bike, the chain wrapped itself round the rear wheel and it spat you down the road, snapping your left ankle in the process.

Karma


A little harsh, perhaps, but exactly what I need to know/suspected Thumbs Up

note: I'm not a complete idiot. The bike has hardly been ridden because I was uncertain of the chain.
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steppen22
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
Quote:
The point is, it does and it doesn't. If I adjust it to 1.4, I'm still left (at another point in the chain) with 2-2.5 of slack. The chain isn't even, hence the question, is that the problem?


thats impossible!?!?!?

the bottom run is the longest section of chain between the sprockets, if theres 1.4 there the top run has to have less its impossible not to.

measure it in the middle of the bottom run.


sigh.... I mean, If I adjust it to the spec slack, 1.4, and then roll the wheel, at another point it will be 2.0-2.5.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

steppen22 wrote:
A little harsh, perhaps, but exactly what I need to know/suspected Thumbs Up

note: I'm not a complete idiot. The bike has hardly been ridden because I was uncertain of the chain.


glad to hear it dude. Sorry for being a bit shouty but at least now you know.

Thumbs Up
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Last edited by Timmeh on 12:57 - 28 Jun 2009; edited 1 time in total
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
Quote:
sigh.... I mean, If I adjust it to the spec slack, 1.4, and then roll the wheel, at another point it will be 2.0-2.5.


no, sorry thats impossible. if you set the slack to 1.5 inches along the bottom run, it cannot have any more deflection than 1.5 inches anywhere, as the middle of the bottom run has the greatest deflection, and if youve set that to 1.5 inches no where else will be greater than that.


No it isn't, if the chain isn't adjusted on its tightest spot then the tension can vary considerably due to tight or seized links.
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steppen22
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
Quote:
sigh.... I mean, If I adjust it to the spec slack, 1.4, and then roll the wheel, at another point it will be 2.0-2.5.


no, sorry thats impossible. if you set the slack to 1.5 inches along the bottom run, it cannot have any more deflection than 1.5 inches anywhere, as the middle of the bottom run has the greatest deflection, and if youve set that to 1.5 inches no where else will be greater than that.


Jesus, my bike must be defying the laws of physics, then. I think you're making too much of this mate. Obviously I could find the slackest point, tighten that to 1.5, and then at no point would it exceed 1.5. BUt most of the chain then has zero slack and the wheel is stiff - which doesn't really help me. Hence my post "either too tight or too slack".

Ps: I'm not going to add any more to this substream of my post, as it's silly nitpicking.
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Last edited by steppen22 on 13:08 - 28 Jun 2009; edited 1 time in total
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carlperkins00...
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

get a new chain and sprockets and chain adjusters. if the problem is still there after that, then god help you. Laughing
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boundy
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know what your talking about mate, my new bike had a shagged chain, If you set the slack then turned the wheel the chain would then go really tight or really loose. ie, it would not maintain a consitant about of slack through a full rotation of the chain, this was caused by a few tight links, due to the bike being lest standing for months before I got it. new chain sorted it right out
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boundy
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
ok, erm.. well. if you set the slack to 1.5 inches (or what ever the manual says ) where ive put that red line. then the chain tension will be correct.

simple.


unless the chains fucked, then after you set the tenion and let the chain turn 180 degrees, recheck it and it will be to tight or to loose.

simple Wink
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's probably quite clear by this point, but i'd like to +1 what many have said/implied:

Your chain is probably knackered.

The reason for this is that it sounds like you are describing multiple tight spots on the chain (places where there is far less freeplay), and this is a pretty clear sign of a chain that needs to be replaced. One thing you could try is to check the whole chain for any seized links and work them free with chain lube to see if it helps. But failing that it's urgent new sprocket and chain time (it's recommended you do it all as a set otherwise your new chain will be swiftly ground down by your old sprockets).

I haven't been able to see more than the first 5 seconds of the video because i'm using a machine which really isn't capable of playing it, but from what i saw the chain was bouncing (for want of a better word) way too much. I would expect to see this as that's what was happening when my chain was also knackered.
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salty21
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

some people really shouldn't post replies to problems they clearly know fuck all about, how the hell can tight spots in a chain be impossible???

i sense a cookie hunter Rolling Eyes
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15, you are being a noob Laughing

If there is that much difference between the tightest and loosest part of your chain, it is fucked and must be replaced. Replacing the sprockets is also recommended, as old sprockets will quickly wear a new chain, and vice versa.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 28 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 you spazzer Rolling Eyes
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 08:46 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I understood it, CHR15 was trying to say that if he was measuring the most amount of slack at the bottom, and that was 1.5, then it would be impossible for it to be 2.5 at the top.

That is what you meant, isn't it, CHR15?





Throwing you a lifeline here, bud! Thumbs UpVery Happy

Edit:Oh, and I can't see the vid, but from what steppen has said here, that chain is most definitely fooked. What he describes is the very definition of a knackered chain.
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lightfoot256
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL.

Chains are expensive, I used to go through new chains and sprokets every 3 months or so due to this same problem on one of my older bikes (~£90 a time!!); I think it might have been due to something else causing the issue or maybe just too much hard acceleration away from the lights?

My chain was never even... I used to think it was more to do with really slack points as opposed to tight ones. The key was finding the tightest spot and literally stretching it by extending the wheel while at it's tightest. I had chain issues for the life of the bike and apart from noise and slack issues it was never much of an issue but I kept check of it nearly every day and adjusted as necessary - Admittedly I was clocking up ~150 miles a day but never had any issues or felt any danger; Many might say I was just lucky and it was an accident waiting to happen but ah well, moved up to a newer bike now and never had any issues with the chain and I rag this one even harder. Very Happy.

Somone once told me when you adjust your chain you're supposed to find the tightest spot (put it where the red mark is in your diagrams) and stretch there to ensure the chain stays "even" all the way around. You also need to adjust on a main stand to get the full benefit?


Last edited by lightfoot256 on 09:33 - 29 Jun 2009; edited 1 time in total
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lightfoot256
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a side note; I actually lube the chain nearly _every day_ before I leave for work so maybe that's the real reason why they're lasting longer; before I'd go months without lubing it.

I got some fair priced gear oil (thick) and a nice applicator to squirt precisely between the links (not the rollers where everyone thinks it goes), leave it to soak it, wipe off and ride away - It also keeps the chain looking really nice and clean; If you're chains going rusty then it definitely needs more lube.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 09:41 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Chains wear in allowing some slack. Normally a tiny amount of wear on the pins which adds up (ie, 0.1mm wear on each pin on a 100 link chain means the chain is 1cm longer). Unlikely this wear will be totally even, and then links stick as well, and "appear" to make the chain shorter.

You should adjust the chain to be the right amount of slack at the tightest point. But if there is too much variation then it is time for a new chain.

lightfoot256 wrote:
My chain was never even... I used to think it was more to do with really slack points as opposed to tight ones. The key was finding the tightest spot and literally stretching it by extending the wheel while at it's tightest.


One way to destroy your sprocket carrier bearing and the gearbox output shaft bearing.

All the best

Keith
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lightfoot256
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
One way to destroy your sprocket carrier bearing and the gearbox output shaft bearing.


:-p.

So uneven chain tension is only fixed by working lube into the links?

And so when adjusting your chain should you ensure the top and bottom runs (between the sprokets) both have enough slack to allow the wheel to move back without pulling on the chain... In which case it probably doesn't matter if you do it on a side stand?
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lightfoot256
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
the chain will strech but it should do so evenly.


Even if I'm giving it lots of stick from the lights? I always thought my chain wear was due to lots of hard acceleration putting stress on the chain at set points but I guess the chain doesn't come to rest in the same spot every time and should eventually work out even - although I'm sure pulling wheelies can't be good for chains either - not that I ever pull wheelies but just a thought...
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

lightfoot256 wrote:
So uneven chain tension is only fixed by working lube into the links?


Yes, but if it is that bad then it might well be just time for a new chain anyway.

lightfoot256 wrote:
And so when adjusting your chain should you ensure the top and bottom runs (between the sprokets) both have enough slack to allow the wheel to move back without pulling on the chain... In which case it probably doesn't matter if you do it on a side stand?


Doesn't matter if you do it on the side stand, just that it makes it more difficult to find the tight spot.

A tight spot in the chain will affect the suspension but will also put a major strain on the bearings (and on the chain itself). While a sprocket carrier bearing is cheap and easy to replace, a gearbox output shaft bearing could require a full engine strip to replace.

As the chain goes around the sprockets the distance the links take up is pretty fixed (by the teeth on the sprockets), hence a tight spot from a seized link will probably disappear as that link goes over a sprocket.

All the best

Keith
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lightfoot256
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd always put off adjusting the chain on the GXSR as it only has a side stand but when I came to check (having to roll it half way down my drive a couple inches at a time to check the chain at each point - it was perfect all the way around; But as I said, I lube nearly every day so it seems to be keeping it in check.

I did find a rear paddock stand on ebay for ~£40 but money's tight at the minute so rolling it down the drive is all I have :-p

Thanks for the info. Makes me less worries about ruining my nice even chain :-p
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 29 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

lightfoot256 wrote:
I did find a rear paddock stand on ebay for ~£40 but money's tight at the minute so rolling it down the drive is all I have :-p


Hammers Value Paddock Stand - £1.00;

https://www.planetash.net/bcf/padstand1.jpg
https://www.planetash.net/bcf/padstand2.jpg

Works really well too Thumbs Up Very Happy
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