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Running in a new bike....

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_Will_
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 20 Jul 2009    Post subject: Running in a new bike.... Reply with quote

Ok, I've only run in one new bike before and i knew i wasn't going to be keeping it so wasn't overly fussed about perfect running in.

But this time its different, i am planning to keep for a while so i want it to be nicely run in to last, but at the same time to get its full potential (i've heard of slightly harder running in gives better performance)

So, what do we say to getting this outcome?
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G
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 20 Jul 2009    Post subject: Re: Running in a new bike.... Reply with quote

I did quite a lot of research a while ago.
The method described here: https://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm had pretty much universal good 'reviews' from people that had tried it and was only slated by those that hadn't.
Those same people that hadn't tried it would report 'well I ran my bike in by the book and it's only starting to burn oil at 50k miles say... while the people that had done the harsher running in were reporting no burning of oil at all and no specific other problems either.

I would tend to agree that even if Suzuki decided it was a great idea, if they tried to put the details in the owners manual, the company legal bods would have been all over it before it got near the office deskjet, never mind a proper printing run...
Imagine in the US where you can easily buy a GSXR1000 with very little experience and being told to 'accelerate briskly fully through each gear, then use the engine not the brakes to slow down'!
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 20 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 1150GS and they are known for using oil. I rode it normally from day one, none of this take it easy for the first XXX miles then build up gradually $hit. It runs like a dream starts first time everytime and uses no oil.

As long as the engine isn't put under heavy load ride it as normal(only applies to 4strokes).
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_Will_
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the gist is hammer through the gears for 20 miles, then change oil and filter.......sounds easy....
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hard to convince myself that hard running in is the proper way, yet racing teams do it all the time.

Pat
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_Will_
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, sounds alot better Mr. Green
( i hate soft running in )
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| 2005|Kawasaki Z750s | | 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer |
|| 1999 Cbr1100xx Blackbird ||
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craigs23
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stuck to the manual's recommendation on both instances.
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Rockhopper
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some bikes ( and lots of cars) can log engine data in the ECU so if there was ever a warranty claim it might be possible for them to tell how the bike has been ridden ie if its been run in according to the manual.
My mate at work had a BMW bike of some kind, it went in for some warranty work. When he went to collect it they actually told him off for using the brakes to aggresivly. Apparently the ECU had logged how close the ABS was to operating and from that they could tell how aggressivly he had been using the brakes!

Just something to bear in mind really.
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McJamweasel
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kevin Ash has written a good article on running in for his MCN Techwatch thing, well worth a read.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rockhopper wrote:
My mate at work had a BMW bike of some kind, it went in for some warranty work. When he went to collect it they actually told him off for using the brakes to aggresivly.


If that was me they were telling off I would have told them where to shove their advice and sold the bike in an instant Rolling Eyes
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Paulington
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 21 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always run in my Kart engine very harshly, 10 laps under 8k RPM then 5 laps under 11k RPM then it's done and ready to rev 16k.

Two-stroke though, never ran in a four stroke!
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_Will_
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Re: Running in a new bike.... Reply with quote

G wrote:
I did quite a lot of research a while ago.
The method described here: https://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm had pretty much universal good 'reviews' from people that had tried it and was only slated by those that hadn't.
Those same people that hadn't tried it would report 'well I ran my bike in by the book and it's only starting to burn oil at 50k miles say... while the people that had done the harsher running in were reporting no burning of oil at all and no specific other problems either.

I would tend to agree that even if Suzuki decided it was a great idea, if they tried to put the details in the owners manual, the company legal bods would have been all over it before it got near the office deskjet, never mind a proper printing run...
Imagine in the US where you can easily buy a GSXR1000 with very little experience and being told to 'accelerate briskly fully through each gear, then use the engine not the brakes to slow down'!

Ok so this is what i've been doing, going through the gears low to high revs and decellerating, got it booked in next sat for an oil and filter change, shouldn't blow up right?
{edit - shall i ask for non-synthetic oil?}
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Past -Honda qr50 | 2004 Peugeot Tkr s 50|
| 1996 Yamaha XJ600s Diversion|
| 2005|Kawasaki Z750s | | 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer |
|| 1999 Cbr1100xx Blackbird ||
||| 2000 Kawasaki Zx12R ||| (|2009 Street Triple R |) // 2004 Honda Hornet Streetfighter \\|=| 2000 BMW R1100S |=| ------ My Bikepics page ------
Suffering Bike Withdrawal.

Last edited by _Will_ on 14:40 - 24 Jul 2009; edited 1 time in total
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G
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Re: Running in a new bike.... Reply with quote

Oh dear, now I'll get the blame if it does!
For the record, my 675 was put through the 'dyno run in' method before I got it and is still going fine.
Can't really tell if it's using much oil though because it gets changed pretty regularly as it's a track/race bike.
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rockhopper wrote:
Some bikes ( and lots of cars) can log engine data in the ECU so if there was ever a warranty claim it might be possible for them to tell how the bike has been ridden ie if its been run in according to the manual.
My mate at work had a BMW bike of some kind, it went in for some warranty work. When he went to collect it they actually told him off for using the brakes to aggresivly. Apparently the ECU had logged how close the ABS was to operating and from that they could tell how aggressivly he had been using the brakes!

Just something to bear in mind really.


Exactly what I was going to mention.

I remember reading about a guy who's Fiat car had to go in for warranty work but he had revved it too high rather than taking it easy so the warranty was void.

I would probably run it in using the owners manual recommendation just for that reason, even though I do believe running it in hard is better.
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_Will_
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Re: Running in a new bike.... Reply with quote

G wrote:
Oh dear, now I'll get the blame if it does!
For the record, my 675 was put through the 'dyno run in' method before I got it and is still going fine.
Can't really tell if it's using much oil though because it gets changed pretty regularly as it's a track/race bike.

Indeed i hold you wholly responsible for the outcome Wink

I am the bcf guinea pig.
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Past -Honda qr50 | 2004 Peugeot Tkr s 50|
| 1996 Yamaha XJ600s Diversion|
| 2005|Kawasaki Z750s | | 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer |
|| 1999 Cbr1100xx Blackbird ||
||| 2000 Kawasaki Zx12R ||| (|2009 Street Triple R |) // 2004 Honda Hornet Streetfighter \\|=| 2000 BMW R1100S |=| ------ My Bikepics page ------
Suffering Bike Withdrawal.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the method G posted to my little DRZ. Bike works fine.
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've thought that if you've done just a top-end rebuild then the thing G spoke about was OK, given that things like the crank, journals and gearbox have so many 1000s of miles on them and can be safely thrashed from the second you get the engine running.

If on a new bike with new everything I'd be worried about gaining a few mph at the expense of the rest of the engine.

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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 24 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Hard to convince myself that hard running in is the proper way, yet racing teams do it all the time.

Pat


Race motors don't even get 20 miles under them usually.

It's pretty much just warm it up, take it easy to the end of the pitlane, then blat it.
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Biker101
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 25 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, my bike is nothing like yours but i ran it in by the book, glad i did as it runs sweet as a nut now.

Although i haven't ever tried the hard run in method so cant comment.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 26 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've run in 2 bikes.

On my Z750 which is my weekend bike, it wasn't a problem.

But on the ER6 which is my daily commute it represented a problem.

The 4k first 500 miles is downright dangerous on the motorway, an indicated 56mph, no way 70 in a high gear fair enough, but i'm not riding in with the trucks.
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 26 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Hard to convince myself that hard running in is the proper way, yet racing teams do it all the time.

I think that it is important to remember that a racing engine is not expected to last tens of thousands of miles, unlike a normal road bike.

For me personally I have always followed running in instructions more or less by the book. My current R6 was done like that and has presented no problems whatsoever. What is there to gain by not following the instructions?
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 26 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Howling Terror wrote:
Hard to convince myself that hard running in is the proper way, yet racing teams do it all the time.

I think that it is important to remember that a racing engine is not expected to last tens of thousands of miles, unlike a normal road bike.


Perhaps not, but the race motor gets a fair harder time than any road motor.
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instigator
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 26 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattEMulsion wrote:
Howling Terror wrote:
Hard to convince myself that hard running in is the proper way, yet racing teams do it all the time.

I think that it is important to remember that a racing engine is not expected to last tens of thousands of miles, unlike a normal road bike.

For me personally I have always followed running in instructions more or less by the book. My current R6 was done like that and has presented no problems whatsoever. What is there to gain by not following the instructions?


500-600 miles of normal, enjoyable riding? Laughing
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Biker101
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 26 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawakid wrote:
I've run in 2 bikes.

On my Z750 which is my weekend bike, it wasn't a problem.

But on the ER6 which is my daily commute it represented a problem.

The 4k first 500 miles is downright dangerous on the motorway, an indicated 56mph, no way 70 in a high gear fair enough, but i'm not riding in with the trucks.


Strange that, on mine i stuck to the 4K limit and it would get up to and cruise at about 70 in 6th.
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instigator
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 26 Jul 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Biker101 wrote:
kawakid wrote:
I've run in 2 bikes.

On my Z750 which is my weekend bike, it wasn't a problem.

But on the ER6 which is my daily commute it represented a problem.

The 4k first 500 miles is downright dangerous on the motorway, an indicated 56mph, no way 70 in a high gear fair enough, but i'm not riding in with the trucks.


Strange that, on mine i stuck to the 4K limit and it would get up to and cruise at about 70 in 6th.


You have the F model, he may have the N model which is probably slightly geared towards town use.
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