very quick question...

[carlperkins00...]

anyone know how high the grades on wet & dry sandpaper go up to??

i've got some 800, 1200, 1500, 2000.

just wondering if they go higher than 2000 grit.

cheers, Carl.

[extreme3d]

I've bought 3000 grade paper before but it was for final work on the clear coat on model helicopter canopies. They had severe compound curves and since weight was an issue the paint was applied thin. Anything courser and you risked cutting through the paint on the high spots.

I can't see why you would really need anything over 2000 for general automotive work.

If you do want it though you can get it from most online car specialists e.g. elitecarcare

[phill.c]

if it for polishing mate?
if so 2000 will be fine but you'll need a a drill and polishing kit, otherwise you'll be there forever.
have a look on https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/
phill.c
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CBR400RR the funs started - Honda MTX 125 ongoing project when i can be arsed

[carlperkins00...]

yeah its for polishing. ive used 2000 untill the paper fell apart, but after polishing you can see loads of little scratches.

when you were sanding... did you go round in circles with the paper? or straight lines?

yeah i think i might get some 3000 grit, and a polishing wheel and see what happens.

cheers mate.

[defblade]

[Frost]

After 2000 grit you should really be using a metal polish. Its essentially the grit particals that would be in 3-4000 grit but in a paste.

[carlperkins00...]

ahh.. nah i just..
sanded with 400 grit,
then 800,
1200,
1500,
2000,
then used autosol to polish.

yeah im satisfied with the finish but thought i could make it abit better with finer grit paper.
ill get a buffing wheel and re-try and see what happens.

so your saying it isnt really worth getting 3000 grit?
and when you sanded down.. did you go in a circular motion or straight lines?

cheers for all the help!

[Frost]

Sanding down you are supposed to only sand back and forth in 1 direction. Once you have finished a grit, move tot he next one and sand in a direction at right angles to the one you just did. eg
sand East-West with 400 grit, then sand North-South with 600 grit. Keep going with each grit untill you can no longer see any marks or lines going in the previous direction (East-West).

If you have a shiny surface, but still have marks that won't go away, you probably made too much of a jump in grits at the early stage.

Polish with metal polish in circles as the whole lot should be flat by then and your just trying to make the light scatter more uniform.

[extreme3d]

Always use a circular motion

[Frost]

Then how do you tell when your done with a specific grit?

[carlperkins00...]

im tending to agree with DaFrostyOne.
Although i did go in a circular motion when i polished it the first time.
if you watch overhaulin, Pimp my ride etc.. the bodyshop people always go in straight lines with them big block things.

[garyd]

Very quick answer.........no
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CRF230 all you need

[phill.c]

dafrostyone is right regarding the straight lines, also using it wet is the way forward. if its a flat surface get a block of wood and wrap the paper round it.
ive heard of people getting good finishes with out a polishing kit and just wet and dry.
also use metal polish with a drill and mop and you just cant do it fast enough by hand.
everyone has different ways of doing it and i suppose its trial and error to find out the way you prefer doing it.
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CBR400RR the funs started - Honda MTX 125 ongoing project when i can be arsed

[carlperkins00...]

[tutton]

By the way the bodyshop people are sanding filler down,
not the same as polishing their just shaping body repairs.
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Past: '05 Peugeot XPS '99 Aprillia RS125 '94 FZR600R
Current: '02 ZX636 A1P '51 CCM R30

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

[garyd]

The answer to his post heading of "very quick question"
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CRF230 all you need