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ARRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHH.....FFS...

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Handsome
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: ARRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHH.....FFS... Reply with quote
Short version :...

Suzuki SV 1000 S '54 plate...

Changing the oil last week I had to put a fair bit of weight behind undoing the sump plug bolt as I'm guessing either He-Man owned the bike before me or it was put back in with an air tool, resulting in me taking the thread out of the sump...

I've taken the bolt to places that sell Heli-Coil Kits to try and get it sorted that way, they are suggesting retapping it out to 14mm, but I'm not so sure on how that would hold as I really don't like the thought of it pissing oil out and onto my back wheel while I'm riding thankyouverymuch...

I've sent a request off on Partfinder so I'm awaiting to be told no one has one as the thirty or so breakers I've looked at don't seem to have anything for a 1000, 650 yes but not a 1000, which could be looked as a good way I suppose !...

So whilst I'm staring at a bike that I had to throw nearly three hundred quid at the other week ( Don't ask ) has anyone got any suggestions or can you think of anything I'm overlooking...

Right now I've got the arsehole with biking and THIS FUCKING BIKE, I bought a newer bike as I was looking for reliability and easy maintence ffs, my old Kwak never let me down, so much for new/newer !!!

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tutton
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Tapping it out to a bigger size will be just as safe, as youd obviously be getting a bigger sump plug as well, personally thats what id get done.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
+1 for getting a larger sump plug.
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
What's the likelyhood of it making the sump hole brittle though ( regarding the new thread ) as I believe this plug is just over 13mm anyway ( I'm sure that's what the guy just said ) or am I being a Numpty ?...

Fucking Suzuki and their own Bastard sizes !!!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's very common to strip the threads when un-doing a sump bolts. Suzukis seem to do it for a pastime.

If it had a 12mm sump bolt in it that's stripped you might be lucky enough to just run a 14mm tap through the hole coz the drill size for M14 is 12mm.

It won't make the hole brittle and should work just fine. You could even do it in place.
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Spoke to a place where I get bits done for the bike, they'll do it for me for the price of a drink ( I'll take some PG Tips down with me ), the way he spoke was he'd retap it to 14mm and put another bolt in it, does that sound right or do I still need the helicoil kit and do as suggested by CHRI5 ?...

Sorry for sounding like a right Numpty but I'm still hungover and my brain hurts...
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 15 Aug 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cheers CHRI5, I'll get hold of a 14mm tap then as he couldn't find his and a new bolt and take it down in teh van...

Cheers guys... Thumbs Up...Karma given...
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Right...

I didn't take the bike to the garage for him to do it, seeing as I could do it myself...

I've run a 14mm tap through it and got the right sized bolt, but...

As the bolt goes in there's a lot of play, sideways, untill it reaches the top of the hole then there's no play, but, it will not lock off, it just keeps turning, so...

I've thought about taking the sump off and taking it down a mates-mates place for him to drill it out and retap it for me and make sure a bolt fits, but, I've just phoned a bike shop to find out a price for a new gasket for the sump and he recons it's an engine strip job as he says the sump itself is part of the engine and not an actual removable part ?...Anyone know if that's right as I don't have a manual and I haven't had chance to look at the bike as of yet as you can't see much with the firings on, and to get to the sump ( if it's removable ) I need to take the fairings off and most of the exhaust...

Any ideas ?...

Or Or Or, is it worth locktighting the fucking bolt in and when it comes to oil changes use a syphon pipe ( the one with the squeezey hand pump in the middle ) to take it out from the top ?...

Getting the right arsehole with this now tbh...
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
NSR-AD wrote:
I've just phoned a bike shop to find out a price for a new gasket for the sump and he recons it's an engine strip job as he says the sump itself is part of the engine and not an actual removable part ?


Probably correct. The bike is a V2 so the cases are probably split horizontaly. Just take it out to 16mm and fit a cut down bolt. If you can't get any 16mm copper washers let me know and I'll order you some.

Problem with heli-coiling a sump bolt is oil often seeps past the heli-coil. Time sets are better for this but more expensive.
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cheers Sickpup, I've just had the fairings off and it runs up the casing not along it, so, I'm fixing the bolt in place and when it comes to draining the oil I'll syphon it out, got the right arsehole now...

It's lucky it's not been set fire to...
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
jb weld
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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LeeR
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
I apologise if I'm off target with this comment, but don't forget to part search on DL1000, TL1000 R/S, and Cagiva Navigator as they use the same engine, maybe not necessarily the same sump, but worth a try.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
LeeR wrote:
I apologise if I'm off target with this comment, but don't forget to part search on DL1000, TL1000 R/S, and Cagiva Navigator as they use the same engine, maybe not necessarily the same sump, but worth a try.


Just what I was about to say. I'm 90% sure the engine is the same as the TL1000S, just detuned slightly. The Cagiva uses exactly the same motor, but the bike's very rare anyway.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
LeeR wrote:
I apologise if I'm off target with this comment, but don't forget to part search on DL1000, TL1000 R/S, and Cagiva Navigator as they use the same engine, maybe not necessarily the same sump, but worth a try.


Big_Ham wrote:
Just what I was about to say. I'm 90% sure the engine is the same as the TL1000S, just detuned slightly. The Cagiva uses exactly the same motor, but the bike's very rare anyway.


Which part of 'It's horizontally split cases and has not got a separate sump' is difficult to understand? Wink
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
sickpup wrote:

Which part of 'It's horizontally split cases and has not got a separate sump' is difficult to understand? Wink


probably cheaper to buy a replacement engine than pay to get it rebuilt with a new crankcase half?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
mattsprattuk wrote:
probably cheaper to buy a replacement engine than pay to get it rebuilt with a new crankcase half?


I am so glad you will never even exhale near one of my engines let alone work on one.
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binge
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yea the V-Twin engines split like 2 strokes. So probably not worth stripping the engine down for what could be an easy fix.

I'd do exactly what sickpup said and tap it out to M16. And fit a bigger sump bolt.




Ben
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
CHR15 wrote:
so,assuming you have tapped to 14mm id find a drill / tap size guide find the next size up, ie. drll it with a 15 mm drill, making sure your going in straight and not ovaling the hole.

then get the right size tap, tap it, get a normal bolt cut down to the correct length, copper washer and a tiny, teeny weeny bit of locktight. dont cover it because youl kick yourself when for some reason you do need to take it out.


I've tapped it out to 14mm with a 2.0 pitch, got the right sized bolt and cut it down...As you look into the hole it looks as though it's just thread all the way up ( hardly any gap between said thread and hardly any depth in the thread)...

The next thing to try was as you've suggested, if I can get it off the ground to get clearance to drill it out how much of a problem would it be to get rid of any swarf that goes in the block ?...When I tapped it I just ran some oil through it, all that came out was a few bits tbh though...But...

Call me stupid, if the bolt has freeplay as it's going into the hole due to lack of credible thread could I run a 15mm tap through it without drilling it out seeing as I can wiggle the bolt ( reason I ask is seeing as a tap has a tapered end, would that start enough thread to pull the rest of the tap through, or am I just imagining this would work )...
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
sickpup wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
probably cheaper to buy a replacement engine than pay to get it rebuilt with a new crankcase half?


I am so glad you will never even exhale near one of my engines let alone work on one.


me too.
however, i would travel from miles away to see one of yours burning.
if you were still sat on it.
you stuck up cunt
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
mattsprattuk wrote:
me too.
however, i would travel from miles away to see one of yours burning.
if you were still sat on it.
you stuck up cunt


hmm insults.

Funny thing is you don't even understand what was wrong with your question.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
sickpup wrote:
mattsprattuk wrote:
me too.
however, i would travel from miles away to see one of yours burning.
if you were still sat on it.
you stuck up cunt


hmm insults.

Funny thing is you don't even understand what was wrong with your question.


it was rhetorical
i basically said:
''if you dont want to tap the plug hole to a larger size, its probably cheaper to get a whole new engine than pay some scummy mechanic to strip it and replace half the crank case that has a good thread in''.
just in not so many words.

wheres the un-truth in that? as by reading above, im under the impression the sump is cast into the casings?
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
mattsprattuk wrote:
probably cheaper to buy a replacement engine than pay to get it rebuilt with a new crankcase half?


mattsprattuk wrote:
i didnt ask one.
i basically said:
''if you dont want to tap the plug hole to a larger size, its probably cheaper to get a whole new engine than pay some scummy mechanic to strip it and replace half the crank case that has a good thread in''.
just in not so many words.


You did ask a question and your suggestion makes you a scummy mechanic which is exactly why you will go anywhere near any of my bikes and hopefully no one else's.
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Handsome
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Second hand engine is around 750/800 quid for one with roughly the same milage on, 10'000 miles,...Fucketh Thateth...

I know the easiest way is to redrill and retap it but being a heavy handed bastard I don't want to fuck up a second attempt, then have to do the same again as there's limited space left to do it a third time tbh...But the 15mm as I said above is still bothering me...
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
so a money saving suggestion changes my job does it?

anyway, a quick check on ebay says you can pick one up for £550. then you can break the other for spares.

its only a sump plug though. a new engine is fucking excessive.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 02 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
mattsprattuk wrote:
so a money saving suggestion changes my job does it?


No not understanding that crankcases are machined as a matched pair suggests that unless you close your mouth and start studying or at least listening to people at your work who are trying to teach you you will be bad at any job you do.
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