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Brake Bleeding?

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Wabby
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Brake Bleeding? Reply with quote

I'll make the introduction to this issue quick.

My brakes were garbage so I wanted to make them better! (I mean I could pull them into the bar and keep going)

I ordered some braided lines, and a Master Cylinder rebuild kit (calipers are perfect)

Fitted the lines, rebuilt the M/C - Now it comes to bleeding...

I can get pressure in the system, but I can STILL pull it back to the bar (If I try hard enough). It 'bites' about 1 inch from the bar.

I have bled until their is no bubbles in the fluid, and have also bled the M/C (This made them better, but still by no means good)

I'm pretty sure their is a lock of air somewhere in this fucking system, but how do I get it out?

ITS DRIVING ME UP THE WALL!

Please help Sad
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



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PostPosted: 15:39 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told yesterday by an ex-courier mate of mine, that an easy fix for airlock is to tie the lever as close to the bar as possible, and leave it overnight. I've not tried this, so I can't vouch for it, but it may do the trick.
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lonner
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi mate

dont know your bike but try this

bike on side stand and bars full left lock.

then move leaver about 5mm a few times (this removes air trapped in the MC) Thumbs Up

then if its still a little soft zip tie the leaver for the knight and try again in the morning.

also undo bleed nipple half turn then pull leaver to bar and hold then re-tighten nipple then release leaver.

that should shift the air if any is present in the calipers Thumbs Up

hth


Last edited by lonner on 15:47 - 10 Sep 2009; edited 2 times in total
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andys675
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you push the pistons back in before you started?
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Wabby
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

andys350 wrote:
did you push the pistons back in before you started?


Aye!

This my problem?

Feel like a right numpty if it is!
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tie the lever to the bar overnight.

While its tied up give the brake components a tap with a bit of wood or something soft to help dislodge any trapped air.
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

zzr lon wrote:
also undo bleed nipple half turn then pull leaver to bar and hold then re-tighten nipple then release leaver.


I's better to tie the lever to the bar, and undo the nipple slightly until fluid flows out, and then close it.

Opening the bleed nipple before you apply pressure to the system means that air can get in as easily as the fluid can get out... If you pressurise it by pulling the lever, *then* open the nipple, fluid will be forced out, and air can't get in.
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Last edited by Noxious89123 on 20:33 - 11 Sep 2009; edited 1 time in total
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lonner
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

noxiouse wrote


Oepning the bleed nipple before you apply pressure to the system means that air can get in as easily as the fluid can get out... If you pressurise it by pulling the lever, *then* open the nipple, fluid will be forced out, and air can't get in.[/quote]


really

you don't know what your talking about young man.

air is drawn in when the leaver is released .

so until you actually learn how to do brakes and understan them you should not comment.

ps pushing the pistons back in makes no difference to bleeding.

you get the air out by using the correct technique end of
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FerretFing
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 10 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can thoroughly recommend one of these;

https://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=12360&af=1792

you could probably find it cheaper elsewhere.

it takes a lot of hassle out of it! Just sucks through the fluid slowly with no chance of any air getting in if you do it correctly, no pumping needed.

Also, I`ve heard several mechanics say that leaving it tied up overnight puts unnecessary pressure on the seals Question I have to say it`s worked for me in the past though.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 11 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wabby wrote:
andys350 wrote:
did you push the pistons back in before you started?


Aye!

This my problem?

Feel like a right numpty if it is!


<Sickpup shock mode>Someone actually listened to me on this subject? Shocked <Sickpup shock mode off>

The best thing to do is leave the pistons sticking out a bit, bolt the caliper on, fill it with brake fluid and then attach the brake line. If you do this you are only bleeding the line and not the caliper as well.
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Wabby
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 11 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK.

So I removed the calipers from the forks, and lifted them ABOVE the master cylinder.

Bled and almost immediately got some RIGHT pressure on. I mean as soon as touched, they were SOLID.

Put them back down to forks, forced pads back (was together), and re-fitted to forks.

Pumped back up to get pads to discs - Back to only biting one inch from bar.

Any ideas?

Their is a possibility air got sucked in just before putting them back down to the forks - As the fluid was quiet close to the hole to M/C level.

ARGH!
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 11 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

zzr lon wrote:
noxiouse wrote


Opening the bleed nipple before you apply pressure to the system means that air can get in as easily as the fluid can get out... If you pressurise it by pulling the lever, *then* open the nipple, fluid will be forced out, and air can't get in.


really

you don't know what your talking about young man.

air is drawn in when the leaver is released .

so until you actually learn how to do brakes and understan them you should not comment.

ps pushing the pistons back in makes no difference to bleeding.

you get the air out by using the correct technique end of


Really? Confused

I'd have thought if you open the nipple without any pressure in the lines, then you could end up with a little bit of air getting in...

That's why people always say about attaching a peice of clear plastic tubing to the nipple, and submerging the end of it in brakefluid....
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lonner
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

noxiouse wrote


Really? Confused

I'd have thought if you open the nipple without any pressure in the lines, then you could end up with a little bit of air getting in...

That's why people always say about attaching a piece of clear plastic tubing to the nipple, and submerging the end of it in brakefluid....[/quote]


hi
sorry that was not meant to sound like a bollocking Laughing

that's so you can see the bubbles Thumbs Up and save getting fluid on the painted surfaces.

the pipe submerged in fluid stops air being drawn back when you realese the leaver.

if you think logically the brake system is gravity fed (res is higher than the caliper)so the fluid will come out of the nipple and not the other way Thumbs Up

bleeding brakes is very simple but its amazing how difficult people seem to make it.
the main problem i think is they try to do it quickly and that's what gets the system full of air.

hth
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 11:15 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm doing mine too and having trouble. I can;t get any fluid through the system. It is completely emtpy atm and with fresh fluid in the reservior I'm squeezing the lever but it will not go through the system.

I'm gona try Sickpups filling the caliper up when I have another go.
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cammy mack
Could Be A Chat Bot



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PostPosted: 11:24 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi

this may be off no help whatsoever but my back brake has the same problem. my solution was to push the pistons right in and put 2 wood wedges between the disc and the pads.

i bled it as normal till the pedal was solid then slowly removed the wedges. back brake is now solid.
job done Thumbs Up
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
It is completely emtpy atm and with fresh fluid in the reservior


I find the best way with empty systems is to back fill using a large syringe and a bit of tubing. Actually thats a lie, I used to back fill until I got a vacuum pump.
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Wabby
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
chris-red wrote:
It is completely emtpy atm and with fresh fluid in the reservior


I find the best way with empty systems is to back fill using a large syringe and a bit of tubing. Actually thats a lie, I used to back fill until I got a vacuum pump.


Are these hand vacuum pumps any good then?

Was gonna invest since they are only £40 odd, and it looks like it would be useful for my car and my next bikes clutch...

Sorted the brakes at least.

Bled them above the master cylinder, then tied the lever back to the bar overnight. Gently tapped the calipers with a rubber mallet this morning, and all up the lines. Left for 20 minutes.

I NOW HAVE BRAKES Smile

Still not 'perfect' but definately rideable, and with this weather Cool
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johnnyfaro
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 11 May 2009
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a lot of problems with my brakes recently, turned out that when they had seized (which is why i stripped and rebuilt the calipers) had warped the discs so that when the brake was applied it just bent the disc back rather then gripping on it.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haven't tried the hand pumps, mine works off my compressor. I Find it great for filling the system but I still prefer pressurising the old fashion way.

A great big syringe to suck the fluid through would probably work just as well.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've used the syringe method.
metre or so of b&q clear plastic tubing and a plastic syringe. worked every single time. can completely re bled the entire line in about 5minutes.
also only costs a few quid at the most.
also twisting and bending the brake line helps get rid of this air
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lonner
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:
i've used the syringe method.
metre or so of b&q clear plastic tubing and a plastic syringe. worked every single time. can completely re bled the entire line in about 5minutes.
also only costs a few quid at the most.
also twisting and bending the brake line helps get rid of this air



as above the syringe method is great Thumbs Up
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Wabby
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 25 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where to buy a suitable syringe from?
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lonner
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wabby wrote:
Where to buy a suitable syringe from?



this is a dearer one but very good Thumbs Up

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-Brake-Bleed-Kit-M4-M5-M6-DOT4-Oil-2x-Syringes_W0QQitemZ200382424480QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item2ea7b925a0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 12 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Syringe-50ml-New-Sealed-NO-NEEDLE-art-cake-deco-etc_W0QQitemZ290348556603QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_HomeGarden_Garden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN?hash=item439a1f613b&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Just search for '100ml syringe' if you want it bigger, costs about £4.
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