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Stubborn (VERY) Engine Bolt

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RichP
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Stubborn (VERY) Engine Bolt Reply with quote

Hey,
Trying to take out one of the engine bolts on my NSR 125 did this to my (good quality) socket:
https://img5.imageshack.us/img5/91/photoea.jpg

That was in combination with a 6'2'' scaffolding pole!

I don't think brute force will work in this case!
(Yes i did give it lots of penetrating oil(
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FerretFing
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one of these; (cheapest I could see it)

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CORDLESS-IMPACT-WRENCH-CP2400-SEALEY-24V-1-2-FREEPOST_W0QQitemZ350211075460QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item518a34ed84&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

& I`d use hex impact sockets similar to this;

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEWSOME-PROFESSIONAL-8-pce-IMPACT-HEX-KEY-SET-1-2-DR_W0QQitemZ250497861549QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item3a52d607ad&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Not let me down yet Thumbs Up

Impact wrench is a very handy tool & well worth the money imo.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I presume this is a bolt holding the engine to the frame?

You've taken the nut off the other end (if present)?

Sometimes putting a jack under the engine to take the weight off the bolt can help matters.

Lots of penetrating oil. Also consider using some freeze and release spray, maybe some heat applied to the outside if it can be done safely.

As ngsavfc says, impact wrenches are fantastic bits of kit.
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steveh
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

impact driver,
heat it up?
Drill it (last resort)
Longer scaff bar Very Happy
windy gun?


is the nut resessed into the castings of the engine? or is it in plain sight?
Thinking alould, but perhaps trying to grind the nut off, or just cut it off flush then spin it out (can recall what the mounts are like)


steve.
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RichP
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the responses so far guys!
Longer bar, its currently almost as long as me!

While i appreciate the effort finding it im certainly not buying a £105 tool to remove one bolt!

The bolt goes into a threaded inaccessible fastner at the other side, i've never found impact drivers that useful on anything this big...
(Unless you've got a much bigger one than mine!)

I'll give it a good soak over night, and try some heat tomorrow. (Probably set fire to the oil lol)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bet your local car garage has an air impact wrench. Probably not the fitting but if you bought an impact socket and took the bike round they'd probably give you a go of it.

Car sump plug keys are often more robust than the purpose built allen sockets,usually made in one piece.
https://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Images/DB_Detail/_27581_140194.jpg

EDIT: Also try giving it a bit of a smack with a hammer (put the socket in and give it a few sharp taps). This can break the layer of corrosion between the threads. As a mechanic friend of mine says "If it won't come out, give it a clout.". Obviously being suitably careful if it is screwed into the alloy engine casing, less careful if it's going into steel.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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steveh
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

aye, be carefull if your braying it, not to break the ally, also, dont get it too hot as it will split!


tbh, im supprised it didnt chew the bolt up before bending the allen key!


Get some heat on it, get a big bar on it, and get some one to hit it at the same time Thumbs Up
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RichP
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers again!
I've tried the hammer tricks already lol! If you can't fit it... Hit it, and when in doubt give it a clout! (Although not in this case)

I'm going to take that socketed allen key back (its an 8mm btw) because its got a lifetime guarantee i think! Very Happy

If i can't get it out eventually i'll (wheel) it to the local bike shop and get them to drop the bastard!

Edit: Tried the bar and hitting it as well already lol, im guessing its heat or nothing...
Wish i knew where it was sezing as its a very long bolt!
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

penetrating oil, leave it over night, then try again, preferably with an impact driver

you know the impact drivers they use on F1 and such? not the one you hammer. if you can borrow one that is.
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RichP
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately can't afford one of those! Not for one bolt!

I'm gonna get some decent penetrating oil instead of this evapapourating 3 in 1 and WD40 stuff.

Had another go this time with heat, not sure if to heat the bolt (surely would make it tighter?) or the area it goes into, tried both alternatively; still no luck!

(Admittedly the butane powered mini blowtorch normally used for browning puddings probably isn't man enough haha!)
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

the only trouble with heating and cooling is that


-you can make the metal expand which will squeeze even tighter on the bolt

-you can cause stress points in the metal and make it weak.

the second point probably doesnt matter so much in most places and im not sure how much heat it take to affect metal in terms of strength.

but if you can borrow and impact wrench or driver it would be best i reckon. ive never used heat to remove anything stobburn, not even the bolts that break tools lol
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RichP
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll inquire lol!
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-4193-13-Piece--half--Impact-Driver-Set.html
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a punch down the hexagon and hit it with a decent sized hammer hard a few times. Percusive shock is good at moving bolts.
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RichP
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
https://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-4193-13-Piece--half--Impact-Driver-Set.html


Looks a good price but i reckon it will take more than that to shift it! Very Happy
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a proper british made impact wrench (air powered) for £2 off a scrap heap. It was full of water, cleaned it out an repacked with grease and it works brilliantly.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 17 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

steven_191 wrote:
the only trouble with heating and cooling is that


-you can make the metal expand which will squeeze even tighter on the bolt

-you can cause stress points in the metal and make it weak.



Thing is. Aluminium alloy expands more rapidly than steel. So if you have a steel bolt stuck in an alloy casting, heating makes it more loose.

The degree of heat you apply, and the fact you aren't cooling it rapidly shouldn't cause a problem for the alloy. If anything it would relieve internal stresses right up to the point where it melts. You wont get enough heat through the alloy to bother the steel bolt.

Heat or cold though, you're trying to "shock" the threads apart that have welded themselves together with corrosion, the different rates of expansion and contraction are what does this.

Do give the freeze and release spray a go, it rapidly cools the metal it hits and contains a penetrating oil that gets into the gap created by the cooling.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 01:41 - 17 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paint stripping gun, full power, keep heating it up.
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RichP
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, bolt head is now officially stripped. Sad

But on looking closer it looks like it goes through the frame... Then the engine and out through the other side of the frame, it looks like its not a threaded plate but there should be another bolt.
(Left missing by the previous owner seemingly lol)

So in theory if it weren't seized the bolt should slide out, i've now tried heat, penetrating fluid, hammering it out... All sorts.

Since i'm scrapping that bottom end I may just get an angle grinder and chop into the bottom end.

Other than that i'm at a loss.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Extreme cold?

Cold makes metals contract. Maybe the metal that's stuck will contract faster than the hole, just like the hole is supposed to expand faster with heat. Just trying to think outside the box.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

RichP wrote:

So in theory if it weren't seized the bolt should slide out, i've now tried heat, penetrating fluid, hammering it out... All sorts.

Since i'm scrapping that bottom end I may just get an angle grinder and chop into the bottom end.

Other than that i'm at a loss.


I know I harp on about them but.....LEFT HAND DRILL BITS FTW!
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RichP
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
RichP wrote:

So in theory if it weren't seized the bolt should slide out, i've now tried heat, penetrating fluid, hammering it out... All sorts.

Since i'm scrapping that bottom end I may just get an angle grinder and chop into the bottom end.

Other than that i'm at a loss.


I know I harp on about them but.....LEFT HAND DRILL BITS FTW!


Why a left hand drill bit..?
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

well you drill out the bolt with a right hand bit it turns clockwise ie tightening the bolt as you drill it out.

With a left hand twist bolt, you drill the bolt out with the bit turning anticlockwise ie undo. So usually you get 1/4 way into drilling out the bolt and the battering and turning of the bolt just undoes it.

This i found out tryin to remove seized exhaust studs on an old GSXR1100-the bolts hadnt been removed in over 15 years and been covered in crap.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Which bolt is it? Whereabouts is it on the frame? Just so I can try and find a piccy to see where it goes.

All the best

Keith
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 18 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

RichP wrote:
Right, bolt head is now officially stripped. Sad

But on looking closer it looks like it goes through the frame... Then the engine and out through the other side of the frame, it looks like its not a threaded plate but there should be another bolt.
(Left missing by the previous owner seemingly lol)

So in theory if it weren't seized the bolt should slide out, i've now tried heat, penetrating fluid, hammering it out... All sorts.

Since i'm scrapping that bottom end I may just get an angle grinder and chop into the bottom end.

Other than that i'm at a loss.
I think a picture of both sides of the bike and what bike it is would help here. It must have a nut the other side if it's an engine mount??
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